DIY LEDs - The write-up

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is a 100K pot ok?? does it have to be 10k? i understand i have to provide a ten volt signal but how do i hook up two (or more) meanwells to one wall wart? if i want to dim whites and blues separately do i have to get more than one wall wart? how do i hook up all the meanwells to one cord for the outlet??
 
OK, I'll bite. One forum newb to another...:wavehand:

I'm looking at a little different kind of solution, one where the Bridgelux might actually be useful. (I've looking to build pendants, for freshwater.) But I'm not seeing the solutions for optics and/or different colors, especially for color mixing. And 440 nm might be interesting.

You seem to have a little experience with this. So tell me/us why we should be going this route - politely?

I've been tracking this and several other related threads for a while. I think you'll find that this group is very open-minded, willing to help, and willing to consider other options when put forwards and justified. Not at all like North Korea. :lol2:

here is his post from candle power forums.
Unread 05-20-2010, 10:53 AM
blasterman blasterman is offline
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Default Re: Review: Satistronics 20watt blue LED
I did run into some issues with the big Satistronics, but they were more interesting than anything else.

First, the color isn't as deep as their 3watt LEDs. Satistronics 3W LEDs are nearly identical to royal blue Crees, but about 25% less bright. I thought the 20watt versions would be the same color, but they aren't. They are between RB and standard blue Crees, which is very Cyan. While not a show stopper, about 90% of us prefer royal blue for reefing.

Another issue is the 20watt version when fired up to full power are rather dangerous to use. First, they are a terror on your eyes and worse than 400watt reef metal halide. Next, they'll ignite any object placed within a few inches and will burn through plastic in a matter of seconds. Since I like to use acrylic covers over my tanks this created a problem. Setting a fire with a LED like a laser is actually kind of fun at first, but then there's the issue of trying to epoxy optics over an emitter that does this. The epoxy soon melts.

So, the 20watts are sitting in a box waiting for another project. In the mean time I contacted Satistronics, and they said they'd look at making a 440nm blue in 10-20watts, which should solve the problem. Color will be awesome for reefing and green-houses, and at 10watt it will eliminate the need for 3watt RB Crees.

As for power supplies, I use both LED current regulated and fixed voltage. In most cases I don't need current regulated and fixed voltage supplies are typically cheaper, but a tad less efficient.

For instance, I have a box full of 18.5 volt 6.5amp laptop bricks. I run 5 white or blue LEDS in series, and this delivers 3.7 (3watts) to each. No need for resistors. I just keep throwing a series of 5 to get my light value. Real easy.

A fixed voltage Mean Well typically has a voltage adjustment range, and this is certainly more flexible than a laptop brick because you can tweak the voltage to match what you want to do. Also, Mean Wells are cheaper and better made than laptop bricks. However, I've got that case of laptop bricks so I might as well use them. Plus, laptop bricks are sealed and won't die if a splatter of salt gets in them.

Oh yeah, one piece of advice for reef lighting. If you want better color, don't use cool-whites. Use neutral-whites instead at about a 2:1 ratio of RB/neutral-white. I've been following the crowd on cool-whites and not getting good color in my tanks, and on a hunch switched to neutrals. I got much better color, with more purple/pink/orange. If you don't believe me, just try two RBs with a neutral in between them and hold it over a part of your tank. The color improvement over cool-whites is impressive.
 
to setup the meanwells and pots for dimming all off of one source i'm guessing i have to wire them in parallel. can anyone post a diagram or picture of this please?
 
WOULD ANYBODY, EVERYBODY, PLEASE CRITIQUE THE ATTACHED WIRING DIAGRAM and tell me if this will work, and or be safe. Especially any of you electrical guru's. I need a 100W driver, if I'm not mistaken, and the Meanwell I'm looking at, HLG-100-48 that has the 1-10V dimming function does not have a voltage adjustment. So will the resisters and fuses work?
So any comment will be appreciated. I'm itching to open the check book.
 

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GEORGEDOPE,

A quick look says Ok, but I would change the fuses from .75 to 1.0 Amp, and try fast-blow fuses to start out.

Then run the strings at ~0.750.

However, using that 20 Ohm resistor will drop 15 Volts @ .75 Amps so that is ~12 Watts, so you need at least a 20Watt resistor.

I have never even paid attention to the parallel string debate because I would never run them, but that seems like a lot of wasted power.

You are throwing away ~210 watts of power in this system JUST in those resistors.

Stu
 
So I recieved part of my missing order today from cutter (still missing my 3 drivers other drivers....). Something that was missing from the original order were the holders for the optics. I recieved them today and a quick look at this I have no idea how these are even practical or even useable... Anyways, I took a few snap shots:

optics0.jpg



Here it looks like the optic holder is supposed to go flush and square with the emitter, but it blocks the pads, and I highly doubt its ok for the holder to be resting on the soldered pads.
optics.jpg

optics1.jpg


And here I just put the optic on the led, its not glued, would there be a way to just get these guys to stick on without the holder? I know I read superglue but this seems pretty tricky....
optics2.jpg
 
Jay1982,

Those holders work just fine the way they are.

It is OK for them to sit on the solder pads, but I have found that the holders prefer the user to solder on particular pads for the lens to fit flush.

DO NOT use super glue any where around the emitters.

The holders are best held on with a tiny bit of 2-part epoxy.
They can still pop off later.

Stu
 
Thanks Stu, is there anything else I can use instead of epoxy? I dont have any at the moment. I could go get some if its the only option, is there any specific brand of epoxy that I should use?
 
