DIY Kalk Reactor

Warnberg

New member
For all of you that have been waiting for me to post this here it is:

DIY Kalk reactor

Parts and Tools List:
1) (1) 18” piece of sch 40 PVC 6”
2) (1) 6” end cap
3) (1) 6” coupler
4) (1) 6” to 4” reducer
5) (1) 4” to 2” reducer
6) (1) 2” inspection/cleanout with cap
7) (1) 12” section of sch 40 PVC ½ inch
8) (1) ½ inch slip/slip 90 elbow
9) (2) ½ inch slip/thread 90 elbow
10) (2) ½ X ½ Nylon Barb to MIP Adapter (you may also use ½ to 3/8ths)
11) (2) small hose clamps
12) 12” of clear vinyl tubing to fit above nylon barb
13) (2) ¼ X ¼ MIP Quick connect straight valve
14) (1) small Can of clear PVC cement
15) (1) roll of Teflon tape
16) (1) ¼ inch 18 NPT Pipe Tap
17) (1) 13/16 butterfly drill bit
18) (1) 7/16 drill bit
19) Shop rag
20) Drill
21) Hammer
22) Marker
23) Mag 2 pump
24) Syringe (used one from an old test kit)

First thing you want to do is make sure all your parts are clean, glue the end cap and the coupler to your pipe. Do not be shy with the glue otherwise you will have leaks (like I did). Just above the end cap drill a 13/16th’s hole and just below the coupler and offset about 2 or 3 inches drill another 13/16th’s hole. Cut 1 piece of ½ inch pvc long enough so that it ends approximately center of the inside and has about 2 inches outside of the main pipe (approx 5 inches in length), cut another piece so that it just goes inside and sticks out about 2 inches (approx 2.5 inches in length). The long piece goes on the bottom hole(next to the end cap) and the short piece go’s in the top hole (next to the coupler). Glue these in place and glue the 90 ½ slip/slip on the inside of the long piece of ½ inch pvc so that it points straight down.***(See pictures)***


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to be continued......
 
Part 2

I let all the previous work dry before I continued for 24 hours. Now it’s time to install the lower ¼ X ¼ MIP Quick connect straight valve. Approx ¼ of the way around the bottom you are going to drill a 7/16’s hole and tap it, you are going to go thru the end cap and the pvc (remember this because it will try to jump around), make sure the hole is clean and burr free. After you drill the hole take your Pipe tap and tap the hole, use a half turn in ¼ turn out until you get it completely tapped. Then wrap the ¼ X ¼ MIP Quick connect straight valve with Teflon tape and install it.

Next clean out all the cut pvc shavings from inside. Then install the 6” to 4” reducer and the 4” to 2” reducer in the top coupler, again don’t be shy with the glue. Now test fit the two ½ inch slip/thread 90 elbow on the upper and lower ½ pvc. Get everything setup so that the exit port of the Mag 2 will screw directly into the lower ½ inch slip/thread 90 elbow and the intake of the mag 2 will be able to connect to the upper 90 with the barbed connectors and the vinyl hose. ***(See Pics)*** When you are comfortable about placement and alignment glue the 90’s in place.

I let this assembly dry for 24 hours again and then installed the mag 2 pump using Teflon tape anywhere there are threaded joints.

I then glued the 2” inspection/cleanout with cap in the top (again use plenty of glue). Remove the inspection cap and drill a 7/16ths hole in the top (use something to hold it, a pair of channel locks worked well for me) and tap this hole with the ¼ inch 18 NPT Pipe Tap and install the other ¼ X ¼ MIP Quick connect straight valve.

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You will notice that my top has a differnt connector than the valve, thats because it was installed and swug around while I was drilling bottom hole and broke mine, this was installed just for the leak test and will be changed out.
 
Part 3

How make sure everything is dry, hooked up and ready to go. Use Teflon tape for the inspection cap install. I would suggest a leak test at this point to make sure you have no leaks. I had a few leaks last night so I used the syringe to put glue in all the areas that leaked (my assembly is under pressure) and left it over night to dry. I will be testing again today and hopefully installing it later today.

I am using a basic timer the mix the kalk powder once a night for 10 minutes. I am using a Intermatic 7 day heavy duty digital plug-in timer that I got from Westside Wholesale (approx 24.00 with shipping)
 
It looks like the Mag 2 is a 250gph flow, so I'm guessing that as long as the connections fit we can use any pump that is close to the same flow. Right?
 
Thank you, can't say I came up with the idea on my own but I did make some modifications to the original design. The original design used all 4 inch PVC but it was 36 inches tall, I wanted the same water capacity but it had to fit under my tank (another piece of equiptment outside it and the wife would kill me) so that is why I elected to use 6 inch. According to my calculations this holds about 2 gallons of water.

(pi) X (r squared) X height = area cubic inches divide that by 231 (approx area of a gallon of water) gives you 2.2

Yes, I just wanted something small, external and enough flow to mix the stuff on the bottom after it settles.
 
That sounds great. It's now your design Warnberg - you made it more usable. In computer terms this means you are now married to it :D
 
A suggestion on the mixing. The idea is to have it NOT mix while water is running through. You want the water saturated with lime, but you don't want the lime powder in the tank. I use a timer on my topoff that is off when the mixer/stirrer is on. I've always stirred every 8 hours, and have the topoff pump off for at least 30 minutes after the stir cycle.
I'm going to build one!!!
 
You can get all the 6" sch 40 PVC stuff from Lowes (the one on waters and the toll freeway I think it is has it all). I did not have to buy a 10 foot section of 6" pipe, checkinhawk graciously found me a piece of scrap and I got it from him.

Zackly on the timer mixing... that is why my timer is set to go off at 3 am and the water exit is in the very top of the reactor.
 
I know this is probably a stupid question but I'll ask because I don't know. What is a butterfly drill bit? I've searched on the internet but still not clear as to what the difference is between "butterfly" and a normal bit. Also, I've never used a tap tool (Always wanted to) with the tap is there like a bar that fits into the tapping bit? Just need to know what I'll have to purchase as far as tools go. thanks Dave this is great.
 
Hey mflamb, If you would like I'd go in with you as far as purchasing 6" PVC. I think it comes in 10' or so length and maybe a few of us could get together and split the cost.
 
I'm game. Let's get together on the stuff and have a building party. I have all the tools. A butterfly bit is a wood cutting bit, also called a spade bit, or a paddle bit.
 
Ohhhh - ok. I game for the party, it would be great to get everyone together. I'm new at all this but willing to try and with the proper tools - doing it right. I really like DIY not just because it save $ but the knowledge from doing it. I think you really learn how it works inside and out.
 
lets buy acrylic tube and make them.i can check out the price pn it.we would have to buy 10ft but if we spilt that 3 or 4 ways it shouldnt cost too much.
 
Acrylic tubing would look nice and I don't think it would cost much at all after splitting the cost. Sounds good to me.
 
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