DIY LED driver for reef lighting

[martin_hawk]

Well the board isn't routed and some of the packages look really weird (Cin and L1). But otherwise it looks OK as far as matching the references in the datasheet.

Are you looking for help routing? Or with component selection? Or anything else specific?

thank you for your attention

I've already made my component selection. As for the packages for Cin and L1 is a custom package I made. The component name for Cin is NACVF330M200V16X17TR13T2F (NIC's) and the component name for L1 is IH15BQ500K (Vishay's - since the driver will need a >10Amp rated inductor).

I need help for checking the schematic, since it kind of different from the suggested schematics on the datasheet....

as for the routing... I've already done it but still need many corrections from others Could you also help me with the routing

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

as all of us know funds are limited

Honestly, the prices at iteadstudio for PCB manufacturing are so dirt cheap that it would probably be hard to etch your own and save money. They often have sales where you effectively get 10 - 12 a 5cm square boards for less than $10.

 

[pandimus]

they are 9.90 right now for 10

 

[rrasco]

Yep, iteadstudio rocks. Took a few weeks to get mine (during holidays) but well worth the wait.

I am attaching the gerber files for iteadstudio for the triple separate CAT4101 boards. Keep in mind, these were built using the CAM file from iteadstudio so if you use them, only submit them to iteadstudio.

 

[pandimus]

just ordered my boards

 

[jpguppy]

If anyone wants some LM3409HV boards (V0.51 w/additional Vout cap spot) I have some available (about 10). PM me.

 

[martin_hawk]

found an interesting I2C based led controller....

PCA9634

for anyone who is using arduino controller....

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

The current handling capabilities of that device are REALLY low, it wouldn't be viable for use as a driver for main tank lighting on a reef tank.

 

[martin_hawk]

The current handling capabilities of that device are REALLY low, it wouldn't be viable for use as a driver for main tank lighting on a reef tank.

what I was thinking was for the analog signal generator in a remote location using I2C as communication interface.... like 0-5V or 0-10V... (?)

if going to use PWM dimming probably using :

PCA9532
16-bit I2C-bus LED dimmer (16-output)

or

PCA9685
16-channel, 12-bit PWM Fm+ I2C-bus LED controller

maybe? CMIIW...

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

Ah, ok. That chip could be suitable for that.

 

[zachts]

Yes, I picked a device compatible with 5v PWM from the Arduino. PWM is easy to come by. Just about any microprocessor will have compatible PWM pins and/or be capable of PWM with a little software. If you wanted to control these drivers with a pot, you could build a simple 555 circuit running on 5v that would barely be more complex than using an LM317 and pot to get a 0-10v analog signal.

That said, an Arduino is so easy, cheap, and powerful I'd rather see someone go that route than just put a knob on it! Maybe I need another thread on "arduino basics for LED applications."

Is there a post somewhere that shows how to build the "put a knob on it" route for PWM mentioned here? It seems it might be useful for some aplications such as dimming for aclimation purposes where you don't have access or need of an microcontroller.

Thanks

 

[rrasco]

Is there a post somewhere that shows how to build the "put a knob on it" route for PWM mentioned here? It seems it might be useful for some aplications such as dimming for aclimation purposes where you don't have access or need of an microcontroller.

Thanks

I'm using this circuit to build my 555 PWM generator with pot control. I will use this to test and dim my array until I get my arduino built out. I actually just got my Mouser order a few minutes ago and am looking over all the components as I type this.

http://pcbheaven.com/circuitpages/LED_PWM_Dimmer/

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

Googling "555 PWM" should bring up a TON of schematics, it's a basic building block in electronics that's been around for decades - the schematic linked by rrasco looks pretty typical, though it talks about directly driving the LEDs while you just want to use this to give a signal to the driver, not to drive the LEDs directly. You should even be able to get the components at a Radio Shack.

 

[pandimus]

I'm using this circuit to build my 555 PWM generator with pot control. I will use this to test and dim my array until I get my arduino built out. I actually just got my Mouser order a few minutes ago and am looking over all the components as I type this.

http://pcbheaven.com/circuitpages/LED_PWM_Dimmer/

which arduino build are you doing?

 

[rrasco]

Googling "555 PWM" should bring up a TON of schematics, it's a basic building block in electronics that's been around for decades - the schematic linked by rrasco looks pretty typical, though it talks about directly driving the LEDs while you just want to use this to give a signal to the driver, not to drive the LEDs directly. You should even be able to get the components at a Radio Shack.

That's correct. This setup directly dims the LED, but you can use it to send a PWM signal to a custom driver, such as the CAT4101, which would then handle the current dimming to your LED strings.

which arduino build are you doing?

I'm not sure yet. I have not put much thought into the arduino yet, I will be working on that while my tank cycles, which hopefully will be by next week.

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

FWIW if anyone reading this thread is thinking about the LM3409 IC, terahz's design for it can be modified to allow an analog input signal, which of course is the easiest to achieve "with a knob" - just use an appropriate wall wart to get a DC voltage and wire the pot as a voltage divider across it.

 

[pandimus]

ok, stupid question.. I have all the parts for this and the typhoon controller in my cart, before i submit it do i need anything else to interface the two besides wiring?
I have 2 24v 14 amp power supplys already.

 

[O2Surplus]

FWIW if anyone reading this thread is thinking about the LM3409 IC, terahz's design for it can be modified to allow an analog input signal, which of course is the easiest to achieve "with a knob" - just use an appropriate wall wart to get a DC voltage and wire the pot as a voltage divider across it.

I don't know if this is common knowledge or not, but the LM3409 based driver can be dimmed via a pot on the Vadj Pin and a PWM signal at the same time.There's no need for an external voltage divider I set up my driver push up to 3,000ma Max @27Vdc. In some cases that's too much current, and I've found that it can be lowered to as low as 100ma using a 250kohm pot wired into the Vadj Pin. I normally adjust the pot to provide a specific target current and use the PWM dimming pin connected to a Typhon controller for complete photo period control.Here's a photo-( the big 250kohm Pot was soldered in just for testing. The board's designed for a much smaller trimmer pot.)

 

[pandimus]

Just outta curiosity.. what are you guys using for the extra 5v plug in required to run the 4101's? Can i use the same power supply powering my typhoon? Can i serial all the 5v's for the drivers?

 

[O2Surplus]

Just outta curiosity.. what are you guys using for the extra 5v plug in required to run the 4101's? Can i use the same power supply powering my typhoon? Can i serial all the 5v's for the drivers?

You can do it that way( provided that your supply is 5V), or you can go cheap and dirty by simply soldering the Vin to the Enable pin on each CAT4101 IC. The PWM signal from the Typhon will then provide the necessary power for the Vin pin. The CAT 4101 uses a "built -in shut down delay timer" that will not react fast enough to power down the IC when the PWM signal goes from High to Low. I've been running my CAT drivers that way for a few years now, without issue.