DIY- "Pins" method of gluing acrylic.

Swedge- thanks, i got that idea from the Calfo overflow , but my teeth are not across the whole side . melev / acrylics- I was glueinga small brace on the tank near the overflow, while the tank is half full of saltwater. really smart ,
I know. A very small run of #4 ran into the tank water. How bad is that? Will it harm my corals when i load the tank in a few days?
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8433218#post8433218 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by highquality
Swedge- thanks, i got that idea from the Calfo overflow , but my teeth are not across the whole side . melev / acrylics- I was glueinga small brace on the tank near the overflow, while the tank is half full of saltwater. really smart ,
I know. A very small run of #4 ran into the tank water. How bad is that? Will it harm my corals when i load the tank in a few days?

MY guess is it isn't a problem, because some reef tanks have been mended with Weld-On while the livestock was still inside. Try not to add any more though. ;)
 
Agree w/ Marc on that - won't be a problem. I've done <ahem> much worse with no ill effects though I wouldn't necessarily recommend it.

James
 
Hey James, do you ever have a bad can of Weld-On #4? My last can acted like every other can, but the seams looked horrible to me (I'm my own worst critic). I opened a new can last night, and every seam looks amazing. I had no idea it could be such a difference.

Here I thought all along I wasn't prepping the edges well enough, etc...

Then again, the weather is beautiful now so I have fresh air blowing through the house all day now. Maybe it was trapped humidity from running the a/c around the clock with my 280g evaporating into the living area.

Consider me confused. :fun4:
 
Hi Marc,
IME, humidity causes blushing but not a *horrible* looking joint, Blushing being whiteness in and/or around the joint, we have a fairly humid climate here in OR as well - just not as warm :)
Have I ever had a bad can of WO 4, hmm, I won't use it :) Their tolerances are far greater than any other solvent I know of, maybe it's to "protect" their secret solvent, but maybe it's so that when a "bad batch" goes out - it's still within spec. You can check their MSDS for more on this.
FWIW, their soltion was recently reformulated but they don't wannna talk about it. Check an old can vs a new can and you'll see what I'm referring to. I've heard nothing good about their new formulations in #3 & 4 from professiona; model makers.

HTH,
James
 
James,
Is there any further prep (other than the alcohol wipe) before using WO 40?

We used to have a can of "acrylic primer" by Sika that was used on our tunnel tube (Mitsubishi-Rayon, IIRC) ends before they were bonded with Polyurethane (expansion joints). That stuff was one of the most wicked solvents I have ever smelled. (The worst was Hecht rubber paint from Aquatic Eco, but the stuff worked great:D )

Thanks James!
Chris
 
I definitely had the blushing thing happen during the past few weeks. The last 48 hours worth of joints were picture perfect. I think the fresh air and the new can are both to blame. :D
 
A/C and humidity

A/C and humidity

Marc, Just an FYI. A/C removes moisture from the air unless you have a humidifier. So running the A/C would be drier than without.

I have really enjoyed your website and this thread. Thanks all!! Hopefully I'll be starting a sump this weekend, and then a tank if all goes well.

While I am posting, would 3/8" cast acrylic be adequate for a 21" x 21" x 21" cube? How about ¼” cast acrylic for a 20x20x16 high sump? I have WO #4. Will that be the best choice? And one last question, I have seen lots of recommendations for wire thicknesses here. Is the consensus for the pins .007 or thicker?

Thanks,

Dave
 
Hi Dave,

3/8" Cast would be good for a 21 x 21 x 21 cube, assuming you do at a top flange.

1/4" for a 20 x 20 x 16 will still show some bowing.

#4 is perfectly fine.

I use super tiny accupuncture needles, but I think you've got it correct with .007 thick stainless steel wire.
 
Thanks Marc!

I think I'll go ahead and order the accupuncture needles. I'll get the .007 and the size up from that (38 & 36 gauge) in 1" long. I may in the future build a larger tank that would require 1" acrylic (or maybe even larger). I assume that the 1/2" would be too short for that with the overhangs that are left to route off. Does that sound about right or do I want to go shorter or different sizes on the needles?

On the sump, do you think there will be significant bowing even with crossbracing? I may need to re think the sump if that is the case. What about adding a top ring? I was thinking something similar to Melev's model "M". I could add a cross brace through the refugium area if that would help. I already have the 1/4" so if I can make that work it would be better. If not, i'll go to 3/8".

Thanks again,

Dave
 
Dave, the ones I use are 35 gauge I believe. 38 and 36 should be fine. These are probably about 1.5" long, which works well for my projects.

Cross bracing is fine, if you don't mind them being in your way. I prefer the top flange (the ring you mentioned) with a 2" width all the way around the sump.
 
I have a ever so slight bow in the longer side panels. Maybe it will show up in a picture. I really do not want to put a cross brace on , but should I ? I am now realizing how much water this tank will hold. I originally thought since it was only 14 inches high I would not need to worry about the bowing while using 2 inch strips for bracing. now im rather concerned as I still have 4 inches or so to go filling it up.
 
Do you plan to run this at 14" high all the time? Give us a measurement of how much deflection you are seeing.
 
Yes it will be full so the water will flow thru the teeth. if I were to put a straight edge over the edge I would probably see at least 1/8 of bow out. Really not crazy bowing but definately noticable if you look at it that way.
 
As you can see there is still some more water to add. Should I add a 3-4 inch strip along the 4ft sides. I could bolt them on with plastic screws
 
I would add the water and measure the deflection. That is the best way to decide what is needed.
 
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