DIY LEDs - The write-up

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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14685262#post14685262 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Pufferlips
I am doing 20x20x16 Acrylic rimless reef tank and was wondering what would some of you choose for lighting it up?
:)
Click to expand...

We're all just learning here. I'm not sure anybody has a clear recipe yet. I sure wouldn't want to suggest anything in particular at this point. I think you will need to read this whole thread thru and thru. When you reach an understanding of what's here you will then feel confident enough to try something.

Start with the excellent top project that Soundwave provided. Scale it to what your needs are.
 
Kcress - I read the whole thread, but I'm not the most technical person, so I must have missed this as well.

Can you help me understand this a little bit better as well? thanks.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14686196#post14686196 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kcress
Have you read this thread in its entirety? I kinda thought we were pretty clear on this - above.

There are numerous reasons.
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Ok Guys if I do this way I can have them run from 2 x 200 watts LED drivers (not power supply)

Connectiondrawing01.jpg


Or if I driver them from 4 x 100 watts LED drivers (not power supply then it will look like this.
Conectiondrawing02.jpg


Any comments am I still on the wrong path?
 
fernandokng,

1) at the bottom of the page, click "show printable version"
2) once that loads, click "Show all 463 posts from this thread on one page" (this is on the top right near the page numbers and prev next

3) Press Ctrl+F
4) Type "Parallel"
5) hit "next" until you get a post that explains it.

Searching in this way brought me to the answer you want in about 10 seconds. Theres more said on the subject, just search for it in this thread. This method of searching a whole thread has always been better for me than using the RC search or google with keywords (If I know something is in fact in the thread)

This always sounds logical..... unfortunately it's kind of hard to explain but if you have two branches of 6 LEDs in parallel and each branch requires say 1 Amp you would have to supply two Amps to the circuit. The Buck Puck is a constant current source so it will divide it's 1 Amp into the two branches so it will only supply 500 mA to each branch. I hope this makes sense.

There is another problem with parallel circuit in that if you could supply two Amps to the circuit and if an LED fails and the circuit is opened on one branch the current has to go somewhere so it flows in the other branch. That means 2 Amps will be flowing though that other branch resulting in a big cloud of smoke.
Click to expand...
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14687760#post14687760 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ReefEnabler
fernandokng,

1) at the bottom of the page, click "show printable version"
2) once that loads, click "Show all 463 posts from this thread on one page" (this is on the top right near the page numbers and prev next

3) Press Ctrl+F
4) Type "Parallel"
5) hit "next" until you get a post that explains it.

Searching in this way brought me to the answer you want in about 10 seconds. Theres more said on the subject, just search for it in this thread. This method of searching a whole thread has always been better for me than using the RC search or google with keywords (If I know something is in fact in the thread)
Click to expand...

Thanks a bunch for this Ryan!
I never knew this.. :eek2:
 
Hopefully this 'secret' doesn't spread too fast and we crash RC by all opening entire threads from now on :D j/k

actually its a pain in the behind to actually read a thread like that, but handy for searching, especially if you're scanning a big thread for a picture you recall.
 
tahiriqbal; You need to read that same passage ReefEnabler just put up.. I don't think you're understanding the hazard of parallel LEDs especially high power LEDs.

If you build any of those diagrams you risk major failures on a regular basis. The more strings in parallel the more likely you will hook up an unmatched group. That group will either hog current or shunt current to the other strings overloading them.

Very likely some of those strings would give poor performance from the minute you turned that on. You would see really bright strings and dim strings. (poor performance) The bright ones would be rapidly degrading the dim ones would be waiting their turn to fail.

You also run the risk of a fire with HPLEDs and that much drive spread over parallel chains.

To do it correctly - use a driver per chain .
 
The way Soundwave LEDs are set up, they are in series - so if one blows out, the full row of LEDs shuts off, but saving the other bulbs from burning out.

How do you replace the bulb if the LED is permantly expoxied to the Heatsink?
 
You shouldn't use epoxy under the whole surface of the star mount, there should be thermal grease under most of the center.

If using epoxy I'd suggest it only go around the edges, and then it would be easy to just slip a razor blade around the parimeter and pop it off, and another would fit right in there.
 
I wonder about adding Aluminum powder to epoxy resin, which I've heard can increase the thermal conductivity.... anybody here try that?
 
I would suggest using a phase change material under the star and then screwing the star to the heatsink.

The phase change material can be purchased from any electronics store or ebay.
It is what is suggested to put under CPU heatsinks.
It is even better than the thermal grease.

The Stars are meant to be screwed down.
That is why they are the shape they are.
Four screws would be fine.

If one burns out, it would take 5 minutes with a soldering iron to replace one.

Stu
 
I'll be screwing mine down (gotta use those taps for something!) but was just speculating. I did read a DIY once where somebody used epoxy and thermal grease on a star... I guess to avoid having to tap the heatsink?

I'll look into that phase change material. But I already have some thermal grease, is it really worth going for the better stuff here?
 
I've only ever screwed them down. I got away with two screws per.

A real pain to tap all the holes though. :)
 
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