DIY LEDs - The write-up

[TheHoove]

Some build pics. I ended up building a canopy to build the light into the make it look more finished. Sorry for the bad camera phone pics. Sad that my main hobby is photography and I didnt have my good camera with me. All thats left is to mount the LEDs and drivers and wire it.

Painted black to match my tank and stand. The channel is painted black except the LED mount surface. Better pics to follow as it comes together!

 

[oscar.millan]

Any kind souls out there able to help a reefing brother out? Looking for decent soldering equipment. Am I over analyzing this?

Hey guys, quick question... I'm wondering what people are using / what tools you would recommend for soldering.

I just placed my first order with RapidLED, so I have few days to purchase the soldering equipment.

I've heard great things about Weller. Any thoughts? Past experiences? Good and bad?

Thanks for the help guys, great thread.

 

[brassmonkyballs]

Any kind souls out there able to help a reefing brother out? Looking for decent soldering equipment. Am I over analyzing this?

Weller is fine. I use a 25-50 watt adjustable iron.

 

[CJO]

I use this one, as well as a few other people on here:
http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-937-Dig...0QBW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1311014362&sr=8-4

CJ

 

[TheFishMan65]

BMB don't know if you can answer this, but you seem most familiar with the HLG series. But anyone please.

Making up some numbers. Let say the HLG will put out 4 amps and I want to drive string at 1 amp (easy math ) . BUT suppose I want upgradability and I am really only starting with 2 strings. Could I place a 20k fixed resistor in series with the 20K pot (I think they recommend 20k). This would change the range from 0-20k to 20k-40k and would this keep the current at a max of half scale (2 amps).

Ok, maybe a 10k fixed and 10k would be better, but I think you get the idea.

This should be the same as only turning the pot up half way, but someone not knowing better might try and this might prevent the fuses from going.

 

[brassmonkyballs]

BMB don't know if you can answer this, but you seem most familiar with the HLG series. But anyone please.

Making up some numbers. Let say the HLG will put out 4 amps and I want to drive string at 1 amp (easy math ) . BUT suppose I want upgradability and I am really only starting with 2 strings. Could I place a 20k fixed resistor in series with the 20K pot (I think they recommend 20k). This would change the range from 0-20k to 20k-40k and would this keep the current at a max of half scale (2 amps).

Ok, maybe a 10k fixed and 10k would be better, but I think you get the idea.

This should be the same as only turning the pot up half way, but someone not knowing better might try and this might prevent the fuses from going.

I've never tried it Fishman but the range for resistor is 0-100k which is what I used...so i would think a 50k ohm pot would work just as you describe....http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062355

I think its a good idea to try if that's what you're after.

 

[TheFishMan65]

I have built fixture for a few folks, rather than telling them don't go above halfway (or whatever) I was looking for a save way to limit the current.

oops I remembered the range wrong - thanks.

 

[Jimmy54]

So if I understand correctly, the less resistance, the less amps?

Because I would have suggested a fixed 50K after the 100K pot.
Still learning.

 

[brassmonkyballs]

So if I understand correctly, the less resistance, the less amps?

Because I would have suggested a fixed 50K after the 100K pot.
Still learning.

Right so why not just a 50k pot?

 

[Jimmy54]

I have removed all the lenses from the LEDs.
Instead of 80 degree optics I had ordered from satistronic I think they gave me something like 30 or 40 degree lenses, so, been there, done that, never again.
Anyways, now the fixture is running without lenses ..... Man, that's a huge difference.
With lenses the light is much more sparkling, far more vibrant like the sun, nice looking shadows which enhance the overall contrast, that's all gone without lenses, can't wait to put the new lenses on from RapidLed.

 

[brassmonkyballs]

I have removed all the lenses from the LEDs.
Instead of 80 degree optics I had ordered from satistronic I think they gave me something like 30 or 40 degree lenses, so, been there, done that, never again.
Anyways, now the fixture is running without lenses ..... Man, that's a huge difference.
With lenses the light is much more sparkling, far more vibrant like the sun, nice looking shadows which enhance the overall contrast, that's all gone without lenses, can't wait to put the new lenses on from RapidLed.

I don't understand.... Is the shimmer missing without lenses? How high is the fixture? Just curious. I have no lenses and par readings and coral growth are great. But ive been thinking about putting them on and dialing back the output just because I have them and curious if the appearance might be different.

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

I don't understand.... Is the shimmer missing without lenses? How high is the fixture? Just curious. I have no lenses and par readings and coral growth are great. But ive been thinking about putting them on and dialing back the output just because I have them and curious if the appearance might be different.

