DIY- "Pins" method of gluing acrylic.

It probably has already been pointed out but, I have found that the thinnest guitar string works great as a pin. (think I have to credit that one to melev) I have also seen pictures of someone using acupuncture needles. Nice thing about the acupuncture needles is they have a nice handle and don't get lost as easy. Now to find a therapist's cabinet to raid. ;)
 
A friend suggested buying a wire brush and using the bristles instead of the pins. Havent tried in yet myself though.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9120911#post9120911 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RichT
It probably has already been pointed out but, I have found that the thinnest guitar string works great as a pin. (think I have to credit that one to melev) I have also seen pictures of someone using acupuncture needles. Nice thing about the acupuncture needles is they have a nice handle and don't get lost as easy. Now to find a therapist's cabinet to raid. ;)
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I used guitar strings as well. I can't remember which chord but it was the smallest one. I'm pretty sure melev was the guru who suggested those, and many other things of course. I made a modified model F (36x18x16). I couldn't have done it without this thread though; many thanks to all who have contributed.
 
Thanks for the help and advice Goldstripe and Melev

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9117022#post9117022 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by GoldStripe
I would suggest a couple of stores if you cannot find it local. However, the shipping on acrylic can get expensive unless you order it pre-cut. Even then it can get pricey. QUOTE]


I expect shipping prices will be higher than I WANT to spend. :( But since I'm so far away from any source of ANY supplies and equipment. I feel I need to get some stuff on hand so I can build what I need. Building my self will also deal with the fact that most of the space I can find to use for my 'addiction' :D is small and/or odd shaped, so most stuff will have to be custom made anyway. I'm hoping that shipping will be rediculous on small amounts, but if you order a medium to large quantity the shipping will average out to be almost reasonable. I am expecting the sump and overflow to be the first of many more projects, so ordering more than I need for this is not a problem. Except I'll have to wait till I can save up the $. But first thing is first. I have to get an idea of how much green I'm looking at for this project, and for a project for my wifes sewing room. It's always best if everyone benifits after all. :D
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If you have a table saw and a router, let me know what size sump you want to build and I can help figure out the minimum amount of cuts you'll need on a 4'x8' sheet of acrylic. That will reduce shipping as it will be smaller. Ideally, place your order than just drive. I'm sure the travel time will be long, but shipping will be more expensive by comparison.

When I buy acrylic, I have it cut into three pieces so I can work with it more easily.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9125443#post9125443 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
If you have a table saw and a router, let me know what size sump you want to build and I can help figure out the minimum amount of cuts you'll need on a 4'x8' sheet of acrylic. That will reduce shipping as it will be smaller. Ideally, place your order than just drive. I'm sure the travel time will be long, but shipping will be more expensive by comparison.

When I buy acrylic, I have it cut into three pieces so I can work with it more easily.
Click to expand...


Melev

Thanks for the offer! I might take you up on that at some later date. Last night I was looking at the space that WAS planning on using for the sump/fuge. I currently have my HQI balast etc. etc. under the tank. While I was making my plans.....my toddler started playing peek a boo :strooper: with me from INSIDE the CHILDPROOFED cabinet next to the tank!! I was plannig to put all the stuff that is currently under the tank in that cabinet. So now I have to rethink all plans and designs for the system and it's survival/cohabitation with a 2 year old.
 
when routing acrylic if it is melting instead of cutting what is wrong. Also what are the best router bits to use for differnt thicknesses of acrylic. Are you able to put a beval on the edge or can you only use flush bits. One last thing when you are use WO #4 or any type and you are useing the pins method do you need to clamp the pieces to get a good seal or just let sit? Thanks!
 
Thanks for the info. I was trying to use my dremal with the router attachment with a new bit. Only thing I could think of was the bit is so small it Would heat up very fast. I am not sure if I am useing cast or not. It is stuff I got from lowe's.
 
jpndave,

IMO, you should put a crossbrace on the 48" tank and maybe 2 of 'em on the 72" tank. Other than that, yep 1/2" will be fine with the perimeter flange (aka eurobrace).

lennyd19,
Stuff at Lowes is most likely extruded, never heard of them selling cast but things change :)
The problem with Dremels is that they spin real fast and do not clear chips very well so it gets pretty hot, being extruded material doesn't help a whole lot.

Only clamps we use are to hold the material in place so they don't wander off. Gravity does most of the work holding the pieces down. If you clamp too hard, it's easy to squeeze too much ooze out leaving you with a dry (read weak) joint.

HTH,
James
 
Lenny, I use DeWalt. Porter Cable is another good brand for a router. When you buy one, make sure it can use 1/4 to 1/2" shank'd bits. The larger the bit, the less heat buildup.

Cast acrylic is your best choice. You'll have the check the Yellow Pages for "plastics" to find a supplier in your area. There's a guy in New Jersey that does acrylic work and may be able to help you locate a supplier. He runs the website reefgadgets.com
 
Marc thank you! It was your website that gave me the motivation to try this. Your site is very help full. Thanks alot!!!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9252321#post9252321 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Acrylics
jpndave,

IMO, you should put a crossbrace on the 48" tank and maybe 2 of 'em on the 72" tank. Other than that, yep 1/2" will be fine with the perimeter flange (aka eurobrace).

So, 1/2" will be fine, do a euro perimeter brace around the whole top of the tank. Do one center brace on the 48" tank and 2 on the 72" tank effectively dividing each into 24"x24" sections. Is that right? How wide should the perimeter and the braces be?

Thanks for the help!
Click to expand...
 
As a standard, I use 18 x 18" openings on such tanks. So a 3" flange and 6" crossbrace(s). I have found 18 x 18" to be good sized opening for access and just about any lighting setup.

HTH,
James
 
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