DIY LEDs - The write-up
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Soundwave
New member
If I could find a nice arch piece, I would gladly take that rock out. I needed something to span across the two pillars and that one seemed to fit. I have a K3 behind that rockwork blowing through the opening just underneath the white rock. The amount of flow I have now with only 3 K3s is pretty amazing. I don't think I'll ever go back to piling rock against the back wall.
As with any new aquascape, I just need to find the right coral to cover any part I don't like. There is a pink monti frag on top of the white rock that I would like to find a better home for as it's really nice looking. I just wish it would grow as fast as my orange monti. That thing is bullet proof. I've broken it many times and each broken piece seems to recover in a few days and start growing like mad.
I'll keep updating as time progresses.
As with any new aquascape, I just need to find the right coral to cover any part I don't like. There is a pink monti frag on top of the white rock that I would like to find a better home for as it's really nice looking. I just wish it would grow as fast as my orange monti. That thing is bullet proof. I've broken it many times and each broken piece seems to recover in a few days and start growing like mad.
I'll keep updating as time progresses.
ReefEnabler
Premium Member
Here are some things he said earlier:
Given that "Coronodo" is clearly written in the CUSTOMER field on the info slips next to those LEDs above.... it pretty clear that Coronodo is paying Furuier to manufacture the LEDs and they plan to rebrand them as their own. And he wants to use you as a pay-free consultant in the process.
Why not just be upfront about it???? Why the stories to make us believe they are manufacturing dies? If the chinese company was only making the starboards like he claims, then there wouldn't be lumen output or current/vf info on those slips.
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Dante_JoseCuerv
New member
Please guys, Soundwave and Melev are right, just chill out. This is a great thread and I don't wanna see it die.
The thread will persist, but we'll be quite cranky if we have to roll through 30 pages of posts eliminating commercial bias, etc.
troylee
In Memoriam
Well back on topic of this enourmous thread.....I have been trying to follow it but the posts just keep pouring in and I can't lol......anyways I'm thinking about going the route stu suggested with 3w leds over my aquapod since it is a little cheaper than lighting my 220.......I have a maxima clam in there.....does anyone have any hands on exp. With this lighting over a clam???? And what ratio of white to blue would be ideal? I can see from all the posts they bleach sps of all things lol......so I can't see it being a problem for a healthy clam.......tia.
widmer
Drug Enthusiast
james - it's great that you want to give stuff away and help someone out, alas it can't take place in this thread.
Again,
If what you have to say has anything to do with the transfer of goods or intent to produce something for sale etc, it is best left for PM or transaction forums
Please don't try to walk the tightrope with this thread guys, it'd be a pity if anyone gets it closed because I know I've learned a lot in this one.
Again,
If what you have to say has anything to do with the transfer of goods or intent to produce something for sale etc, it is best left for PM or transaction forums
Please don't try to walk the tightrope with this thread guys, it'd be a pity if anyone gets it closed because I know I've learned a lot in this one.
Soundwave
thanks for the write up and pics. Your tank with the blue LED's looks AMAZING!! this has given me great hope in cutting down my electrical bill in my 110g tank once I pick it up. It's a long read so I'll have to go back and read the whole thing!
Edit: We have profanity filters for a reason. - Scott
thanks for the write up and pics. Your tank with the blue LED's looks AMAZING!! this has given me great hope in cutting down my electrical bill in my 110g tank once I pick it up. It's a long read so I'll have to go back and read the whole thing!
Edit: We have profanity filters for a reason. - Scott
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Folks,
Sales, trades, manufacturers, assemblers, looking to move stuff and just about anything else outside of the discussion of the technology, how to's, trouble shooting, etc., belongs somewhere else.
It really is a simple rule, please follow it.
Thanks,
Scott
Edit...I was in a rush working too hard, lets see if the above is more clear.
Sales, trades, manufacturers, assemblers, looking to move stuff and just about anything else outside of the discussion of the technology, how to's, trouble shooting, etc., belongs somewhere else.
It really is a simple rule, please follow it.
Thanks,
Scott
Edit...I was in a rush working too hard, lets see if the above is more clear.
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troylee
In Memoriam
so does anyone have any exp. with these led's over a high light demanding clam????i can't wait to expereiment with these light's but i don't want to jepordize any live stock.....you think i would know more about them since i work with them everyday in the sign trade but they mostly come on a roll we lick and stick em in the signs and by by. lol....
well to all that have contributed to this thread thanks a million i have learned alot.......but im really concerend about my clam and it's my baby i don't wanna lose it.........
well to all that have contributed to this thread thanks a million i have learned alot.......but im really concerend about my clam and it's my baby i don't wanna lose it.........
ReefEnabler
Premium Member
It's just about impossible to photo-inhibit a Tridacnid, particularly Croceas. I dont think theres any reason to doubt that the spectrum of LEDs is incapable of sustaining a clam... as long as sufficient PAR values are achieved.
If you wanted to really push some light into it, why not put optics on the LEDs in that area, or a small cluster of LEDs directly over the clam? With the right optics you could give the clam as much light as you want without too much of a "hotspot" visible in the tank.
edit: actually all you have to do with optics is raise them from the LED and it will focus the light more.
