DIY Glass Lessons Learned

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There's a lot of info on working with acrylic, less so for glass. Acrylic is an interesting material with a lot of flexiblity in shaping and cutting. Unfortunately, its harder to get than glass.

After a few projects with acrylic (sumps mostly) I figured its time to try glass. The end goal is a nano tank and sump. As a test run I'm making the basic sump, roughly 1' on each side. The tank will be a more atypical size, around 15"w x 15"t x 12"d.

I'm writing this in order to provide my lessons learned, definitely not from the "best way" since I am new to working with glass.

  • Photo 1: Here's where I'm today. Putting the last pane on. Using 90° clamps. These helped a lot to keep the panels aligned and fixed in place. However, this silicone (Momentiv RTV100 series) is unlike any silicone I've used before and is TOUGH. Point is that I'm not even sure I would need the brackets since the surface tension and viscosity (thicker than silicones from Home Depot) meant the panels stayed where I put them. But the same could probably not be said for larger tanks.

    Also, you can see where the silicone oozes out of the seam. After drying this cuts off with a razor cleanly.

  • Photo 2: The RTV 100 silicone. Again, tough stuff. If you look in the 1st photo you may be able to see a small piece of acrylic sticking up....using this as a test piece to pull off and see if I could lift the whole tank with. If your going to build a tank don't mess with off the shelf stuff from big box stores.

  • Photos 3 & 4: For the first pieces, bottom/back/sides, I taped everything up with blue painters tape first. Then I "keyed" the corners with a painters mixing "knife". You can see the nice bevel in the 3rd photo. Since the extra silicone was able to come off with a brand new razor, I took a gamble and left the blue tape off for the last panel. As you can see in the 3rd photo little overflow is left over to razor off.


    Lastly, learn from my mistake....when I ordered the glass the shop said the edge would be ground flat. Well, ground is not the same as polished. But I wouldn't say the edge was even flat. Not having a flat edge means the two pieces of glass don't make a nice, flat 90° joint. Needless to say, I'm going to the other glass shop in my area that offers flat edge POLISHED for only $1 more per sf.

Regarding the gap between glass, I was going to try to use toothpicks as spacers. The problem is that your have a void left after removing the toothpicks. Instead I relied on feel and look to approximate a gap of ~1/16". Since this silicone is so thick, you have a certain amount of play. I'm not sure if this is how the pros do it or not. I suspect that with time and experience spacers are not needed and they simply go by feel.

My biggest concern with glass is strength. Acrylic gives you that super strong chemical bond at the joint. When you break a sample piece of acrylic the pieces break before the joint does. With glass, basic silicone just doesn't seem that strong. But again, this RTV stuff is different.

Injecting some math to make me fill better about strength, a 1 cubic foot tank holds ~7.5 gallons. 7.5 gallons holds ~60 lbs of water. There's 8 seams where the glass meets. 8 seams x 12" = 96" linear inches. 60 lbs \ 96" = .6 lbs / linear inch. Thats nothing! Doing a test pull on the 4" piece of acrylic I don't think it will have any problem lifting the empty tank with about 10lbs of glass. When everything's dry I'll give it a final test. But my point is as far as I can tell this stuff is STRONG.

But understand that as a tank gets bigger, there's more force in each seam. In other words, the math I did above doesn't scale up proportionately.

In the end, I'm not sure if I'm going to make the nano display tank out of acrylic or glass. Both have their benefits. Some of the online places that sell acrylic want a lot, like $25/sf. Crazy. Glass, otoh, is nice because once everything is glued up and dried your done. Acrylic requires you to clean and sand and polish the ends.

Hope this helps anyone thinking of jumping into a glass build!
 

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On your pressue math, the force of water pressure is not distributed evenly such that you can just divide the mass of water by the seam length. The force is zero at the surface and maximum at depth, the same effect that makes siphoning work. This probably comes into play more with larger tanks.
 
On your pressue math, the force of water pressure is not distributed evenly such that you can just divide the mass of water by the seam length. The force is zero at the surface and maximum at depth, the same effect that makes siphoning work. This probably comes into play more with larger tanks.

Agreed, I would like to see the formula for calculating force at 0" vs. 12" deep. Is the force linear or exponential?
 
Cool post, PLEASE post up results after you do a wet test w/ it!

Will do. Worth mentioning that on other threads I've read recomendations to let the silicone cure for a week or two. FWIW, the tube I have says it cures in 24 hours but it may take longer depending on the conditions.
 
Agreed, I would like to see the formula for calculating force at 0" vs. 12" deep. Is the force linear or exponential?

For constant area, weight increases linearly with depth over aquarium ranges. It's just the density times the volume.
 
did you just research a glass place local to you to get the glass? how did you get it cut to the sizes you needed? diy or had someone else do it? would you mind letting us know how much the project cost total so far? im tired of tanks with the same footprints ive been dealing with since i was 8 yrs old and i dont want to pay for someone to build it for me when im sure i can get it done myself. thanks
 
Agreed, I would like to see the formula for calculating force at 0" vs. 12" deep. Is the force linear or exponential?

Force is linear. The pressure isn't so much because there's water touching glass, but from the weight of all the water on top of it squeezing down, the only place for it to go is sideways.

In general for a fluid
Pressure = density of fluid x height of that fluid x acceleration due to gravity

So at 0" pressure = air pressure, so effectively zero.

at 12" pressure = 1025 kg/m^3 x (12 inches / 39.37 inches/meter ) x 9.8 N/kg
=3061 Newtons per meter² (had to revert to metric because it's the only thing I can recall :D)
4.45 newtons per pound
1550 square inches per square meter

3061 / (4.45 x 1550 ) or about .44 PSI.


