DIY Chiller Question for HVAC Experts

[GlassReef]

I've had pretty bad luck with chillers offered for the reefing hobby. Prices are very high and performance is less than stellar. I've had two go bad on me shortly after the warranty ended. I really don't want to spend another $1000 on a third chiller.

A few years ago I purchased a PVC enclosed Titanium coil evaporator like this one:

The coil has never been used. It's rated at 1HP. Am I correct that a 9000 btu condenser would match it?

I have a chance to purchase a new 9000 btu ductless (split) system condenser made by Trane:

My question is: would this idea work (well?) and what should I expect to pay for the attachment of the coil to the condenser by an hvac shop?

Thanks!

 

[BFG]

What is the tank dimension ? This setup is good for tank larger than a 120 gallon . I am not a HVAC guy , just an end user .

 

[GlassReef]

The tank 96" x 36" x 24", about 375 gals. Total, with sump, etc is 450 gals.

 

[OzIA]

I'm not sure how the exchanger works but those split ductless compressors need to be able to "talk" to the indoor unit. They don't speak the same languages either. I tried to hook different branded compressor / indoor unit and and they wouldn't communicate. If anyone needs a Lenox 12K indoor unit, I have one cheap.

 

[GlassReef]

I assumed that, because I just need to control power to the condenser, it would be a matter of using my Ranco heating & cooling thermostat.

 

[OzIA]

On the split system I installed, the power from each indoor unit came from the compressor (which had power all the time) but there was also a single comm wire for each indoor unit. But this wasn't a signal to turn on or off it was some sort of communication (RS485 variant maybe) where each indoor units would communicate demand through their internal thermostats. This told the outdoor unit to open valves and possible how fast to run. Mine wasn't a single but a four valve unit so that may be a different animal.

Are you sure your thermostat will communicate with it?

The compressor will come filled with A410. It's a matter of connecting the tubing and pulling a vacuum, then opening the valves on the outdoor unit to release the gas into the system.

 

[GlassReef]

OzIA - thanks for that info. Mine's a single valve. I'm hoping that removal of the signal wire will not effect the basic function of the condenser.

 

[OzIA]

Thinking about this some more and I am going to take a pretty firm position, that even on a single valve system, you will need something to communicate to the compressor, rather than just turn it on and off. These things are also capable of heat so a single, "on - off" control wouldn't tell the unit that you needed heat or cooling.

You might be able to get some better info on a HVAC web message board but I went down that same path trying to get someone to tell me how to make my 12K Lennox unit talk to the Air-Con outdoor unit and couldn't get any guidance.

At a minimum, you may need the indoor control board for a Trane to make it work.

 

[GlassReef]

Thinking about this some more and I am going to take a pretty firm position, that even on a single valve system, you will need something to communicate to the compressor, rather than just turn it on and off. These things are also capable of heat so a single, "on - off" control wouldn't tell the unit that you needed heat or cooling.

You might be able to get some better info on a HVAC web message board but I went down that same path trying to get someone to tell me how to make my 12K Lennox unit talk to the Air-Con outdoor unit and couldn't get any guidance.

At a minimum, you may need the indoor control board for a Trane to make it work.

Thanks. You've convinced me that this won't be as easy as I'd imagined. I guess I'll just have to bite the bullet and go to an HVAC shop.

 

[SBV]

I own my own company and what you are considering will not work. Not sure if that titanium coil has even a metering device. 1hp does not mean 1ton (btu’s). You need to find the matched condenser to that evap coil you got.

 

[OzIA]

Tom,
I wouldn't give up completely. Maybe SBV can give you some more guidance on what sounds like an interesting project, that might apply to others.

 

[SBV]

See if you can get a btu rating off of it. Need to know what kind of refrigerant it’s manufactured for as well. Need to know what king of gph minimum of h20 it has to flow across the coil as well. Um boy, all kinds of goodies with hvac. 25 years in and I love every minute of it.

 

[BFG]

I am using this but could not explain how it work as its not my field of expertise . There are reefers here in singapore who are using this instead of off the shelf aquarium chiller as this unit heat output is lower than an aquarium chiller and it chill down quite fast and stay off longer . If it rains heavily , you would experience 3hr off time .

The titanium coil is way better than the copper coil coated with rubber but from what I know , the merging point between the copper pipe to titanium coil is the weakest link , done properly , it will last a long time , haphazardly , you will see your refrigerant gas escaping .

 

[GlassReef]

SBV - The data I have for the unit (pictured in first post, above):

Trane 4TXK8509A10N0B
9,000 BTU Outdoor Condenser
R-410A

I have no specs concerning minimum flow. The coil has 3/4" input and output connectors for water flow. In respect to BFG comment about leakage, the connectors emerging from the coil are copper (brass?) so the titanium/copper splice has been internally during manufacturing.

The coil only says 1 HP.


BFG - Thanks for your input. I lived in Singapore during the early 80's (yes I'm that old ) and I remember that the reefkeepers there were always at the forefront of new and interesting developments in the hobby.

 

[BFG]

Glassreef , other than the 2 picture you provided , you need an external controller , preferably with an external temperature probe to control the air con compressor . Thats how mine is done . It will switch off and on by the temperature you set it to .