DIY Stands Template and Calculator

[RocketEngineer]

Chibils,
The easiest way to do a double stand is to install green screw strips on the outside of the stand the full height of the stand. You then need to place what is affectively two stands on top of one another. the middle frame that holds the lowest stand supports the legs (purple) of the upper frame. Seriously consider cross bracing as with a structure this tall, any imperfections in the legs will be compounded by the height above the floor.


wfgworks,

Sorry for not replying to your PM but work has been a zoo. We have two totally different payloads launching three days apart and lucky me, I'm on both of them. The bottom frame can still be 2X4s. I would bevel the corners to match the shape of the tank for both the top and bottom frame. The legs will be just fine as 2X4s. Depending on the dimensions, I would consider putting the legs at the ends of the longest sides of the tank. If you go back to page 16, near the bottom is rocketlily's pentagon stand.

To those whom I have not answered questions, please post them again and I will make every effort to reply over the weekend.

 

[wfgworks]

RocketEngineer

I figured you were busy but appreciate you replying.

To keep things uniform, is it ok to just do everything 2x6s or would you recommend going to 2x4s for everything except the top frame?

Also, what type of wood screws and at what length is recommended?

 

[RocketEngineer]

What are the dimensions of the tank? Depending on the lengths, the whole thing may be able to be made from 2X4s.

 

[Kentanner11]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12741022#post12741022 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by wfgworks


What type of screws do you recommend for building these stands and at what length?

Thanks!

+2

 

[Siffy]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12741022#post12741022 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by wfgworks
What type of screws do you recommend for building these stands and at what length?[/QUOTE

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12742297#post12742297 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Kentanner11
+2

This question likely got ignored or overlooked because it's been covered just a few pages back and at the beginning. Exterior screws that are rust resistant are worth the extra couple bucks if you're buying a large box, and definitely worth the extra dollar if you're only buying a small box. They typically have a gray or light brown coating, but the box will simply say "exterior". 2 1/2" should be a good size for all 2x material, but if you already have anything from 1 3/4" to 2 3/4" they will work as well. Since the design doesn't transfer any loads to the screws all they have to do is hold the stand together, so you can get away with minimal penetration into the 2nd piece. You just want to avoid having to cut off any protruding though the back side. Head type is up to you, whatever you can work with easiest. That's often Phillips.

Also, a 3/32" or 1/8" pilot hole will help considerably and is highly recommended. As will a cordless drill for both making the pilots and inserting the screws. Having 2 on hand or at least a quick change chuck wouldn't hurt. If you don't have one already, I'd recommend going with an 18 or 19.2 volt model. The extra power and runtime are worth the extra weight and cost. I like my Craftsman 19.2v and would recommend it over some of the high end brands that I usually suggest like DeWalt because extra batteries are so much cheaper. The Craftsman drill ($50) and 1 battery ($30) will cost you less than 1 DeWalt battery ($90).

And they often put the drill/flashlight with 2 batteries and a case combo on sale for $99, which is what we have but an older model. I've been very happy with it.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...Tools&cName=Portable+Power+Tools&sName=Drills

 

[wfgworks]

What are the dimensions of the tank? Depending on the lengths, the whole thing may be able to be made from 2X4s.

The sides that will sit against the wall are 42"
The Main view panel is 42"
The small viewing panels on either side of the main viewing panel are 12" each
The height of the tank is 30"

This is around 150gallons

 

[wfgworks]

Siffy

Thank you for the all the information and suggestions. Its much appreciated.

 

[Chibils]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12742128#post12742128 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RocketEngineer
Chibils,
The easiest way to do a double stand is to install green screw strips on the outside of the stand the full height of the stand. You then need to place what is affectively two stands on top of one another. the middle frame that holds the lowest stand supports the legs (purple) of the upper frame. Seriously consider cross bracing as with a structure this tall, any imperfections in the legs will be compounded by the height above the floor.

