DIY LEDs - The write-up - (split again)

[lpsouth1978]

Ok, so I have been looking at data sheets for Drivers all day and I think I have made a decision. I think I am going to get the HLG-100H-42B. It should run them at 2.28A, 95.76W and it is PWM or 0-10V dimmable. I think this will give me the most options and I can get one for about $70. Whereas the LPF-90D-42 provides 2.15 Amps and 90.3W @ $65.

 

[joegoersch]

I'm uprgrading from 29 gallon to a 120 gallon tank (24 x 24 x 48 in).
Right now just FOWLR and a BTA which has been doing well under my T5 lights. I'm getting ready to start my LED build with 72 LEDS--24 NW XP-Es and 48 RB XT-Es. I will run them with 3 Meanwell 48-60 dimmable drivers, each driver running two strings of 12 LEDs.

Two questions:

1) Can (Should) I run the three Meanwell drivers from a single AC (120v) power cord ? It would be neater, less wires, less plugs. Any downside ? Any thoughts ?

2) I was NOT planning on using optics. If I get a Tridacna clam would it be o.k. on the bottom of the tank with no optics ? I could raise it and place it on LR or alternatively I could put optics on some LEDs which sit over the clam. I would use the narrowest optics-say 40 degrees--on the 12 or so LEDS most directly over the clam. Thoughts ?

 

[Snootch]

I'm running three Meanwell drivers from a single AC (120v) power cord. No issues at all.
The reason I did it was to save the other 2 AC outlets on the Neptune energy bar for other equipment.

RP

 

[joegoersch]

thanks-any thoughts on the clams ?

thanks-any thoughts on the clams ?

I'm running three Meanwell drivers from a single AC (120v) power cord. No issues at all.
The reason I did it was to save the other 2 AC outlets on the Neptune energy bar for other equipment.

RP

Thanks. That's the answer I was looking for ! Any thoughts about the adequacy of light for the clam ? Maybe I need to ask in the clam forum ?

 

[kirsto71]

I am just after some help with a dimming circuit i am putting together. I have a number of dimmable drivers that accept a 1-10v signal and i plan to setup a series of potentiometers (1 for each driver). I plan to have between 10 and 15 separate drivers. My question is can i purchase one 10v power supply that feeds all of the potentiometers and how many amps would it need to be rated to. Also what do i need to look for when purchasing the 10v power supply i can recall people talking about regulated power supplies. Thanks for any help.

 

[wardda]

Attaching Lenses and Amps

Attaching Lenses and Amps

Hello,

I just about have my setup ready to go, I just have a couple of questions. The first is how do you attach lenses to the stars so they don't fall off. I have XP-G's (whites) and XT-E's (Royal Blues) that I got from Rapidled and I'm just wondering how you attach them. I read superglue isn't a good idea and I would like the option to remove them in the event that I need wider or tighter lens. Is something as simple as elmers school glue good enough to hold them, or is there something better to use?

Then just wanted to see if I'm good on my amps for the leds. I have my max points for my XP-G's at 1A and my XT-E's at .75A. These are on dimmable meanwell 60-48P's drivers, dimmed by a custom arduino controller and I'm wondering if either of them should be set higher or if these are good top end levels?

1 string XP-G's, 2 strings XT-E's, all using 80 deg optics, linear design on three 48" channel, in a B-W-B-B-W-B-B-W-B-B-W-B pattern, over a standard 90g mounted, 9" off the water.

Dan

 

[brassmonkyballs]

I am just after some help with a dimming circuit i am putting together. I have a number of dimmable drivers that accept a 1-10v signal and i plan to setup a series of potentiometers (1 for each driver). I plan to have between 10 and 15 separate drivers. My question is can i purchase one 10v power supply that feeds all of the potentiometers and how many amps would it need to be rated to. Also what do i need to look for when purchasing the 10v power supply i can recall people talking about regulated power supplies. Thanks for any help.

That's allot of drivers but the answer should be yes. not knowing what drivers you are using I wouldn't' expect them to use more than 10-20ma but would err on the high side of say 50ma....with that logic maybe a 10V 1 A supply would do the trick.

 

[Snootch]

Then just wanted to see if I'm good on my amps for the leds. I have my max points for my XP-G's at 1A and my XT-E's at .75A. These are on dimmable meanwell 60-48P's drivers, dimmed by a custom arduino controller and I'm wondering if either of them should be set higher or if these are good top end levels?

1 string XP-G's, 2 strings XT-E's, all using 80 deg optics, linear design on three 48" channel, in a B-W-B-B-W-B-B-W-B-B-W-B pattern, over a standard 90g mounted, 9" off the water.

Dan

That is exactly where I have my XP-Gs and XT-Es set at.
I couldn't get a good front to back coverage with the fixture 9" above the water ( same optics, 24" wide tank ) 12.5" is a sweet spot for me.

RP

 

[emora]

I used Loctite 411. Works well.

Be VERY careful with Loctite/Super Glue/Crazy glue around LEDs and plastic lenses. Often the cyanoacrilate vapors will fog the clear plastic that encapsulates de LED or the lens. It doesn't even have to come in contact. Just the vapors can cause it to fog over permanently.

