DIY LEDs - The write-up - (split again)
- Thread starter TheFishMan65
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brassmonkyballs
BMB
If I did over again I would have increased the amount of neutral whites. As it stands now I only have 6 neutral whites and 18 cool whites. I corrected this on my fixture by adding 3 reds spaced equally right down the center of my fixture...XPE reds are stupid powerful so a little goes a long way. I also run 6 greens which for me has been a total game changer in filling in the spectrum and the look of my tank. We miss a lot using LEDs because they are so narrow banded....have heard some say it almost looks fake when they fire up a CW and RB fixture. Through trial and error I feel I resolved this by adding reds and greens. I came across this photo of the spectral output of a 20,000k MH and realized we didn't have a lot of this using only RBs and CW's...notice the strong green signature as well as the red. At least thats my simple-minded logic
brassmonkyballs
BMB
Controller for our DIY LEDs!
Controller for our DIY LEDs!
So guys...I've been all over the cheap arduino controller thing, looked at other stuff on the market, considered a low end reef controller but at the end of the day I didn't like any of the options. The DIY controller thread is the closest but the amount of work and costs just turned me off. SO a few months ago I found this guy and let me tell you...its the bomb for what we want to do...automating our lighting schedule and sunrise/sunset!
Its called the DIM4, cost $79 and here's my overview of it:
This little guy packs a nice set of features, is much less costly than a full blown controller, and is specifically designed for those of us who have built our own LED fixtures and used dimming type drivers but have no way to automate the lighting schedule.
The DIM4
The DIM4 has 4 channels of programmable output to control drivers such as the Meanwell ELN or HLG lines. Its output is 0-10V analog dimming so the drivers cannot be PWM dimming type...I believe inventronics has analog dimming as well. Each channel also has the ability to direct drive 3 or 4 LEDs up to 500ma...so think moonlighting or even a nano tank setup. Finally channels 1 and 3 have relay outputs (right side of the board). As soon as channel 1 or 3 turn on per your programmed schedule the relay outputs turn on and put out 12V. I'll describe how I use these in a minute.
Programming is very simple with 3 buttons at the bottom of the board. Select takes you to Set Time and then each Channel parameters which is also very simple. Once you set the time you push the select button and you are on channel 1.
Each channel then has 5 settings:
Max drive - max output to your driver dimming circuit. ie 0-10V
Start Time - time you want to turn that channel on
Full on time - time you want to hit your max voltage on the dimming circuit...max light output
End Full - time to end the max output...difference between this and full on is how long its at peak setting
Off - Turn off that channel
In my 120g fixture I am using 2 large Meanwell HLG drivers and this line does not dim to off with zero voltage so I initially had my drivers on timers which would power them on and off. The problem with any other controller I looked at is that I would still have to run these drivers on timers and then use the controller to control the lighting schedule. With the DIM4 I use the relay outputs! I purchased 2 solid state relays (SSR) and connect these to the relay output channels. The power for the drivers now runs through the relay such that when the controller turns that channel on power is provided seamlessly to that driver and I no longer need any mechanical timers! Yeah!
The other benefit of the relay outputs I discovered was the ability to direct drive my cooling fans right off the controller utilizing the same relay outputs. I just ganged on the power lead for the fans into the same lug that runs to the relay. So when the controller turns on that channel, the driver powers up, the lights come on, the fans turn on, and the lighting schedule begins. Pretty slick. So was able to lose a timer from each driver, a separate timer for the fans, and a separate 12V power supply for the fans! Pretty Good and for $79 well worth it my opinion.
To give you an idea of how I use it here's my schedule:
10am - blue driver switches on and output at this level from the driver is initially is probably 50ma (the controller output is just starting the ramp to the driver). Its like moonlights but with a lot of them. Full on is 1pm and I run the blues at 9V which is 90% of the max output of the driver and in my case each string has a max potential of 1A so these are set for approximately 900ma max. So on at 10am ramp to full at 1pm.
