DIY LEDs - The write-up

[Jimmy54]

Jimmy IMHO the difference probably a solder joint somewhere that was bypassed when individual reading were taken. 0.5 volts / 1 amp means a 1/2 ohm of resistance somewhere. You had 0.31 at what current?

Sorry for the late response, I completely missed your reply.

According my spreadsheet, because I've balanced most of the RB strings incl that one, it was run at 796mA. (total Vf of 27,49)
Now its running at 770 after 3 hours with a total of 27.53 Vf
I didn't bother to measure through the string this time cause now all 8 RB strings are pretty steady within 762 and 779 mA with a total of 6.17A.
I'm happy with it, finally ready to finish the fixture, putting the lenses on the LEDs, getting the MW drivers in place, hook up the PWM controllers from RapidLed, get myself a bottle of beer from the fridge, lay back and enjoy the light.

And all of this thanks to you guys :beer:

 

[TheFishMan65]

I once asked the question if PWM would affect coral growth. Well we maybe getting closer to an answer.

 

[kcress]

I once asked the question if PWM would affect coral growth. Well we maybe getting closer to an answer.

Love how the guy's been a member for 3 years and today he posts his first two posts.

They're interesting ones too.

 

[TheHoove]

You can/should use an appropriate MeanWell(s) so you don't need scads of cords. More than one cord is probably not even legal code-wise but I don't recall. With the correct MeanWells or other brand drivers, you should never need more than one cord.

Explain this. If you have 3 colors each independantly dimable, you would need 3 cords, or run a bus bar or such, with all the drivers hooked together, then one cord powering the bus bar. Thats what I plan to do. I'm using 5 meanwells for my 60leds, Probably tied to 2 power cords.

 

[bsk997]

I had a quick question and was hoping somebody could help me.

I currently have 48 LEDs on a couple U Channels in my T5 fixture running off 4 ELN-60-48D with 12 LEDs per driver. I have 24 XRE RBs running at 750ma and 24 XPG CWs running at 1000ma.
What I was hoping to do is to reduce the number of drivers in 1/2. What’s a good driver to run 24 XRE RBs at 750ma and 24 XPG CWs at 1000ma?
What’s a good driver to run 36 XREs at 750ma and 36 XPG at 1000ma since I’m planning to upgrade soon? I might just bite the bullet and get the bigger driver now if it’s not much more.
Another reason I want to change/reduce drivers is that I plan to get the Apex controller and I’ve read that the EB8 socket can sometimes blow because of the inrush current problem on the ELN-60-48D drivers.
What’s everybody think of the Inventronics drivers vs the Meanwells?

Any input is greatly appreciated!

 

[brassmonkyballs]

I once asked the question if PWM would affect coral growth. Well we maybe getting closer to an answer.

I don't know. I can buy the science part of microalgae growth in the link but I can't buy cost savings with pwm or better coral growth. Seems the basis of the argument is that the plant processing light can't use all off the light anyhow and so "strobing" them produces the same growth...ie they only use what they can and not all available to them. I guess I question how that translates to our application other than minute cost savings. I think cost effective random cloud coverage schemes via controllers is better energy spent....unless you're a biologist. And you get similar minute savings via the dimming/on-off cycles.

 

[brassmonkyballs]

I had a quick question and was hoping somebody could help me.

I currently have 48 LEDs on a couple U Channels in my T5 fixture running off 4 ELN-60-48D with 12 LEDs per driver. I have 24 XRE RBs running at 750ma and 24 XPG CWs running at 1000ma.
What I was hoping to do is to reduce the number of drivers in 1/2. What’s a good driver to run 24 XRE RBs at 750ma and 24 XPG CWs at 1000ma?
What’s a good driver to run 36 XREs at 750ma and 36 XPG at 1000ma since I’m planning to upgrade soon? I might just bite the bullet and get the bigger driver now if it’s not much more.
Another reason I want to change/reduce drivers is that I plan to get the Apex controller and I’ve read that the EB8 socket can sometimes blow because of the inrush current problem on the ELN-60-48D drivers.
What’s everybody think of the Inventronics drivers vs the Meanwells?

Any input is greatly appreciated!

