DIY screen top questions

[fernalfer]

So i'm building some screen tops for my 120 gallon tank. I bought the clear mesh from BRS and going to home depot for the rest of the supplies. Here are my questions:

1. I have Durso standpipes that are taller then the framing the tops will sit on. How do i go about making that work?

2. I have 2 power heads 1 on each side with a cords coming out which also has me scratching my head.

3. I have a Reefbreeders Photon V2 that i'm using the legs on that rest on the sides touching the frame. Hanging is not an option so also unsure how to make these screentops work

has anyone has to get creative to go around stuff in the tank and if so can i get some insight.

pics below to better show what i mean.

 

[tkeracer619]

Yea, just go around them, use 4 corner pieces and some small pieces of frame to create an indention in the top. I have a couple spots that needed some creativity. Use some abs plastic or acrylic afterwards to fill in the holes.

 

[xanthurum]

Or you can bend the frame up and over the pipes. I did this on my tank.

 

[SaguaroSteve]

On fellow reefer's build thread I remembered seeing this and went and found it. He has an amazing build and I thought this might help you out. Good luck!

A few weeks ago I made my first screen top. I ordered the kit from BRS and royally jacked it up.

I tried to make notches in the screen to go around my light and an area for my Apex auto feeder. Where it technically worked, it was not square, the screen was loose and I frankly just could not live with it.

I have looked into the artfully acrylic screen tops. LOVE the way the look. I think I might ask for one for christmas from my wife and kid this year.

For now, I went to the hardware store, and bought some more frame. Luckly BRS sent me enough clear mesh to make a top for a 1000 gallon tank.

First/old screen (it looks much better in the picture than in person):

New screen:
I just made a square frame screen, no more bump outs or notches. I picked up some acrylic and took it to the bandsaw and cut it up so that I could get everything covered for jumpers. With this I used 100lb clear 3m tape (I think it should hold ha) and then some clear velcro to create a food door to remove when I need to use the AFS when I travel.

Full top:

Notched area for the AFS. The center section in front of the AFS is the door that I used velcro to hold in place, this way I can remove it easily.

remainder of the back. The senter section is over my overflow. I havnt decided if I want to cover this yet or not as I like to be able to have the area to get into to pull water samples from easily.

 

[Scott07]

I've built several of these, and I agree... sometimes you just have to get creative. I understand the powerhead cords, but I'm not sure I understand needing to go around the durso drain pipe. Isn't it adjustable, or can't you cut it shorter? I just set up my first tank with this type of overflow and would like to understand if there's an advantage to keeping it longer.

 

[Spudsly]

To get around cords I just cut mine just a hair short of the length and squeeze them out the edges.

 

[Spudsly]

Also can you make the durso's shorter? I replaced my caps with reducing plugs which reduced them down under the rim.

 

[CStrickland]

Dursos aside, you don't need to make a big frame that fits everything in the margins. You can def make room for a powerhead by snipping a little bit of the screen and running a cord though it. Remember, the screen is there to keep fish in. So feel free to cut the screen big enough to run the plug through it, and then lay that piece back over the gap. It really just has to be strong enough to knock the fish back home.

 

[windlasher]

I just made a big square to fit and then cut holes for plugs etc. Then I took a not glue gun to the screen around the cuts to strengthen the material around the holes.

 

[Greybeard]

I used a 4" wide strip of eggcrate across the back of the tank, around the light and return line. Siliconed a strip of the clear netting to that, so that nothing small could escape. That gave me a straight line for the screen.

Also gives me a drying shelf to use for my algae cleaner magnet

 

[fernalfer]

awesome ideas guys now i know exactly how i'll will make them. will post some pics when done.

 

[lionfish300]

I used a 4" wide strip of eggcrate across the back of the tank, around the light and return line. Siliconed a strip of the clear netting to that, so that nothing small could escape. That gave me a straight line for the screen.

Also gives me a drying shelf to use for my algae cleaner magnet

Thanks good idea with the eggcrate around the back. I did go around the seaswirls with screen frame but it get flemsy

 

[Greybeard]

Thanks

Welcome.

In the near future, I'm going to switch to black eggcrate.

I found that attaching the eggcrate securely, without gluing it in place, was a challenge. Found a guy at a frag swap that was 3D printing stuff for reef tanks. I worked out a clamp design with him, and had him print 4 of them. Price was reasonable... Works great

Contact info, if anyone is interested. He makes a whole line of frag racks, hose clamps, dosing tube holders, etc. Nice stuff.