DIY Power Backup Ideas - on the cheap

IowaReefer

New member
Hi all -

There have been a few posts lately about power going out due to summer grid AC overloads. While it would be ideal to have a generator, batter back-up circulation pumps, etc., what have people been using for more affordable backup plans?
 
A regular computer UPS works just fine..
Most just slap a single powerhead on it..
Don't expect it to run your whole tank for long.. but a single powerhead is usually plenty to keep the water in the DT moving while the power is temporarily out.
 
My last tank I made a battery bank from marine deep cycle batteries and ran a decent sized power inverter. I have multiple boats that I change the batteries out on regularly. I cycle them through my home battery bank before recycling them.

It's not an auto transfer like I would love to do but it would run my old 75 gallon with everything but lights for 3 days with four group 29 batteries.

This was cheap for me due to the fact I already owned the batteries.
 
A ups has very little energy stored I it. It is meant to give a few minutes for a computer user to save work and shut down. A car battery is the best way to go. I keep mine on trickle charger so it is always ready to go. Its hooked up on emergency backup to run a small pump in my sump that pumps water into the DT automatically. I guess really cheap would be a hand operated crank pump to circulate water manually. Or fill a pitcher from the sump and dump into DT over and over. But instead of turning in your used car battery for the $10 core refund keep it and use it as a back up. I bought a DC pump with an built in float made for boats. I put it above the sumps normal operating level. It works great
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-Automat...at_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item3ce31b1fc4
 
Something to keep in mind but probably not a big deal is that when a car battery is charged it will produce hydrogen gas.
 
Any recommendations for how to use a heater on battery? I have Tunze pumps so i have the circulation and aeration going for me, but am concerned about heating and cooling issues.
 
Something to keep in mind but probably not a big deal is that when a car battery is charged it will produce hydrogen gas.

Yeah, probably not.... ;)

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Most folks that actually deal with providing DC power, and DC to AC conversion, will tell ya that car batteries, including deep cycle marine batteries, are not the batteries to be using for this application, and in most cases are simply dangerous.

Any recommendations for how to use a heater on battery? I have Tunze pumps so i have the circulation and aeration going for me, but am concerned about heating and cooling issues.

Not at all complicated, except for safety concerns. You simply need an inverter, and enough poop from the battery, to run any significant amount of time. The load on the DC side (assuming a 12VDC system) will be 10x the load on the AC side, plus the losses in the inverter. So for 1 amp output, (120watts) you need a 10 amp input, (120watts) plus ~ 20% (assuming an invertor power factor of .8.) The cabling and circuit protection on the DC side need to reflect the higher current load. Float chargers must be used to maintain battery charge, rather than trickle chargers, if hooked up continuously.
 
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You mean for equal performance? Nothing.

On the other hand, if you can get away from the 'inside' part, you can use 6-volt golf cart batteries (flooded cell or AGM) in series for the voltage of choice (12, 24, 36, 42, 48 yada yada; higher the voltage, the lower the amperage,) and in parallel for the run capacity you need, multiplied by 2. Or 12 volt batteries if you don't want to buy as many. Many solar power stations are running banks of 6-volt LA batteries. They are not however, in the living room next to an aquarium, or anywhere else in the house usually. In a very well ventilated garage, perhaps.

These batteries are not exactly inexpensive, and in many cases 'car batteries' don't live up to the 'marketing hype,' associated with them.

It is not horribly complicated, with care, a respect for the safety 'rules' in terms of locaton, wire gauge, circuit protection, good wiring practices, charging, (all on the DC side, the AC side is just like the house wiring) and there is no reason it will not be 'safe.' If not converting to AC, the only difference is you don't need an inverter.

I usually recommend that folks just spring for an auto-start propane, or natural gas, powered generator, so they can run the fridge, and other things as well as the tank.
 
You mean for equal performance? Nothing.

On the other hand, if you can get away from the 'inside' part, you can use 6-volt golf cart batteries (flooded cell or AGM) in series for the voltage of choice (12, 24, 36, 42, 48 yada yada; higher the voltage, the lower the amperage,) and in parallel for the run capacity you need, multiplied by 2. Or 12 volt batteries if you don't want to buy as many. Many solar power stations are running banks of 6-volt LA batteries. They are not however, in the living room next to an aquarium, or anywhere else in the house usually. In a very well ventilated garage, perhaps.

These batteries are not exactly inexpensive, and in many cases 'car batteries' don't live up to the 'marketing hype,' associated with them.

It is not horribly complicated, with care, a respect for the safety 'rules' in terms of locaton, wire gauge, circuit protection, good wiring practices, charging, (all on the DC side, the AC side is just like the house wiring) and there is no reason it will not be 'safe.' If not converting to AC, the only difference is you don't need an inverter.

I usually recommend that folks just spring for an auto-start propane, or natural gas, powered generator, so they can run the fridge, and other things as well as the tank.

What if I went with charging the SLA battery outside and just letting it be inside ready to go if needed, and recharge every two weeks outside? Is it safe when discharging?
 
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