DIY LEDs - The write-up

Status
Not open for further replies.
neelix,

Those supplies do not go as low as 750mA.
Therefore you would need to run LED strings in parallel.

Not a good solution, but it would work.

read the posts above about parallel strings to understand why.

Stu
 
neelix & luisagos,

I looked again and the ELN-60-48 could drive about 12 CREE 3W Leds. They are ~$35.

It has internal Voltage & Current adjustment.
I assume this adjusts the MAX & I bet you can get below the 1.0A max of the typical 3W LEDs.

Then you are correct, you can dim down to the target range of 500-750 mA.

So a panel 4"X5" could hold 12X 3W LEDs and be a total of 36 Watts with one driver.

you can then dim it with a potentiometer or PWM.

Stu
 
I been trying to decide to build my own LED Lights or buy the AI system.

My problem is my tank is 6ft long, so according to AI I need to spend $3600.
If you play with AI light calculator, it kind of proves that I could use 3 modules instead of the 6 they say I need.

If I put them in series instead of the recommend parallel, according to the light calculator it should be good enough.


http://www.aquaillumination.com/calc.html

Trying to find a good PS with 0-10v dimming has been an effort.
Only if these power supply current weren't so high, if i use these, then i would lose like 30% of the scaling.


Edit: I got the scaling backwards.
 
Last edited:
i think i'm gonna do mine like you suggested in the previous moonlights thread & attach my LEDs w/ 6-32 machine screws & probably plastic washers for the screwheads. then regular old computer cpu thermal paste between them & the aluminum bar heatsink. that way if one goes bad, i can take it off easily

i just need to get the screws, plastic washers & a drill & tap tomorrow

yay.....ANOTHER trip to home depot
:rolleye1:
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14801667#post14801667 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kcress
obet_carlos; Sorry I couldn't resist a line like that. :D

You need to be n\more specific though. Nothing we are talking about here has any iron in it. Rust means the "oxidation of iron". So you see we're at a bit of a loss in answering your question.

If you mean 'corrosion', we would all be worried a bit about that. LED hoods are too expensive to allow much salt water contact. Most of them will be running so warm that no moisture will normally condense on them.

If you have spashy fish then something would need to be done.

no worries.. then corrosion it is..
i have a few blue cree xr-e that i am using for actinics.. and the ring around glass part is starting to have some corrosion.. is it recommended to add a thin clear acrylic sheet it between the LEDs and the water?
 
Washaufizzi; I get nervous whenever I see statements like "Zero energy conversion loss".

Makes me wonder what other specsmanship games they're playing.
 
As far as I could tell from glancing at the spec, is that the light itself is being produced at the 50/60 Hz that AC runs at. And without the onboard electronics to actually turn AC into DC, this is probably the case as far as I know.

So the two primary advantages would be slightly better lumenosity, and not having to spend money on a DC transformer. The otherwise truth is, though, that converting from AC to DC doesn't consume that much electricity. And I wonder how easy it would be to control the brightness on those things?

So in contrast to my initial reaction, the AC LEDs, though cool and probably more energy efficient than DC LEDs, are actually not a whole lot better.
 
"Washaufizzi; I get nervous whenever I see statements like "Zero energy conversion loss".

Makes me wonder what other specsmanship games they're playing."

I think it was just a reference to the lack of loss from AC/DC only. A fair enough statement I think.

I have been surprised that between this thread and the previous one, there has not been any discussion about Seoul Semi's LED's. I am about ready to jump in with my 72"x18"x20" build a soon as I talk to my buddy who is a Reg. Sales rep for Phillips and see if I can get some toys to start playing with.

Any ideas on how to work around the 20" glass support in the middle? I'm thinking of Lagoon on one end with a Pen. on the other and leaving the middle open. The light would need to reach the bottom underneath the support and I am unsure how much loss will occur in that area.

Great thread BTW.... thanks.
 
Here's my official complaint against WWW.LEDSUPPLY.COM to my Credit Card company:

I placed an order with www.ledsupply.com on April 2nd, 2009 for the following items:

1. Cree Royal Blue XR-E Star LED (CREEXRE-RB) - 25 QTY, $7.18 each
2. 3023-D-E-700P Wired BuckPuck DC Powered w/Potentiometer , 700mA Output. (03023-D-E-700P) - 8 QTY, $19.99 each
3. 20mm Ripple Wide Carclo Lens for Cree XR-E Star LEDs (10211) - 48 QTY, $1.23 each
4. Carclo Cree Star Lens Holder (10425) - 48 QTY, $0.22 each

On April 4th, 2009, I received the package from United States Postal Service with only the following item:

3. 20mm Ripple Wide Carclo Lens for Cree XR-E Star LEDs (10211) - 48 QTY, $1.23 each

Long story short (this all took place in a week's timeframe), the merchant deliberated and concluded that he will not offer my parts as per my order.

He gave me possible explanations, such as either I was a liar, or my delivery box was tampered by the United States Postal Service, though the box clearly had no signs of tampering. In addition, he asserted that his shipping/packaging processes are full-proof. He stated that he packaged the order himself, therefore no mistake could have happened.

He offered what seems to be a 50% discount on my missing parts, but I respectfully declined. I was not going to pay for something that I just already paid or be ripped off by him again. I argued my case again, and then he plainly called me liar. I now feel I have been scammed, and I have done nothing wrong.

Also, they also don't have a return policy, but either way, I didn't get anything, so I don't have anything to return.

So with that being said, order from them at your risk. If they screw up your order, you will lose your money.

From your perspective, is there anything else I can do to get my money back (I already submitted to my CC company). Any other processes I should follow?

Thanks all. What a bad experience. :-(
 
it may have been fool-proof, but not DeeDeeDee-proof.
Must've been shipped on monday morning or friday evening.

it's crappy vendors like that that make you not want to buy things online.

you can always complain to the BBB, it might not help, but it sure can't hurt.
 
Mine was all there and accounted for. I'm sorry you had a bad experience. Truely, I wonder what happened there. Most of the time, when you talk to the guy that packed it himself, then you're dealing with a small company and they do work a bit harder to please their customer base than say a large corporation.

Either way, I'm sorry you had that experience.
 
Wow that's a lot of money to lose. I'm guessing if he doesn't have extra of those laying around, then someone else got them in the mail.

Who knows what his profit margin is, but there's no doubt his company would take a smaller loss (maybe half as much?) than you are if he just sent you replacements.

If the box doesn't appear to have been tampered with, I suppose it could have been that the delivery guy opened the box, took the good stuff, and repackaged the lenses to deliver to you. It might be worth a shot just to email ledsupply a picture of the box you received to see if it is even their box...
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top