Take a look at the Meanwell HLG line.... the 150 & 185 would do it for you and allow for future growth.

 

[TheFishMan65]

Thanks BMB. I can see a 50% energy cost saving if it worked, but I don't think it does. They don't have a growth with 50% savings since all PAR was the same. In fact IMHO the extra growth used more energy then the other 2. Being interesting to see if there is any follow up over there.

bsk - look into the HLG series from Meanwell - I think that is what you are looking for.

 

[kcress]

Explain this. If you have 3 colors each independantly dimable, you would need 3 cords, or run a bus bar or such, with all the drivers hooked together, then one cord powering the bus bar. Thats what I plan to do. I'm using 5 meanwells for my 60leds, Probably tied to 2 power cords.

If you're referring to the ELN60s they're only 60W max. 180W is not much for 'a cord'. For various reasons you don't want to hook a double fist full of them up on one cord. But then there is NO good reason to ever use that many in a build anyway. If you need more than a couple you should be using the HLG series.


bsk997; I think the Inventronics also have in-rush. They're nice drivers too - I would always recommend you constrain yourself to the low voltage units and don't get caught up in the, "one big happy chain" mentality.

If you're going to try to run any drivers thru a controller you should probably use an external relay and not the internal one as inrush is severe.

 

[jkopp36]

Take a look at the Meanwell HLG line.... the 150 & 185 would do it for you and allow for future growth.

Hi Guys, I'm in pretty much the exact same boat as bsk and will end up with 36 XREs and 36 XPGs on a 72 LED build. Would you mind stating exactly which HLG drivers and how they would be stringed up? What I mean is which exact driver will I want for the XREs and how will they be stringed up - i.e. 3 parallel strings of 12, 2 parallel strings of 18, etc. and then the same info for the XPGs? I honestly have read through all of this and have a good handle on the wiring aspect but all these different drivers on these spec sheets is really confusing and overwhelming. Very much appreciated!

 

[TheHoove]

If you're referring to the ELN60s they're only 60W max. 180W is not much for 'a cord'. For various reasons you don't want to hook a double fist full of them up on one cord. But then there is NO good reason to ever use that many in a build anyway. If you need more than a couple you should be using the HLG series.

Ok. I can understand not doing 10 meanwells on a 120 led build and hooking them all together on one cord. I was just wondering. Are there options to run one driver and dim multiple colors? Or do you still need at least one driver per color?

I already ordered My kits from rapid anyways. So I'm ending up with 5 meanwells. 60 LEDS. I'm going to run 36 Royal Blues non dimable on 3 meanwell LPC. 14 Neutral white on 1 meanwell ELN. 5 cool white and 5 blues on another ELN. I was going to go all dimable, but I had to end up rebuilding my tranny in my truck, cutting into my led budget. But one my my bulbs is out now, so I had to do something. I may regret it, but I know I can go dimable later. And it seems alot of people end up running the blues almost full. I'm hoping with the other colors adjustable I can dial in the color I like.

Tank is 75g, 48x18x20ish. I'm doing a linear build on 3/4" channel, thats 7/8" on the outside. Still not sure If Im going to do 4 rows of 15sih or 5 rows of 12. And not quite sure on final layout.

I ordered with 60degree optics. But I may go no optics and run my fixture low. I like the look of a low fixture. Opinions? It would be good for color mixing, but what about par on the sand? My tank is mixed now, but want to go more SPS.

And as to the 10v supply for the diming, I have old model railroad transformers that If i recall correct gave out 0-18vdc. Could I set one to 10v and leave it?

 

[kcress]

Ok. I can understand not doing 10 meanwells on a 120 led build and hooking them all together on one cord. I was just wondering. Are there options to run one driver and dim multiple colors? Or do you still need at least one driver per color?

Good. Driver per color? The sad thing is that once you have the color you rarely change it. In reality if you were willing to do some trial and error you'd never really need a driver per color because you can certainly drive multiple colors with one driver. So all these people build multi-driver rigs when, in fact, they only care about independent color adjustment for a day or two.

