DIY LED driver for reef lighting

Keep an eye on the temp for the 7805 on your CAT4101 board. You're asking it to drop 21v. If you start getting over a few dozen mA of current, it's gonna get ugly real quick. At the very least, you might want to slap a heatsink on it.
 
The dynamic headroom feature in that chip is wicked, but you'd need a power supply that can do something with the signal. Also, of course, it has the disadvantage of being in a pretty DIY-unfriendly package (28-pin TSSOP with a big thermal pad on the bottom).
 
I didn't have any experience with SMD stuff a year ago, but I found solder paste and a toaster oven works very well, I would encourage hobbyists to give it a try. My only problem is my eye are getting old and these things are so small, so I did get a stereo microscope on ebay and that helps alot.
 
For some reason I don't like the idea of baking circuits. A lot of these chips get damaged very easily if you go above a certain temperature and a toaster oven doesn't exactly give you control over temperature :)

I think a good soldering iron with a fine tip does the job much better and safer for the IC.
 
Ugh.
Does anyone have the PDFs for the double or triple CAT4101?
I'm ripping out my hair with GerbView :(
Otherwise I'm ready to etch the pcbs.
 
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jm,

Those look fine.

EDIT - but definitely make sure you have the latest version if you will be getting a board house to make these, as the silk layer (which you didn't show) has some updates, and there are more vias. The vias aren't showing in your copper layers because they are part of the GND planes. If you look at your drill file you should see the vias.
Ugh sorry for calling wolf :)
I understand, at first I was thinking something was wrong(misconstrued my memory of this post) but now I understand and wish i could edit my above post :)
 
The etching went rather badly.
I had 6 CAt4101s and all their external parts.
I sacrificed one set to see how hard it is to solder SMD.
Well time to try another kind of paper and hope it works.
I have to pay a few bucks per print so I'm definitely wishing I would have ordered a few boards from seedstudio instead of this.
If it's (as I see on their website) at $20 for a board, then it would have been totally worth it.
Sorry I tossed the board, although it would have caused a few laughs from how badly it looked :D
 
post-35179-1279005652_thumb.jpg

Err crappy prototype that worked !
I was able to dim and drive the array of 3MM leds from the driver.
(just disconnected it in the picture)
Need a good PSU to do the Crees.
Time to make a triple version,
I am using a sharpie though and will live with a few jumpers.
I would have done seedstudio PCBs instead but I already bought the materials :)
 
I HAVE DONE 8 in 1.. and it works. using it currently and working perfectly.

you need a different software though. called pcbartist. if interested can send it across.
 
Well it worked finally with a sharpie and desperation for the PCB etching.
Time to make a clean looking triple driver board with a sharpie :)
post-35179-1279245561_thumb.jpg
 
Just finished wiring the CAT drivers and my new leds and they seem to perform well. With the PSU at 20V, driving 6 CREE XPs at 400ma, the ICs get to about 130F after about 2-3mins of operation and stay in that area. Moving some air around them cools them down easily. I guess 20V is still quite a lot for 6 XP LEDs @ 400ma, I measured 2.9V across the LED, so I can probably put 2 more per driver for 23.2V which will be much easier on the CATs.

Does anyone know if the Potrans 6.5A psu can be adjusted down more than 20V?
 
Quick question.
Say(for instance..) I'm going to run two CAT4101's that will power 5 Crees on one and 4 on the other.
Wouldn't I need a 27 volt 1 amp plus PSU at one amp?
Or would it be a 15 volt 2 amp PSU?
Thanks for the awesome driver :)
 
You would need 2 amps at a little over whatever the largest voltage drop is. IIRC XR-E are around 3.7 so 18.5 plus ,5 volts for the CAT son 19 if that was the string of 5.
 