I was experimenting with some 60 degree cheap optics earlier today. With the optics about 2" away I was able to basically turn the LED into a laser pointer, and the image of the LED die was projected perfectly onto the cieling, extremely bright. Move it all the way down and nice wide beam.
If you dont know exactly what size optics you need... get some cheap wide angle ones so you can custom mount them and play with the height to get the right focus.
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.13702
If you wanted to really push some light into it, why not put optics on the LEDs in that area, or a small cluster of LEDs directly over the clam? With the right optics you could give the clam as much light as you want without too much of a "hotspot" visible in the tank.
edit: actually all you have to do with optics is raise them from the LED and it will focus the light more.
I was experimenting with some 60 degree cheap optics earlier today. With the optics about 2" away I was able to basically turn the LED into a laser pointer, and the image of the LED die was projected perfectly onto the cieling, extremely bright. Move it all the way down and nice wide beam.
If you dont know exactly what size optics you need... get some cheap wide angle ones so you can custom mount them and play with the height to get the right focus.
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.13702
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widmer
Drug Enthusiast
Does anyone have any experience with these optics?
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1920
No they're not contraceptives ;-)
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1920
No they're not contraceptives ;-)
widmer
Drug Enthusiast
Reefenabler-
1. Do you suppose then that I could use those lenses you have pointed out, to create a spread of light that is ~10 inches in diameter at 6 foot distance? If you have done this, would you be able to describe the overall shape of the light and if there are any hotspots?
2. Was there any light spilling out whatsoever aside from the beam that you projected when you use those lenses?
1. Do you suppose then that I could use those lenses you have pointed out, to create a spread of light that is ~10 inches in diameter at 6 foot distance? If you have done this, would you be able to describe the overall shape of the light and if there are any hotspots?
2. Was there any light spilling out whatsoever aside from the beam that you projected when you use those lenses?
ReefEnabler
Premium Member
I just took some pics at various distances. I was just holding the optic in place by hand as I haven't figured out exactly how to mount it (perhaps aluminum tube and just epoxy the lens onto it?). Forgive the crudeness...
LED is on couch aiming up, ~6.5' from ceiling, camera is very close to the LED.
Luxeon III Star Royal Blue, 340mW @ 700ma
60 degree optics http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4628
Optic resting on the Luxeon:
spreading about 5-6 feet looks like
This was me holding the optics about 1" away, trying to get the smoothest small spot I could get... holding by hand introduces some artifacts because of the shape of the die and it being impossible to perfectly center and hold straight etc.... But that spot looks like around 12"
Go any further and you get a projection of the DIE itself that's about 6" in diameter.
yes, thats a picture of the light cast on the ceiling that looks exactly like a blown up DIE.... pretty neat :bum:
If it was mounted perfectly perpendicular and centered exactly with the die, then it would be able to provide fairly smooth spotlight at smaller FOVs.... but since I was holding the optic by hand there's some distortions.
You just cant get too small without a projection... I'm guessing that's what makes diffuser-style optics better for narrow beams???? I wish I would have ordered some when I placed my dealextreme order so I could compare the brightness of the two.
There doesn't appear to be any bleeding outside the optics.... the photo shows some..... but thats only because the rest of the LEDs on that series were covered up with some pieces of paper for this "experiment" :lol:
LED is on couch aiming up, ~6.5' from ceiling, camera is very close to the LED.
Luxeon III Star Royal Blue, 340mW @ 700ma
60 degree optics http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4628
Optic resting on the Luxeon:
spreading about 5-6 feet looks like
This was me holding the optics about 1" away, trying to get the smoothest small spot I could get... holding by hand introduces some artifacts because of the shape of the die and it being impossible to perfectly center and hold straight etc.... But that spot looks like around 12"
Go any further and you get a projection of the DIE itself that's about 6" in diameter.
yes, thats a picture of the light cast on the ceiling that looks exactly like a blown up DIE.... pretty neat :bum:
If it was mounted perfectly perpendicular and centered exactly with the die, then it would be able to provide fairly smooth spotlight at smaller FOVs.... but since I was holding the optic by hand there's some distortions.
You just cant get too small without a projection... I'm guessing that's what makes diffuser-style optics better for narrow beams???? I wish I would have ordered some when I placed my dealextreme order so I could compare the brightness of the two.
There doesn't appear to be any bleeding outside the optics.... the photo shows some..... but thats only because the rest of the LEDs on that series were covered up with some pieces of paper for this "experiment" :lol:
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james3370
Premium Member
so for my 29 build i am doing (5) 1watt blues on a 350mA dimmable buckpuck for moonlights & (5) 3watt whites on a 500mA standard buckpuck for t5 "shiller" supplementation.
they will be mounted 4-5" from the water surface & the tank is about 17" deep. for the heatsink, i am using a piece of 1.5" x 1/8" aluminum stock that is 30" long
i guess 1 white & 1 blue together, evenly spaced the length of the tank down the center between (2) of the (4) t5s would be the best layout??? or should i stagger then front & back instead of all on centerline of the tank??
they will be mounted 4-5" from the water surface & the tank is about 17" deep. for the heatsink, i am using a piece of 1.5" x 1/8" aluminum stock that is 30" long
i guess 1 white & 1 blue together, evenly spaced the length of the tank down the center between (2) of the (4) t5s would be the best layout??? or should i stagger then front & back instead of all on centerline of the tank??
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