I already ordered My kits from rapid anyways. So I'm ending up with 5 meanwells. 60 LEDS. I'm going to run 36 Royal Blues non dimable on 3 meanwell LPC. 14 Neutral white on 1 meanwell ELN. 5 cool white and 5 blues on another ELN. I was going to go all dimable, but I had to end up rebuilding my tranny in my truck, cutting into my led budget. But one my my bulbs is out now, so I had to do something. I may regret it, but I know I can go dimable later. And it seems alot of people end up running the blues almost full. I'm hoping with the other colors adjustable I can dial in the color I like.

That sounds like a fine plan.

And as to the 10v supply for the diming, I have old model railroad transformers that If i recall correct gave out 0-18vdc. Could I set one to 10v and leave it?

Umm, I don't think I would. Reason 1: Those are not really made for continuous duty. 2) If you ever bump or nudge that dial past 12V you will toast the drivers. 3) That transformer has a rubbing contact that can get flaky and cause problems. 4) Some of those are AC output - not DC.

 

[TheHoove]

The continous duty aspect was a concern. I know for a fact they are DC. Just always looking to use what I have laying around. But not worth the risk of hurting a driver.

 

[Jimmy54]

Hi Guys, I'm in pretty much the exact same boat as bsk and will end up with 36 XREs and 36 XPGs on a 72 LED build. Would you mind stating exactly which HLG drivers and how they would be stringed up? What I mean is which exact driver will I want for the XREs and how will they be stringed up - i.e. 3 parallel strings of 12, 2 parallel strings of 18, etc. and then the same info for the XPGs? I honestly have read through all of this and have a good handle on the wiring aspect but all these different drivers on these spec sheets is really confusing and overwhelming. Very much appreciated!

The Meanwell HLG 120-48B would be the one for 3 x 12 XR-Es (assuming they are the Royal blue's)
This driver will run the RBs at 800mA max which will be more than enough for the XR-E RB
You also could go with the HLG-150-54B; this one can run the RBs at 900mA and leave some room to add a couple of blues in a string later on if that's necessary (which I think it is)

The HLG-150-54B is also capable of running 36 XP-Gs (3x12) at 900mA. If you want to run them a little higher like 1100mA, you will need the HLG-150-48B.

Now, If you like the 16.000, 18.000 or even 20.000K look, you might want to reconsider the ratio CWs and RBs … if not, you probably will be OK.
The HLG 150 -54B drivers I have mentioned may give you some space to adjust the blues to get the color close to your likings, you can even add a few blues to a string, which I think you’re going to need.
I have just “finished” my fixture with 64 RBs and 56 whites, and I definitely need to add at least 18 more blues. The overall color looks good when I turn the XM-Ls down to 650mA and run the blues @ 760mA, it looks nice but there's not enough light. So adding the blues will give me the possibility to run the XM-Ls at approximately 800 or 900mA, which will illuminate tank a little more.

 

[jkopp36]

The Meanwell HLG 120-48B would be the one for 3 x 12 XR-Es (assuming they are the Royal blue's)
This driver will run the RBs at 800mA max which will be more than enough for the XR-E RB
You also could go with the HLG-150-54B; this one can run the RBs at 900mA and leave some room to add a couple of blues in a string later on if that's necessary (which I think it is)

The HLG-150-54B is also capable of running 36 XP-Gs (3x12) at 900mA. If you want to run them a little higher like 1100mA, you will need the HLG-150-48B.

Now, If you like the 16.000, 18.000 or even 20.000K look, you might want to reconsider the ratio CWs and RBs "¦ if not, you probably will be OK.
The HLG 150 -54B drivers I have mentioned may give you some space to adjust the blues to get the color close to your likings, you can even add a few blues to a string, which I think you're going to need.
I have just "œfinished" my fixture with 64 RBs and 56 whites, and I definitely need to add at least 18 more blues. The overall color looks good when I turn the XM-Ls down to 650mA and run the blues @ 760mA, it looks nice but there's not enough light. So adding the blues will give me the possibility to run the XM-Ls at approximately 800 or 900mA, which will illuminate tank a little more.

Thank you so much Jimmy! Exactly what I was looking for. Still gathering parts but hope to get started on it soon.

 

[Jimmy54]

Very nice Jimmy. Interested after you get it over the tank to hear about those XMLs.