The 5 volts would come from the arduino.
So what your saying is that when i stack a few CAT4101's the current demand goes up not volts.
So in my case I need a 18.5 volt PSU(I forgot to mention the drivers are current set at 800 MA, is it an issue by feeding it 2 amps for 2 drivers?),
so more like a 24 volt supply unless I can get an adjustable transformer.
I know they get rather warm when you put too much voltage,
I do not know how a of as voltage difference would heat up the driver chip.

It would be temping to put the arduino right on the PSU(problem solved about too much voltage) but they can really only use 20 volts tops because the regulator can only on it's max use that high of a voltage.

Thanks for all the help,
I've spent maybe $20 and I can build 6 CAT4101 drivers and that's way less than what's out there.
 
Just finished wiring the CAT drivers and my new leds and they seem to perform well. With the PSU at 20V, driving 6 CREE XPs at 400ma, the ICs get to about 130F after about 2-3mins of operation and stay in that area. Moving some air around them cools them down easily. I guess 20V is still quite a lot for 6 XP LEDs @ 400ma, I measured 2.9V across the LED, so I can probably put 2 more per driver for 23.2V which will be much easier on the CATs.

Does anyone know if the Potrans 6.5A psu can be adjusted down more than 20V?

Just FYI, terahz doesn't look quite that goofy in person.
 
Correct as you add CAT s you need more current from your supply not voltage. You need about 1/5 volt over the LED drop. Anything more is just turned into heat the CAT as to dissipate.
 
Does anyone know if the Potrans 6.5A psu can be adjusted down more than 20V?

Yes, I've had it down below 19v, though iirc that's out of spec so might not be achievable on every single unit.

The 5 volts would come from the arduino.
So what your saying is that when i stack a few CAT4101's the current demand goes up not volts.
So in my case I need a 18.5 volt PSU(I forgot to mention the drivers are current set at 800 MA, is it an issue by feeding it 2 amps for 2 drivers?),
so more like a 24 volt supply unless I can get an adjustable transformer.
I know they get rather warm when you put too much voltage,
I do not know how a of as voltage difference would heat up the driver chip.

It would be temping to put the arduino right on the PSU(problem solved about too much voltage) but they can really only use 20 volts tops because the regulator can only on it's max use that high of a voltage.

Thanks for all the help,
I've spent maybe $20 and I can build 6 CAT4101 drivers and that's way less than what's out there.


Quick question.
Say(for instance..) I'm going to run two CAT4101's that will power 5 Crees on one and 4 on the other.
Wouldn't I need a 27 volt 1 amp plus PSU at one amp?
Or would it be a 15 volt 2 amp PSU?
Thanks for the awesome driver :)

A few thoughts related to these two posts:

1) keep in mind that the max the CAT4101 is rated for is 25v. So, DO NOT connect a power supply and/or LED string that needs more than that.
2) Powering 4 LEDs on one driver and 5 on another, and connecting them to the same power supply, means the power supply will have to have enough voltage to run the driver with 5 LEDs. This means the driver with only 4 LEDs will be dropping an extra 3 - 3.5v, and will likely get very hot (maybe hot enough to trip, unless you provide a heatsink or cooling for the IC).
3) As indicated in terahz's post, many "industrial" power supplies have adjustable voltage - so if you get a 24v supply but only NEED 21v, you'd definitely want to turn it down to 21v. Don't kill yourself looking for a 21v supply, the 24v unit will be happy trimmed down.
4) Regarding running the Arduino from the 24v supply - depending on how much current you're pulling on the Arduino, it may be just fine. If all you're doing is feeding a control signal to the CAT4101 chips, then I'd say it's almost certainly fine - that's only going to be an mA or two more load than the AVR on the Arduino takes, which isn't much at all. Worst case, get a voltage regulator around 10 - 15v and build a little breakout to knock down the 24v to something small enough to keep the reg on the Arduino from cooking itself. IMHO this is preferable to setting up another power supply just for the Arduino, if you're trying to keep things simple.


You need about 1/5 volt over the LED drop. Anything more is just turned into heat the CAT as to dissipate.

I think you meant 1/2v? :)
 
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