Thank you - how could I most effectively cross-brace it?

 

[urville]

I used deckmate deck screws, because thier guaranteed for outdoor wet use. Also I like the non striping philips cam they give you with each box, which is the third point that they are relatively cheap.

Buy size corresponding countersink bit, took some getting used to lol. And then a same size regualr bit to pilot the holes, otherwise youll split everything. For my "unneeded" mid poles I used steel L brackets.

Canopy in progress photos soon.

FOR NOW:
more pics....

stained angles

to support 125 gallons from below

 

[RocketEngineer]

wfgworks,
Working the numbers, the tank is actually closer to 170g. Nice dimensions. So 1700 pounds on three main rails = 567 pounds per rail. At 42" long, the long rails are borderline. I would stick with the 2X6 top frame and put legs at the end of each long rail.

Chibils,
Simple plywood triangles would work but a better solution would be a plywood back if you could get away with it.

 

[urville]

I think my question was that 2x stock is relentlessly warpy and off. Is this normal? I mean just given 2x stick you cant really get every piece to match up along the tops. I built it so its "top" was facing the floor and thusly level, but then the bottom was way off and didnt sit on my 2x4 vertical legs level... Even doing everything individually cut lengths to maintain levelness it was off by 1/16.

I'm going to use foam under the tank to take care of that unlevelness. I suppose if I had had a planer large enough to handle the finished 2x6 top but then I can tell you again.... 2x stock isnt even the same measurements along itself so both top and bottom of each top and bottom frame would have needed planing?

It just worries me, whats the final word.

So i had to recut each of those to different lengths to maintain level.

 

[Siffy]

a 1/16" of an inch isn't enough to worry about. You have to cherry pick lumber unfortunately these days. More than half of it is simply garbage and it's sad mills can get away with even selling the stuff, but the demand is so high that they have to process the stuff faster than is preferable and this is the end result. The bottom line is that if the boards were that warped or crowned that you had to go to all that extra work, then you shouldn't have used them to begin with. But only in that their defects caused you complications. It's knowledge that will make the next one easier. Also, you will often have better luck finding good boards at a local lumber yard than Home Depot or Lowes.

I wouldn't worry about planing the top frame. I'd throw a piece of 1/2" or 3/4" plywood on top of it and a piece of 1/2" foam insulation on top of that and be good to go. The foam will settle some and both will help relieve inconsistencies.

 

[urville]

ok... i bought one inch foam but i have the recipt.

well actually... i mean... i used the best wood i could find literally a whole days worth of lumber yards and home centers to find even this stuff, lol so...

 

[Siffy]

If the 1" foam works with your stand/trim, it will be fine. I know exactly how you feel about the lumber search, and it's unfortunate and simply "just how it is."

 

[urville]

I have not before used foam, so is there a rugh idea of whats more appropriate? Is it based on distance from trim to glass on the bottom? Mines a typical all glass 125 with overflows

 

[tsouth]

The foam isn't recommended for aquariums w/ the bottom plastic brace, just acrylic and non, braced tanks.

 

[urville]

Really. I've been told exactly that opposite by alot of people... wetwebmedia, here, all kinds of people...

i better call all glass, though its a bit late now...

 

[tsouth]

......that doesn't sound right. If your tank has the black plastic trim piece on the bottom then do not use foam as it will actually do more harm than good. The point of the black trim piece is to level out the aquarium due to inconsistencies that may be present in the wood so that the bends do not make contact with the glass itself and put stress on it.

 

[foofooree]

got bored today, so I designed a modified version of your stand (basically just added extra posts on back to hold up top) stand is for 1/2 ten gallon (6H X 20L X 10W) or 10 gallon, shown with 1/2 ten gallon, top hinges back and houses lights
frame:

view from bottom:

with tank:

 

[foofooree]

humm, why dont my images work?.....
EDIT- Yay, fixed 'em