If you're curious about the entire force over the whole pane, simply integrate with respect to height from 0 to 12"
 
I called around to a few glass places. You want one that will do a flat edge polish. Ask that they cut and polish glass in-house, if not it will probably be more cause they send it out. Not everyone can polish edges in house. Also ask their tolerence, or room for error. I was quoted 1/16". That was fine for my small sump. For big tanks you may be able to get away with 1/8". This means if you ask for a piece 48 1/8" long it may be 48 1/4". Or just 48". *Check your pieces before leaving and reject ones that are outside of this tolerence*.

I paid around $7/sf. for regular 1/4" plate glass. Some places have a minimum 1sf charge per piece. The new place I tried quoted me $7/sf over the phone, then when I picked the pieces up jacked the price up because they "usually charge for a minimum 3sf no matter how small the piece is". Needless to say the price came down. And I'll go back to the glass company I've used before (I wanted to try the newer company just to see).

Before you go whole hog on a larger tank, do a test run for a smaller tank. That way you can work out the kinks, especially when working with glass companies.
 
I would NOT deal with a glass shop that wouldnt give me anything less than 1/32'' Tolerance. They are out there.

1/16'' is way out of line to build a glass tank. You could end up with a piece of glass way out of square, and the 1/16'' space could turn into 3/16' space.
 
all of this (total weight)/(total seam length) math is totally bogus. What if you sliced the whole thing in half and then siliconed it back, to create more seams. would it be stronger?

just stick with the well-known construction rules.
 
I sympathize! Things got faster when I found a little utility called convert.exe to help. Though it doesn't do true mass in imperial units; no kg to slugs conversion for example...:bigeyes:

I know of this thing called Google, which so far, has been able to convert anything i throw at it, as long as you input items correctly.

Like inputting 80kg to slugs displays 80 kilograms = 5.48174127 slugs. Never heard of slugs before, but google knows it :D.


It also calculated things to whatever units its supposed to come out as if you input numbers with units... Like: (5 lbs + 1 slug) * 3 +2kg to stone = (((5 pounds) + (1 slug)) * 3) + (2 kg) = 8.28081364 stone
 
I know of this thing called Google, which so far, has been able to convert anything i throw at it, as long as you input items correctly.

Cool. :idea:

I'm an Old Fart, so I sometimes forget to think of things like Google. I had to learn of slugs (the mass which results in an acceleration of 1 ft/sec^2 under a force of 1 lb) when I attended university in the Pleistocene.
 
I made a 24g frag tank out of glass and RTV silicone. I worked out real well and I may try something bigger some day soon.

Having a 'spacer' in the silicone isn't a big deal in small tanks as the glass isn't that heavy and if you don't push or squeeze it too much, you're OK. But with bigger tanks and therefore heavy sheets of glass, the pro builder I know uses very small silicon 'dots' every 4"-6" and then runs the bead of silicone over them. I've also read where somebody used monofilament fishing line. They ran the bead of silicone, took a lenght of monofilament and stretched it out tight and laid it in the silicone bead. The silicone holds it in place while you set the glass on and then cut the ends off with a razor blade. Sounds like a workable alternative to me.

BTW, I used the 90 degree corner clamps like you did, and so does the pro builder I know. They also build custom jigs to hold the bottom square and expandable clamps or posts to push the glass from the inside of the tank so it is firmly up against the jig on the outside. And my local glass cutter had mine sheets perfectly square (less than 1/32" tolerance). A 24" x 18" x 12" frag tank was $100 for glass and RTV silicone. My friend paid over $300 for a 24" x 24" x 12" frag tank... I'm just sayin'
 
I know of this thing called Google, which so far, has been able to convert anything i throw at it, as long as you input items correctly.......

Very true. Nice thing now with google is after you get your initial conversion, when google displays the results it provides a little interactive app where you can use drop downs to change the units.

For the uninitiated, go to google and type "1000 cubic inches to gallons".
 
I made a 24g frag tank out of glass and RTV silicone. I worked out real well and I may try something bigger some day soon.

Having a 'spacer' in the silicone isn't a big deal in small tanks as the glass isn't that heavy and if you don't push or squeeze it too much, you're OK. But with bigger tanks and therefore heavy sheets of glass, the pro builder I know uses very small silicon 'dots' every 4"-6" and then runs the bead of silicone over them. I've also read where somebody used monofilament fishing line. They ran the bead of silicone, took a lenght of monofilament and stretched it out tight and laid it in the silicone bead. The silicone holds it in place while you set the glass on and then cut the ends off with a razor blade. Sounds like a workable alternative to me.

BTW, I used the 90 degree corner clamps like you did, and so does the pro builder I know. They also build custom jigs to hold the bottom square and expandable clamps or posts to push the glass from the inside of the tank so it is firmly up against the jig on the outside. And my local glass cutter had mine sheets perfectly square (less than 1/32" tolerance). A 24" x 18" x 12" frag tank was $100 for glass and RTV silicone. My friend paid over $300 for a 24" x 24" x 12" frag tank... I'm just sayin'

Yeah I have some wood jigs I made out of plywood for past acrylic projects. You hold them to a piece of glass or acrylic with a spring clamp to hold the piece at a perfect 90° angle. Notice the slight bevel on the corner, so there's room for the silicone. Handy to have.

Nice tip with the fishing line. I wonder if it would weaken the joint too much with 1/4" glass?

Did he buy the silicone dots, or put them on and let them dry first?
 

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