Those XMLs put out a lot of light, maybe it's because I should have used more blue's, but runnig the XMLs any higher than 650mA adds too much yellow. And even with the CWs at 650mA, the blues at 760mA and the NWs at 500mA, these 120 LEDs give much, much more light than 8 x 80 watt T5.
The 16 NWs in the fixture, doing 500 mA at this stage, make the reds pop out and gives that white-golden, briljant color like the sun does.
The shimmering is awesome, I need to cover the top cause it's driving the wife nuts all those reflections on the ceiling.:spin2:

But I am not finished yet; the lenses are more like 20 or 30° instead of 80 like I ordered from satistronics. It's one beam straight down to the botom. The colors start to mix halfway down, so thats one thing I need to change.

Anyone using 80 or 90° lenses which are really what they are sold for? and please, where did you get them from?
I would be very grateful.

 

[bsk997]

Thanks for the suggestions guys.

So it looks like I'll need the HLG-120H-48B to drive 3 12LED strings of XRE RB at ~800ma.
And then it looks like I'll need the HLG-150H-48B to drive 3 12 LED strings of XPG CW at ~1000ma.
Does that sound right?
Will these have the inrush current problem the ELNs have?
Can I run just 2 12LED strings off those drivers for now till I get more LEDs?

The biggest question is where in the heck can I find these in stock?!?!

Take a look at the Meanwell HLG line.... the 150 & 185 would do it for you and allow for future growth.

 

[TheHoove]

WooHoo! Got my LED kits from rapid today.

For reference, a current tank shot:

That it a 2x65w PC fixture, a coralife 96w quad fixture, and a 3xfixture with spiral compacts.(serving back up, since my bulb died in my second 96w quad fixture.)

So one unanswered question im debating, optics or not. I got 60's with my kits. But im using an odd mix of colors, so I'm thinking no optics to help color blend. And running my fixture right off the water. But will no optics give enough light for eventual SPS? I may go no optics on only the odd colors.

 

[Tron87]

In my last build I use two 12v fans and wired them in parallel the first time around to my 24V power supply. I burnt them out and had to run them in series of course.

This time I will be using just one fan per each of my three modules of 12 LEDs. That's 36V but only a 24V power supply. I currently consider these to be my two best options for powering the fans

1) Run each fan by itself behind a 12V resistor. (I am an electrical noob and expect the many probably difficulties in that plan will be explained soon by the like of kcress or dwizm)

2) Run all three fans in series. Now on this one would the fans all take equal amounts of voltage and run at 8V, if so, would that be enough to actually even start the motors. OR, would the first two take all the voltage and leave the third with nothing?

3)I guess another option would just be to have a fourth fan wired in someplace so that they can be powered in pairs. Maybe the fourth on just blows on the sump and increases evaporative cooling?

Thoughts?

 

[Jimmy54]

Thanks for the suggestions guys.
So it looks like I'll need the HLG-120H-48B to drive 3 12LED strings of XRE RB at ~800ma.
And then it looks like I'll need the HLG-150H-48B to drive 3 12 LED strings of XPG CW at ~1000ma. Does that sound right?
Yes, but there are alternatives in anticipation of future upgrades on the rig

Will these have the inrush current problem the ELNs have?
Yep, the same inrush"problem" But I don't see problems with two or three drivers starting up with a 5-minute interval

Can I run just 2 12LED strings off those drivers for now till I get more LEDs?
It is possible, but it's risky, maybe too risky..
2.5A output for the 120-48B means 800+mA for 3 strings RBs. Two strings will get 1250mA each.
To prevent the LEDs - or the fuses - from blowing, you need to adjust the output way down before you switch on the driver,
and monitor the output going towards 800mA. These dimmable drivers don’t have the internal SRV pot to adjust the output like the ELN B series have, so you need to adjust the output like stated in the datasheet; by 1~10Vdc or PWM signal or 100K resistor.
The same goes for the HLG-150-48 and XP-Gs

The biggest question is where in the heck can I find these in stock?!?!
I have no idea. I got them from China and paid $100, - shipping for 3 drivers (2 HLG 150 and 1 HLG 185) But even then, they were cheaper than what I have to pay in Holland for these drivers, in this part of the world they are ridiculously expensive