12 noon - whites come on (which includes greens and reds). Full on is at 4pm. So ramp is from noon to 4pm. I have this max setting at 5V only which in my case is about 500ma.
4:15 - whites end full on. I only peak for 15 minutes.
6:30 - Blues end full on.
9pm - white off - ramp down from full on 4:15 to 9pm
11pm - blues off - ramp down from full on 6:30 to 11pm.
With the above schedule and my colors there are some beautiful blues and purples during sunrise and set. During peak time at 4-4:15 the tank is quite bright and cool white. My corals are doing extremely well and I now have alot of SPS. Link to my tank pics thread here My 120
Thought I'd post this up since I lot of us have wanted something like this without all the complications of having to build our own or buy an expensive controller that is not purpose built for our application. Happy to answer questions since I'm a happy user.
Controller for our DIY LEDs!
So guys...I've been all over the cheap arduino controller thing, looked at other stuff on the market, considered a low end reef controller but at the end of the day I didn't like any of the options. The DIY controller thread is the closest but the amount of work and costs just turned me off. SO a few months ago I found this guy and let me tell you...its the bomb for what we want to do...automating our lighting schedule and sunrise/sunset!
Its called the DIM4, cost $79 and here's my overview of it:
This little guy packs a nice set of features, is much less costly than a full blown controller, and is specifically designed for those of us who have built our own LED fixtures and used dimming type drivers but have no way to automate the lighting schedule.
The DIM4
The DIM4 has 4 channels of programmable output to control drivers such as the Meanwell ELN or HLG lines. Its output is 0-10V analog dimming so the drivers cannot be PWM dimming type...I believe inventronics has analog dimming as well. Each channel also has the ability to direct drive 3 or 4 LEDs up to 500ma...so think moonlighting or even a nano tank setup. Finally channels 1 and 3 have relay outputs (right side of the board). As soon as channel 1 or 3 turn on per your programmed schedule the relay outputs turn on and put out 12V. I'll describe how I use these in a minute.
Programming is very simple with 3 buttons at the bottom of the board. Select takes you to Set Time and then each Channel parameters which is also very simple. Once you set the time you push the select button and you are on channel 1.
Each channel then has 5 settings:
Max drive - max output to your driver dimming circuit. ie 0-10V
Start Time - time you want to turn that channel on
Full on time - time you want to hit your max voltage on the dimming circuit...max light output
End Full - time to end the max output...difference between this and full on is how long its at peak setting
Off - Turn off that channel
In my 120g fixture I am using 2 large Meanwell HLG drivers and this line does not dim to off with zero voltage so I initially had my drivers on timers which would power them on and off. The problem with any other controller I looked at is that I would still have to run these drivers on timers and then use the controller to control the lighting schedule. With the DIM4 I use the relay outputs! I purchased 2 solid state relays (SSR) and connect these to the relay output channels. The power for the drivers now runs through the relay such that when the controller turns that channel on power is provided seamlessly to that driver and I no longer need any mechanical timers! Yeah!
The other benefit of the relay outputs I discovered was the ability to direct drive my cooling fans right off the controller utilizing the same relay outputs. I just ganged on the power lead for the fans into the same lug that runs to the relay. So when the controller turns on that channel, the driver powers up, the lights come on, the fans turn on, and the lighting schedule begins. Pretty slick. So was able to lose a timer from each driver, a separate timer for the fans, and a separate 12V power supply for the fans! Pretty Good and for $79 well worth it my opinion.
To give you an idea of how I use it here's my schedule:
10am - blue driver switches on and output at this level from the driver is initially is probably 50ma (the controller output is just starting the ramp to the driver). Its like moonlights but with a lot of them. Full on is 1pm and I run the blues at 9V which is 90% of the max output of the driver and in my case each string has a max potential of 1A so these are set for approximately 900ma max. So on at 10am ramp to full at 1pm.
12 noon - whites come on (which includes greens and reds). Full on is at 4pm. So ramp is from noon to 4pm. I have this max setting at 5V only which in my case is about 500ma.