I've also seen the plastic capsule degrade and fall off the LEDs after using cyanoacrilate glues.

 

[wardda]

What product do you recommend? I was just going to use something like elmers school glue as that isn't overly strong, but I didn't know if that would hold up to the heat. I have heard others use very very small dabs of arctic silver thermal adhesive....

are either of these good options?

Be VERY careful with Loctite/Super Glue/Crazy glue around LEDs and plastic lenses. Often the cyanoacrilate vapors will fog the clear plastic that encapsulates de LED or the lens. It doesn't even have to come in contact. Just the vapors can cause it to fog over permanently.

I've also seen the plastic capsule degrade and fall off the LEDs after using cyanoacrilate glues.

 

[emora]

To hold the lenses in place you don't need a strong glue. In fact a more brittle adhesive should be an advantage if you should need to remove the lenses as some point in the future. Elmer's Glue should work fine.

My customers tend to use contact cement or modelling glue (like Testors).

 

[TheFishMan65]

I have used a small bit of epoxy with good results.

 

[markroland]

Rapid Led fixture

Rapid Led fixture

Just completed mine thought I'd share. I used marine epoxy from home depot to attach the optics (pics to come). Put a dab on with a toothpick and it's holding great. Should be brittle enough to pop the lenses off if need be. Total cost was about $290 from rapid led and maybe $30 for the fixture hardware from home depot. Got the plug-n-play 24 led k package with 10v dimmable drivers and drilled/tapped 16" heatsink that I chopped in half. Went to school for electrical engineering, worked with surface mount components, so I know how to solder, but for $20 more, I saved lots of time soldering and cutting/stripping wiring for these. Coupled with the drilled/tapped heatsink (maybe another $10-20 for drilling/tapping) I can swap out leds at any time within minutes.

This lighting setup was WELL worth double what I paid imo. Coral colors seemed to flip and intensify overnight. 14 royal blue and 10 cool white btw. I may add 4 reds and 4 natural whites at some point, have moonlights still to wire in.

I have a few more pics in my album. Was a pretty easy build, still need to clean up the wires and possibly enclose the top/bottom of the led fixture but it looks decent as is and definitely stays cool. Note that the tank pic was before mounting the optics and the leds were around 40% brightness. Will get some good pics with the optics soon, made a huge difference. Oh and the shimmer effect is just amazing.

 

[reefermad619]

Hey guys,

I'm going to start a build soon and was wondering if you guys thought I would need fans if I ran the LEDs on 1.5" c channel. The fins are 1" and the c channel is 1/8" thick. I figure the LEDs will be 3" apart on center. LEDs are cree xpgs and xre. Thanks.

 

[brassmonkyballs]

Be VERY careful with Loctite/Super Glue/Crazy glue around LEDs and plastic lenses. Often the cyanoacrilate vapors will fog the clear plastic that encapsulates de LED or the lens. It doesn't even have to come in contact. Just the vapors can cause it to fog over permanently.

I've also seen the plastic capsule degrade and fall off the LEDs after using cyanoacrilate glues.

+1 be careful using super glues. That being said thats all I use. I use thick gel and with a toothpick place a very small dap in 2 places. Too much and you will fog stuff. Anything plastic gets etched by the vapors but if careful never have and issue.

A note on this.....thin runny super glue will more readily fog. It's faster setting and gives off a ton of vapors when curing. I also build RC aircraft and have years and years of practice gluing my fingers together, fogging plastic, and using every type out there. If you go to a hobby shop you can get odorless CA and that will not fog plastic. Gel works next best because it's so slow setting. FWIW

 

[vietcu]

I am currently running 2 panels of 36 LEDs on my 72x30 tank. I have the two panels on the ends of the tank, and a 250MH in the center. Each panels consist of 24 Royal blue, and 12 Cool white XPs. I have both spectrum running at full capacity without having to dim either the white or blue for the color that I want, each string is running at roughly 650-660 ma. What I am noticing is that anything red is looking more brown under the LEDs. I want to convert the middle of my tank to LEDs also to replace the MH. Right now I already have 2 extra 48p Meanwell drivers. I was curious what you guys would suggest as far as LEDs to bring out a little more of the red.

 

[TheFishMan65]

vietcu,

I will be changing some of my cools to neutrals. I have read that that works to bring out the reds.

 

[Eltonka]

Would a 1'' Flat Aluminum stock that is 10'' long work for 4 LED lights running at 750mA?

The purpose is to supplement the current lights on a nano. I already own the items except the aluminum piece so hoping it could work since I can get it for cheap locally..

 

[yeldarbj]

Yes, it will work but it will also get very hot. You'll probably be okay if it's actively cooled, with a fan. If it's for supplements on a nano, you should try running them at 350 mA - look at Rapid's moon light driver for $10.

 

[Eltonka]

Yes, it will work but it will also get very hot. You'll probably be okay if it's actively cooled, with a fan. If it's for supplements on a nano, you should try running them at 350 mA - look at Rapid's moon light driver for $10.

The Stock nano hood has two fans integrated into it, I'm just retrofitting these lights in the hood. I can fit a 1'' L Aluminum stock instead of the flat beam that would be 10'' in length.