DIY LEDs - The write-up
- Thread starter JohnL
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Thanks for the information sir.
I will try to find a place with the drivers in stock and order them since I heard they can take a while to get delivered. I won't use them until I can get a full 36 load on each driver.
What's everybody's opinion on XPE RB bins?
Is it worth it to pay $2 more per LED for the special, D316(i think) bin of the XPE RB? How much of a difference would that make?
Thanks for the input.
I will try to find a place with the drivers in stock and order them since I heard they can take a while to get delivered. I won't use them until I can get a full 36 load on each driver.
What's everybody's opinion on XPE RB bins?
Is it worth it to pay $2 more per LED for the special, D316(i think) bin of the XPE RB? How much of a difference would that make?
Thanks for the input.
oscar.millan
Active member
Hey guys, quick question... I'm wondering what people are using / what tools you would recommend for soldering.
I just placed my first order with RapidLED, so I have few days to purchase the soldering equipment.
I've heard great things about Weller. Any thoughts? Past experiences? Good and bad?
Thanks for the help guys, great thread.
I just placed my first order with RapidLED, so I have few days to purchase the soldering equipment.
I've heard great things about Weller. Any thoughts? Past experiences? Good and bad?
Thanks for the help guys, great thread.
If you check out the rc threads on the Maxspect Chinese fixtures you will see first hand the chinese leds from 30 watters to ir to pink to 20k and crees side by side.
These have both in any type of mix you can imagine.
I think when cree comes out with 18k leds and 405nm or 440nm leds then
we can say that chinese leds have no place but really alot of the threads
on rc are not in the loop like they usally are.
The royal blues from sem are purple like a radium which i like to include in my
lighting.....The 10 watter is really a nice addition for some fixtures.
These have both in any type of mix you can imagine.
I think when cree comes out with 18k leds and 405nm or 440nm leds then
we can say that chinese leds have no place but really alot of the threads
on rc are not in the loop like they usally are.
The royal blues from sem are purple like a radium which i like to include in my
lighting.....The 10 watter is really a nice addition for some fixtures.
brassmonkyballs
BMB
60 degree should be ok for penetration IMO but you're hanging them so high I'd be concerned more about lighting outside the tank. If you use tighter optics that will help. I hope the buckpucks are dimming type though.
They most certainly are the dimming type.
I do have that concern about the distance from the water. I hear so many conflicting reports of distance suggestions for optics and I don't want to just buy 60 AND 40 like a lot of people end up doing.
I just want the light to be high enough that they don't interfere with top=down viewing and are safe from needing a splash guard.
I do have that concern about the distance from the water. I hear so many conflicting reports of distance suggestions for optics and I don't want to just buy 60 AND 40 like a lot of people end up doing.
I just want the light to be high enough that they don't interfere with top=down viewing and are safe from needing a splash guard.
Does anyone know how a single 12V PC fan can be powered with a 24V PS?
Obviously running them in series would be best but I am doing a modular build with only one fan per light module. It might end up being easier if I just shove two fans on each, even though that is silly.
Obviously running them in series would be best but I am doing a modular build with only one fan per light module. It might end up being easier if I just shove two fans on each, even though that is silly.
I need a little advice on my driver choice. I am planning around 216 total cree xre LEDs. I will be wiring them in series of 12 LEDs and as many parallel series as I can while keeping 700ma or so. I am thinking I should be looking intonthe mean well hlg series but I don't know which one.
I need the dimming function which will hook up to apex.
Any advice?
Thanks
I need the dimming function which will hook up to apex.
Any advice?
Thanks
The number of strings times the current you want to run your LEDs at = the minimum output-current of the driver.
The number of LEDs in a string times the Vf (+ 2 or 3 volts for the driver)= the minimum output-voltage.
The HLG (B) series would be the driver you're looking for, they have a 3 in 1 dimming option, so you're able to dim the lights anyway you want.
I have the dimmable 150 and 185 (B) version and these drivers are pretty accurate.
Don't count on some extra current like the ELN series sometimes tend to give.
e.g. I have 10 XM-Ls in 4 parallel strings on a 150-36 (4.2A) and these strings run exactly within 1040mA and 1050mA max.
The number of LEDs in a string times the Vf (+ 2 or 3 volts for the driver)= the minimum output-voltage.
The HLG (B) series would be the driver you're looking for, they have a 3 in 1 dimming option, so you're able to dim the lights anyway you want.
I have the dimmable 150 and 185 (B) version and these drivers are pretty accurate.