4:15 - whites end full on. I only peak for 15 minutes.
6:30 - Blues end full on.
9pm - white off - ramp down from full on 4:15 to 9pm
11pm - blues off - ramp down from full on 6:30 to 11pm.
With the above schedule and my colors there are some beautiful blues and purples during sunrise and set. During peak time at 4-4:15 the tank is quite bright and cool white. My corals are doing extremely well and I now have alot of SPS. Link to my tank pics thread here My 120
Thought I'd post this up since I lot of us have wanted something like this without all the complications of having to build our own or buy an expensive controller that is not purpose built for our application. Happy to answer questions since I'm a happy user.
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brassmonkyballs
BMB
I have not used the cats or built my own driver but if they utilize dimming via 0-10V and are not PWM then they should work fine.
Another simmlar off the shelf controller I've ran across is the Typhon controller. Not as feature packed but designed for use on PWM drivers, and it is reprogramable if your into that. so with a little programing know how you could add all kinds of functionallity to it if you wanted to. http://www.boostled.com/products/typhon-led-controller-kit?utm_source=google-product-search
Only works with PWM drivers so would be useful for those who used dimmabel buckpuck or similar. or plan on the meanwell "p" drivers. Would be a good upgrade for anyone who bought the RapidLED controller and does'nt like that it cant be reprogramed and is limited to 12 hour photoperiod.
There are reports that it works with the meanwell "D" drivers but most of those reports come with the disclamer "use it at your own risk, it worked for me but may damage the driver"
Anyone out there used this one? I'd be interested in hearing first hand feed back on it.
Only works with PWM drivers so would be useful for those who used dimmabel buckpuck or similar. or plan on the meanwell "p" drivers. Would be a good upgrade for anyone who bought the RapidLED controller and does'nt like that it cant be reprogramed and is limited to 12 hour photoperiod.
There are reports that it works with the meanwell "D" drivers but most of those reports come with the disclamer "use it at your own risk, it worked for me but may damage the driver"
Anyone out there used this one? I'd be interested in hearing first hand feed back on it.
brassmonkyballs
BMB
Aside from being PWM each channel only has capability to drive @100ma whereas the DIM4 can output 500ma on every channel....very important if you want to drive your fans not to mention moonlighting. The relay outputs are a huge bonus as well. Solid terminal lugs vs dealing with those little pins, solid mounting hardware, etc.
I did take a look at that typhon but it felt like it was made from the Who wants a cheap arduino controller thread...which I believe it was...without as much thought other than to capitalize on a potential market which is fine. Its just with the DIM4 it seems more thought out and now since I've been using it for a while I really really like it. :dance:
brassmonkyballs
BMB
double post and no delete option other than this
Thanks for doing the review. I've looked at DIM4 several times. Glad to hear more info on the relay outputs. I'm currently controlling my dimming with a Profilux which works but I noticed that one port on the control board is not working right and is just on/off, rather than dimming. The profilux has the same relay function built in to shut down the driver at 0 volts which is nice. It's about the same cost to get 4 ports for the Profilux as it is for the DIM4.
brassmonkyballs
BMB
Huge differences GG.....that controller is not programmable. It has 3 preset schedules and that's it. Further even if you hook multiple drivers to with different colors they are all on the same schedule....so for example if you wanted blues to come on 1st ramp up and then turn in whites later and ramp up you can't do that.
The DIM4 has 4 channels that are separately programmable so you can have a driver of one color turn on 1st and another driver at a later time, etc. It can also be used to direct drive small strings of 3 or 4 leds for say moonlighting when you might use say 3 blue LEDs and as the sunsets on 2 channels the moon rises on a 3rd channel.
Finally you can drive your fans right off it too. Has relay outputs which is a bonus for powering on off drivers or fans, etc.
