DIY LEDs - The write-up
- Thread starter Soundwave
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jubjub
New member
btw i wanna say i voted for this TOTM and gotten me quite excited about trying a LED setup mostly for cost of electricity, and bulbs over the years.... seeems like a very good investment...
also soundwave, i notice you have some monti caps/SPS in your tank other then the green cap mysteriously bleeching any other problems with highlight corals.
also soundwave, i notice you have some monti caps/SPS in your tank other then the green cap mysteriously bleeching any other problems with highlight corals.
ReefEnabler
Premium Member
why not use nylon screws... would the heatsink really get too hot for them??
fernandokng
New member
This was my question as well...
It's harder to take off if the bulbs blow out, but so much easier than drilling all these holes no?
It's harder to take off if the bulbs blow out, but so much easier than drilling all these holes no?
ReefEnabler
Premium Member
I wasn't expecting to have to tigthen them down much at all... wouldn't just snug suffice? I've tightened some nylon thumbscrews pretty darn tight before to stop leaks on o-rings and never had an issue...
I dont know if self tapping would create a clean enough hole to use over and over? I think tapping properly gives a much better result thats not as likely to become stripped.
I dont know if self tapping would create a clean enough hole to use over and over? I think tapping properly gives a much better result thats not as likely to become stripped.
fernandokng
New member
Someone mentioned this a lot earlier in the thread - Anyone opinion on using TIM (Thermal Interface Material)
Posted by Canoe on 03/03/2009 07:17 AM:
quote:
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Originally posted by stugray
...
One thing I would ask, is have you tried to remove a star from the heatsink after using that epoxy? Do they Pop right off with a screwdriver? ... My plan was to use heat sink 'compound' and screw ( instead of glue ) the stars to the heat sink. It would make future replacements much quicker & easier. ...
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I don't know how Reef-Safe the thermal compound/paste would be. Some even have copper or silver. And paste has problems with degraded performance due to air voids forming with thermal cycling. Twelve hours full on, twelve hours of "moon"? If you had the stars held on with springs of some sort (instead of fixed fasteners, like screws or bolts) the springs can take up the slack when the paste expands/contracts with thermal cycling, so air voids within the paste are somewhat minimized.
There is an alternative. It transfers heat better than thermal epoxy, doesn't have the mess or thermal cycling problems of paste, easier to use and can't leak into the tank.
TIM (Thermal Interface Material) is available as sheets similar to double sided tape. Sissors or an exacto knife cuts it to size and shape, then peel one side and sitck it to the LED star, then stick the star in place and secure it with your screws
Posted by Canoe on 03/03/2009 07:17 AM:
quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by stugray
...
One thing I would ask, is have you tried to remove a star from the heatsink after using that epoxy? Do they Pop right off with a screwdriver? ... My plan was to use heat sink 'compound' and screw ( instead of glue ) the stars to the heat sink. It would make future replacements much quicker & easier. ...
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I don't know how Reef-Safe the thermal compound/paste would be. Some even have copper or silver. And paste has problems with degraded performance due to air voids forming with thermal cycling. Twelve hours full on, twelve hours of "moon"? If you had the stars held on with springs of some sort (instead of fixed fasteners, like screws or bolts) the springs can take up the slack when the paste expands/contracts with thermal cycling, so air voids within the paste are somewhat minimized.
There is an alternative. It transfers heat better than thermal epoxy, doesn't have the mess or thermal cycling problems of paste, easier to use and can't leak into the tank.
TIM (Thermal Interface Material) is available as sheets similar to double sided tape. Sissors or an exacto knife cuts it to size and shape, then peel one side and sitck it to the LED star, then stick the star in place and secure it with your screws
Congrats on the TOTM nomination! Voted!
I've been following this thread since the beginning, taking notes and designing my own LED light. Thank you so much everyone! (Soundwave especially!) I'm hoping to build my LED system after we move this summer. In the meantime this thread has been fantastic. I've also found great information at this nano-reef thread. Evilc66 has awesomely outlined many available options for LEDs, drivers, heatsinks, wiring, and much more.
Preview:
For my build I'm planning a 3' design like Soundwaves with two pods, but wider with 30 Cree XR-E (Royal Blue and Cool White) on each pod and 10 buckpucks. Notable adjustments/enhancement to "The Soundwave" are:
- dimmable, maybe
- drilled, taped, screwed LEDs
- wires run through drill holes into the heatsink fins.
- 60 degree optics, or 40 TBD
- a couple UV LEDs
- Integrated moonlights
Comments, suggestions, gripes welcome! My own thread coming when I get started.
I'm looking forward to reading about other peoples plans and trials. Hopefully I can add as much as I learn!