WOULD ANYBODY, EVERYBODY, PLEASE CRITIQUE THE ATTACHED WIRING DIAGRAM and tell me if this will work, and or be safe. Especially any of you electrical guru's. I need a 100W driver, if I'm not mistaken, and the Meanwell I'm looking at, HLG-100-48 that has the 1-10V dimming function does not have a voltage adjustment. So will the resisters and fuses work?
So any comment will be appreciated. I'm itching to open the check book.

It's wallwart man, wallwart! You could not fit a Wallmart there. Besides the traffic it would cause..

Nice drawing BTW.

Looks good but I agree with stu 20 Ohms is probably too much. Try 5 Ohms and make sure they are 5 to 10 watt resistors. I'd go with maybe 10W as then they won't burn you if you touch them. Yes, use fast blows as stu suggests.

You will have a nice setup with those resistors as then you can instantly measure the current thru any string anytime. This can' t be done in the non-resistor cases. Just use a voltmeter to measure the voltage drop across a string's resistor.

String Current = Measured resistor voltage / 5 Ohms

Then turn down the MW's current limit pot until you have 700mA running thru each string. (Or a voltage across each resistor of about 3.5V.

Should be nice. :thumbsup:
 
I just though about something:

Can I use my royal blue for moonlight or do I need different one and where can I have them ?

thanks
Vincent
 
I just though about something:

Can I use my royal blue for moonlight or do I need different one and where can I have them ?

thanks
Vincent

From what I've read, the Cree LEDs are too powerful and can't be dimmed sufficiently to use them as moon lights.

CJ
 
From what I've read, the Cree LEDs are too powerful and can't be dimmed sufficiently to use them as moon lights.

CJ


With most off the shelf controllers that would be true.

I'd probably use standard gumdrops for moon lighting. I would also make sure there was regular total darkness for my night crew .
 
I have a pretty basic question... I've tried to find an answer but there's just so many threads and many of them have more than a hundred pages.

I'm going to set up a 24 LED fixture with the intention of eventually plugging it into an apex to control the dimming of blue and white separately. I won't have the apex for at least 4 or 5 months and I'll need the lights running before then. Will the dimmable meanwell driver run set up as if it is just a regular driver? I don't mind being unable to dim the lights until the apex arrives. I just don't think I can handle the soldering and wiring involved in making the lights dimmable without the controller.
 
I have 6 meanwells, could I hook them up to one extension cord going to the wall?
I would put them on at least two power cords to take into count the inrush current. There is some concern about running that many Mean wells in the house, let alone on one circuit.
 
I have a pretty basic question... I've tried to find an answer but there's just so many threads and many of them have more than a hundred pages.

I'm going to set up a 24 LED fixture with the intention of eventually plugging it into an apex to control the dimming of blue and white separately. I won't have the apex for at least 4 or 5 months and I'll need the lights running before then. Will the dimmable meanwell driver run set up as if it is just a regular driver? I don't mind being unable to dim the lights until the apex arrives. I just don't think I can handle the soldering and wiring involved in making the lights dimmable without the controller.

If you can wire the LEDs, you can wire a dimming circuit. See this post > http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=17153100&postcount=139
You could also just use a 9 volt battery or even several 1.5 volt batteries to get the brightness you wanted. IE if you did not want them as bright as the 9 volt would make them use 4 or 5 AA batteries to get 6 or 7.5 volts.
 
WOULD ANYBODY, EVERYBODY, PLEASE CRITIQUE THE ATTACHED WIRING DIAGRAM and tell me if this will work, and or be safe. Especially any of you electrical guru's. I need a 100W driver, if I'm not mistaken, and the Meanwell I'm looking at, HLG-100-48 that has the 1-10V dimming function does not have a voltage adjustment. So will the resisters and fuses work?
So any comment will be appreciated. I'm itching to open the check book.
George
It looks good to me. I do not clearly understand the purpose of the resistors. It seams like it makes more sense to balance the strings of LEDs and eliminate that current draw of the resistors.
I plan to do a very similar set up using the HLG-100-54B or HLG-120-54B. The will power 6 strings of 15 RB and 4 strings of 15 XPG white, for a total of 150 LEDs. I should only need 2 drivers, using the HLG-120-54B.

I do not understand why everyone is so concerned with the parallel strings of LEDs. This is exactly the way the Mean wells a designed for according to Mean wells web site. They are designed for street lights which are much more important/critical and harder/expensive to maintain then an Aquarian light fixture. If they were requiring a lot of maintenance cities would not be adopting them in droves. Using them in single strings reduces their efficiency substantially, not to mention being very expensive!
 
acquaintances. The lifetimes are enormous. Don't sweat them. The issue is lumen maintenance. You won't want a still running LED 50 years from now because you may need a flashlight to find it. If the air around your LEDs is below 50C you have nothing to fear. But, for maximum lumen maintenance you would want 25C air around the LEDs.

In my testing I find the lens get much hotter then the heat sink and then I expected. the lenses are to hot to hold on to for long. I have not had everything up to full voltage or current yet. I am using 3/4x1/2x1/8" U channel. I think I will get something with more mass and put a fan blowing down fluorescent bulb protectors over the lenses. My inferred thermometer does not seam to be reading accurately on the aluminum heat sink for some reason. It tells me the heat sink is nearly the same temp as everything else around it and it clearly is not! My guess is the Heat sink is getting up to about 85-90 with 13 LEDs mounted on a 4 foot strip of U channel. On the stars I have gotten readings of 103F.
 
You can not use standard temp guns on metal. Especially shiny metal. The gun is looking at light. A shiny metal surface will reflect the views of cooler surrounding areas into your temp gun.

Sounds like we need to pay more attention to cooling our lenses and optic now.
 
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