BMB, This looks like the answer to the controlling of the dimming and the dusk to dawn modes. Don't think the programming could be much easier. I also went through the DIY thread on building a controller and came across some postings that said that they had bought parts on line capable of incorporating remote control. I guess similar to the one that Rapid sells? It would be cool if you could sit across from your tank and mix the colors to get them to your liking with a remote control. Could a remote be incorporated into a DIM4?
Rick----
Rick----
brassmonkyballs
BMB
lol.....I'm not smart enough to answer that but as far as I am aware there is no rf or blue tooth on board and don't know what parts one could buy to retro fit and replace those button pushes. This thing seems to be specifically designed to fill a void in what we do with an easy to use device at a reasonable price point with some nice features.
questions about light coverage... I am expecting my led's soon so I am starting the build for the stand. Not going to go into to much detail in this thread but I am going to try the u channel so I have the ability to setup the configuration any way I want instead of being stuck to a heat sink size...
The question is... is there to much spacing to have between led's?
I ordered 84 led's 48 blue 24cw and 12nw. I am looking at 4 rows front to back. The coverage area for each third is 21.5x16.5 with each area getting 28 led's. I am thinking the frame for each "pendant area" should be 14x10 to keep all led's 2" apart both directions. This is still leaving a large area uncovered and makes me wonder if I should try making the area larger? Am I missing something?
The question is... is there to much spacing to have between led's?
I ordered 84 led's 48 blue 24cw and 12nw. I am looking at 4 rows front to back. The coverage area for each third is 21.5x16.5 with each area getting 28 led's. I am thinking the frame for each "pendant area" should be 14x10 to keep all led's 2" apart both directions. This is still leaving a large area uncovered and makes me wonder if I should try making the area larger? Am I missing something?
TheFishMan65
New member
How high will they be mounted and will you be using lenses. The higher up the wider spread you have. The tighter the lenses the closer they need to be.
Generally a spread of 2-3 won't be a problem.
Generally a spread of 2-3 won't be a problem.
TheFishMan65
New member
With those numbers I don't think 3 inches will be a problem.
TheFishMan65
New member
Probably 4 - 6 inches, but I have never tried to figure this out. Mine are 3 feet over the tank (no shadowing by the way).
SC Reefaholic
Member
Kress, FishMan, Der Will, etc......
I want to add 2 red and 2 green LEDs to a small setup over my 20H (Currently 10RB on a 48D and 8CW/2NW on a 48D) just to see what effect it has on the colors. If I like it then I will add some to my larger setup over my 65H.
I need a driver that will run 4 LEDs up to 600 or 700 mA and be dimable with my Apex 0-10v dimming circuit. It appears that the XP-E greens have similar fV to the RBs. The OSRAM reds appear to have less fV. Looks like the total will be between 10 and 12 volts. I was thinking the ELN30-15D would work but I am still a newbie when it comes to electrical specs. Here is the datasheet. What do you think? Any other suggestions?
http://www.meanwell.com/search/eln-30/eln-30-spec.pdf
The 30-15 would be putting out 2 amps so I would need to find a way to limit it to 700mA maximum before considering the dimming in case something happened to my Apex and the driver reverted to full power.
I want to add 2 red and 2 green LEDs to a small setup over my 20H (Currently 10RB on a 48D and 8CW/2NW on a 48D) just to see what effect it has on the colors. If I like it then I will add some to my larger setup over my 65H.
I need a driver that will run 4 LEDs up to 600 or 700 mA and be dimable with my Apex 0-10v dimming circuit. It appears that the XP-E greens have similar fV to the RBs. The OSRAM reds appear to have less fV. Looks like the total will be between 10 and 12 volts. I was thinking the ELN30-15D would work but I am still a newbie when it comes to electrical specs. Here is the datasheet. What do you think? Any other suggestions?
http://www.meanwell.com/search/eln-30/eln-30-spec.pdf
The 30-15 would be putting out 2 amps so I would need to find a way to limit it to 700mA maximum before considering the dimming in case something happened to my Apex and the driver reverted to full power.
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