DIY LEDs - The write-up

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Has anyone had any experience with the new 420nm led's from nanotuners...?
Quoting Clive (Evil)
We are very close to offering the DIY community something pretty unique. Come the begining of November, we will have in our hands a new 420nm True Violet LED that will offer some additional benefits to the already stellar performance of LED rigs. Stats are as follows:

Wavelength "“ 420nm +/- 5nm
Spectral Half Width "“ 12nm
Optical Output Power "“ 350-400mW
Max Current "“ 500mA
Typical Forward voltage (@500mA) "“ 3.8v
Viewing Angle "“ 120 degrees
Max LED Junction Temperature "“ 125C


Many of you will reconize that 420nm is typically associated with what we call "true actinic" in the T5 and PC world. While the general effect is about the same, it does get a little washed out when used in conjunction with bright white light.

Now, I'm sure you may be wondering what the point is if you can't see the results. Well, your corals will be able to tell. Thing is, 420nm is part of the large blue/violet peak in the photosynthetic action spectra. As a result, this LED can add some serious PAR to those that need it. In tests, we have seen at least a 10% increase in PAR (spectrometer measured, not quantum meter) over similar royal blue LEDs. The change in wavelength over the royal blue LEDs may also lead to some overall better coral coloration long term.

LEDs will be available at the begining of November, and will retail for about $6 mounted on a 20mm star. These are also compatible with the standard Cree optics that we have available on the site. These will also work well on some of our special universal heatsinks, if you want to add a splash of actinic to your existing lighting setup.
 
Ahh crap... you can't link to some web site that does not support RC. It had some info on the nano-tuner's 420. But you can look on that "builder" site
Yeah just like seachem's buffer
 
Bad link to look at

Bad link to look at

I just posted the link that someone needed... Just trying to help, I will just keep my post to myself.
 
I just posted the link that someone needed... Just trying to help, I will just keep my post to myself.
Don't get me wrong, It was me the one who tried to post a link and the board just blocked the link because of a situation they had before.

Your link is ok, but is not LED 420nm those are power compacts though.
Sorry for the misunderstanding
 
Ahh crap... you can't link to some web site that does not support RC. It had some info on the nano-tuner's 420. But you can look on that "builder" site
Yeah just like seachem's buffer

Is this form about helping and supporting people, not web sites ??

I'm just trying to support the reefing of all kinds.

again sorry, just had my eye on the wrong ball is all
 
Yay finally got everything up and running for an hour (on 9v battery, havent used multimeter yet but have a real one coming tonight)...after an hour running the meanwell drivers are 'warm', are these going to need a fan on them or will just putting them up off the carpet be fine?
 
Quoting Clive (Evil)

There is another use for these 420nm LEDs besides mixing them with the daylight LEDs - having only the violets LEDs turned on, to give that awesome look of the bright fluorescent greens. For those of you who have never seen a tank lit with only violet light ('true' actinic, not the blue that many people think actinic means), it is way cool. It may not be a look found in nature, but I love that look for after hours viewing.
 
I can't wait... my RBs alone already make my tank look like a living, velvet, blacklight poster from the 1970's...:D
 
Check out this little build o' mine. I have decided to set a picotope, not sure whether I will do FW planted or SW reef. If I do the reef it will not have any SPS. I had an extra picotope light sitting around and thought that I would try to make it an LED fixture for the pico. heres what I did.

Sorry I don't have pictures of the build in progress, just finished.

First I stripped everything out of the light and left nothing but the plastic dome. I then melted some additional slits in the top of the dome for added air flow. I then used two 40mm 12V fans, in series, and superglued them into the dome. I also superglued the 1000ma buckpuck into the dome.

I was able to use the original on/off switch, just took a little bit of rewiring. for the heatsink i used 1" x 1/4" aluminum. I cut this to the shape and size of the dome and drilled and countersinked wholes for the mounting screws. These allowed me to use the original mounting locations from the plastic cover.

I used 3 Cree XR-E cool white, and 2 Cree XP-E royal blue. I dont have a cover for it yet but will work on one soon.

The whole thing stays very cool, almost no heat at all, with the two fans. I also used the dimmable buck puck and mounted the pot at the top of the fixture.

Let me know what you think.
 
Sorry about that, I forgot to add the pics. Here you go, my camera does not take great picture so I must appologize.
 

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