Even going to the widest optics you can get, appearance will be very different. IMHO you should go ahead and do it. Optics make the light much more laminar, so everything gets much sharper - shadows look cleaner and better defined, contrast between light areas and dark areas goes up, and so on.

One thing I have noticed though, which seems to be somewhat of a common but subliminal thread in these discussions, is that you can't just rely on PAR readings when playing with optics vs. intensity. In other words, if you slap optics on bare LEDs and then turn intensity down to get the same PAR reading, the corals will probably still act like they've received a sudden increase in light.

 

[Jimmy54]

I don't understand.... Is the shimmer missing without lenses?
No, not at all, the shimmer is differend, it's a lot more nervous cause now it reflects from the blue background too.

How high is the fixture? Just curious.
20/21cm, that would be 8"

I have no lenses and par readings and coral growth are great. But ive been thinking about putting them on and dialing back the output just because I have them and curious if the appearance might be different.
Well, I guess it's how "The Power To Will" explains it.
I have to dail the resistors way up and still the overall intensity seems to be less, that's how it appears to me.
It's not so bad cause I'm used to it now after 3 days, but I'm not going to get used to the impression I got when I first switched on the power without the lenses.

 

[ef200098]

I followed this thread for my build, and they work great. Thanks!

 

[kcress]

Good to hear ef200098. Got any pictures?

 

[Reefobsession]

18"X18"X18" tall cube DIY LED build
I am leaning towards 18 to 24 LEDS. I would like a 18K to 20K look.
Should I stick with cree?
How does this sound?
10 CREE XP-E Blue 3W LED on star
7 CREE XP-E Royal Blue 3W LED on star
7 CREE XR-E Warm White 3W LED on Star
Two 2 Mean Well ELN-60-48P dimmable drivers
THen I am going to get two 4.5" X 9" heat sinks. I will probably spread them out a little but not to much.
What optics should I go with? 40 degrees. I want to keep SPS and Acans mostly.
What do you guys think?

 

[BPro32]

If I'm posting this in the wrong thread please let me know.

I'm currently looking into a 90 led kit from China and am a little skeptical about it (great price though). Here are the specs:


* 90 x 3 watts Bridgelux LED
* 90 x 60 degree optics
* 5 x constant current dimmable LED driver (100V-240V)
* 5 x potentiometer (control dimming)
* 5 x heatsink plaster
* 2 meter wire
* 20 x wire connector
* 5 x power cord

If this is decent I'm willing to go with it as I don't keep high light corals in my 90g. They sell 10k whites and 452-455nm royal blues. What blue to white ratio would I need to get an 18-20k look?

 

[Jimmy54]

The first "upgrade" to the fixture is at hand.

The picture is a bit darkned to make the difference in color - caused by the gap between two heatsinks more visable.
I think it's not really the gap rather than the lack of blue between two XM-L CWs on the edge of each heatsink what causes the difference.

The drawings made in sketchup will explain things a lot better than I can with my poor english.
Three drawings showing the current setup, the changes I have planned and the end result.
Instead of XP-E royal blue I want to use XP-E blue, thats because the red monti I have -and only the red monti looks washed out, and I blame the combination rb and XM-L cw for that.
I hope the XP-E blue LEDs will help to solve that problem and get some of that red color back.

Any comments or advice is more than welcom.

 

[bmwaaron]

Does anyone know where to get connectors for putting this stuff together? I was going to use a 185-42B meanwell driver and was thinking about a Molex connector. I need to have a connector for 4 wires into the lights.
All I can find is Amp specs for molex connectors but no voltage specs.

 

[brassmonkyballs]

The only thing I can add you probably already know but the RB operate in the 450nm range and the blues are above 465nm...we are told the 450 is the important one.....

One thing I have come to accept is that some things just look different under LEDs but still look good to me...and the growth has not been an issue.

Your picture looks great btw.

The first "upgrade" to the fixture is at hand.

The picture is a bit darkned to make the difference in color - caused by the gap between two heatsinks more visable.
I think it's not really the gap rather than the lack of blue between two XM-L CWs on the edge of each heatsink what causes the difference.

The drawings made in sketchup will explain things a lot better than I can with my poor english.
Three drawings showing the current setup, the changes I have planned and the end result.
Instead of XP-E royal blue I want to use XP-E blue, thats because the red monti I have -and only the red monti looks washed out, and I blame the combination rb and XM-L cw for that.
I hope the XP-E blue LEDs will help to solve that problem and get some of that red color back.

Any comments or advice is more than welcom.