- Eric
I've been following this thread since the beginning, taking notes and designing my own LED light. Thank you so much everyone! (Soundwave especially!) I'm hoping to build my LED system after we move this summer. In the meantime this thread has been fantastic. I've also found great information at this nano-reef thread. Evilc66 has awesomely outlined many available options for LEDs, drivers, heatsinks, wiring, and much more.
Preview:
For my build I'm planning a 3' design like Soundwaves with two pods, but wider with 30 Cree XR-E (Royal Blue and Cool White) on each pod and 10 buckpucks. Notable adjustments/enhancement to "The Soundwave" are:
- dimmable, maybe
- drilled, taped, screwed LEDs
- wires run through drill holes into the heatsink fins.
- 60 degree optics, or 40 TBD
- a couple UV LEDs
- Integrated moonlights
Comments, suggestions, gripes welcome! My own thread coming when I get started.
I'm looking forward to reading about other peoples plans and trials. Hopefully I can add as much as I learn!
- Eric
Sisterlimonpot
Premium Member
congrats on TOTM nomination. Got my vote
Soundwave
New member
OK. I tried optics just to satisfy my curiosity. I used the carclo wide ripple optics from LEDsupply and they made the fixture far far far far far far far brighter. I couldn't stand to look at it. However, I placed it over my tank a full 12 inches from the water surface only to be disappointed. It looked like someone had two huge spotlights over the tank. Not cool. I don't want to raise the fixture any higher so I took off every single lens that I just spent two hours installing.
If anyone plans on using optics, you may need to raise the fixture at least two feet off the water surface. This almost defeats the purpose.
Thought I would let everyone know.
If you want a decent spread, go without them.
Great on paper, not so much in real life.
If anyone plans on using optics, you may need to raise the fixture at least two feet off the water surface. This almost defeats the purpose.
Thought I would let everyone know.
If you want a decent spread, go without them.
Great on paper, not so much in real life.
kcress
New member
I don't think self tapping screws would work well on this application. Just my feeling from using ST screws on various things.
ejmitch; Looks like a plan. From Soundwave's experience maybe the 60 degree optics as apposed to the 40s. Ideally you would never get any light put on the glass. It helps it disappear and greatly reduces algae growth on it.
fernandokng's spring hold-downs would be really nice.. Where do I buy them? Dang.
Ryan; I wouldn't use nylon on something this hot and long running. Also a accidental dismount would be really bad. You don't need much pressure as you point out.
Soundwave; I think stugray's perimeter suggestion is excellent. I bet your viewing would be improved.
ejmitch; Looks like a plan. From Soundwave's experience maybe the 60 degree optics as apposed to the 40s. Ideally you would never get any light put on the glass. It helps it disappear and greatly reduces algae growth on it.
fernandokng's spring hold-downs would be really nice.. Where do I buy them? Dang.
Ryan; I wouldn't use nylon on something this hot and long running. Also a accidental dismount would be really bad. You don't need much pressure as you point out.
Soundwave; I think stugray's perimeter suggestion is excellent. I bet your viewing would be improved.
Beaun
It's pronounced Bone
I would suggest getting the thermal epoxy (arctic silver or whatever) and Fans for cooling from newegg.com if you cant get them locally. We dont really have computer shops around here. Newegg.com will give you the best prices, great reviews and info on products, and have great customer service. you can look at the specifications for fans and find very quite ones that would be perfect for this appliction (no real need for high RPM's).
I'm very interested in doing this myself, seeing it step by step makes me more and more interested in it.
I'm very interested in doing this myself, seeing it step by step makes me more and more interested in it.
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ReefEnabler
Premium Member
So I am thinking of ordering some of these after Stu's advice, intersting how they're solid at room temperature.
http://www.thermalfx.com/merchant2/...Code=T725&Category_Code=THERCOMP&Store_Code=T
It's funny... I remember a looong time ago when I was doing alot of DIY computer overclocking and trying out different heatsinks... I had a heatsink, some of the thermaltake heatsinks came with this stuff on it. What'd I do?? Removed it and used thermal greese
Had no idea what it was 
But still my 600mhz AMD Duron ran at 1 ghz for years without issue that was a fun easy DIY - all it needed was a pencil
http://www.thermalfx.com/merchant2/...Code=T725&Category_Code=THERCOMP&Store_Code=T
It's funny... I remember a looong time ago when I was doing alot of DIY computer overclocking and trying out different heatsinks... I had a heatsink, some of the thermaltake heatsinks came with this stuff on it. What'd I do?? Removed it and used thermal greese
Had no idea what it was But still my 600mhz AMD Duron ran at 1 ghz for years without issue
that was a fun easy DIY - all it needed was a pencil
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