Don't count on some extra current like the ELN series sometimes tend to give.
e.g. I have 10 XM-Ls in 4 parallel strings on a 150-36 (4.2A) and these strings run exactly within 1040mA and 1050mA max.
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The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
8 months later I am still loving the LED's BUT my 2 dusk/dawn strings are dead. Dum Dee Dum Dum. Gotta take things apart and see what died. I have my fans set to run by temp. I really didn't think I needed them with the heat sinks I have but now I am wondering because they cycle on and off while the first two strings only are running.
The HLG 240 series are only dimmable through output cable and resistor like a pot. Or by the internal potmeter, but that's not really a dimming option, it's more like adjusting the output which might be necessary or not, just once.
The most powerfull and dimmable meanwell driver is the HLG 185 -B series
Bugcrusher
New member
Well I have confused myself. My club did a group buy from China and along with my 80 leds I got a large PS that is constant voltage...that I am not so thrilled about. Wanted to replace it with a meanwell, but which one. Need to drive 80 leds Fv of 3.6 @ 700mA divided into 8 strings of 10 leds. Seems I will need 2 one for the whites 6 strings of 10 and another for the rblue 2 strings of 10. My brain hurts!
brassmonkyballs
BMB
For the 6 strings of 10 the meanwell HLG 185-42 and just go with an ELN 60-48 for the 2 strings of 10.. The fixture on my 40B has the FEDY's on an HLG and then 20 Cree RBs on the ELN. I'm hearing the HLGs are hard to find right now but check around online. got mine from wattsupply.com
For two strings of 10 blue LEDs @max 700mA the ELN-60-40B will do just fine.
There's also a 40P version for PWM dimming.
For the 60 whites the driver should have an output of 4.2A
The best option would be the HLG 185-48B. With this driver you can run your LEDs @ 650mA which will be more than enough for a 700mA LED.
The MW HLG 150-36B could be an option too, the only thing is ... you have to run 9 LEDs in a string instead of 10. And yet another option is the HLG-150-42B, with this driver you can drive your LEDs at 600mA max.
I assume these LEDs from china are the so called "Fedy-LEDs" which run @ 700mA max. ( if not - skip the next)
One thing to keep in mind is to be careful not to overdrive these LEDs or they won't last even a month. You better be safe than sorry and drive these LEDs between 650mA and 690mA to be safe.
Now, those 6 strings of 10 LEDs need to be balanced to get the most out of the LEDs and the driver, which basically means; each string needs to be run at almost the same current, and in case of "Fedy-LEDs", anything between 650 and 690 will do, anything over 700 is a big no-no and a string below 630 could mean another string somewhere over 700mA. The driver couldn't care less, he's putting out the current anyway.
The best explanation how to balance multiple strings and test your rig you can find here.
Don't wanna be the "know it all from cheeseland" but the 42B puts out 4.4A which will burden the LEDs with 730mA,
you're sure the Fedy's can handle that kind of power?
.
brassmonkyballs
BMB
Yep...I tend to only comment on what I have actually done...I try anyways but not always successful. I am running 4 strings of the FEDYs off the 120-42 which puts out 2.9A so 725ma per string....same thing. As I have commented in the past they are terribly inefficient and get incredibly hot. However if you keep them cool its not an issue. i have yet to fry a FEDY....they are just inefficient critters. And I'm pretty sure all 3 of us have conversed on the FEDY thread where I let my feelings be known about the inefficiencies and the poor and likely dangerous drivers they were putting out...and subsequently got attacked.
All that said... as much as I cannot recommend those FEDY's I can honestly say the color i get out of them mixed with cree RBs, can not be duplicated with my All Cree rigs...it is stunning....its just a shame they are so inefficient. I wish Cree would put out higher K diodes....I'd tear my 120g rig apart for some 14000-18000k Crees.
So there! "know it all from cheeseland" :frog: :rollface:
As would I, and probably many others.
Isn't the inefficiency of those LEDs exactly the reason why you should stay below their maximum?
Balancing out the strings could help a lot too. Up and down swinging amps is not really appreciated by LEDs,
especially when they're already driven at -or very close to their max, I guess either Fedy's or Cree LEDs will have problems with that.
Regards,
"the wanna know it all":wavehand:
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brassmonkyballs
BMB
Yes, we should always balance strings of course and I agree its better to run them off their max...plus he has so many whites to RBs he will be dimming them back for sure. For me i found with those that 2-1 W-RB gets it done (opposite all Cree) nicely...he has 4-1...but yeah...if you want to be safe spec a driver that will drive them in the 500ma range so those tempted to crank them won't fry them....the HLG 185-54 would get them around 550ma it seems....
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