DIY Stands Template and Calculator

[urville]

Wouldnt it be similar to using a plywood top essentially?

I can see how it may not help but not how it hurts...

Heres how it was explained essentially. The trim is actually a brace and supports the cross braces both above and below the tank as a whole to keep the tank rigid against the pressure of the water agaisnt the sides especially over such a long horizontal distance. This is true even on tanks with no center braces. it still acts as a brace hence why your never supposed to use a tank with even a cracked trim.

Which even that may not be true from what i've been reading in the last day or so...

I mean i can see what your saying for sure, but I dont see the trims ability to take deflection over the horizontal of any siginificant amount being rigid and only glued on with enough silicone to fit between the plastic and glass.

Never the less. I will call Aqueon tomorrow and get an official word.

links:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/aqstandfaqs.htm
http://www.petcity.com.au/fish/care_sheets/The_Optimum_Marine_Reef_Aquarium.pdf

From a magazine:
With any type of stand, the space between the bottom of the tank and the to of the stand should be covered with closed-cell styrofoam or other weight-adjusting material. This layer will compensate for any minor variations in levelness in the floor or stand. Sometimes the weight of the tank will cause a level floor to settle, unbalancing the tank and causing leaks or cracks. Acrylic aquariums are more flexible in this regard, but the foam does protect the bottom from scratches, and adds some insulation value.
Aquarium Fish Magazine

From WWM:
The frame won't hold it, will it?
-No... the plastic frames are really only decorative, not structural... use is principally to hold the panels in place for the "first" seal... so the maker can apply the second...-

 

[stevedola]

rocket, nice thread, thanks for the details for the basic frame construction for my stand. I have a few questions...
background:
I am building a stand for a 75 gallon tank. Ive made the frame slightly larger than the exact std size of a 75g tank going with a frame thats 57lx27wx40h. this is to accomodate the existing refuge,sump,skimmer, reactor, equipment all located under the stand. I actually liked the idea of a 4" lip around the 75g tank for aesthic purposes.
My questions:
1-I cut 1' corner braces for the top box frame with a 45 deg to make sure the frame didnt twist. I didnt think the screw boards were now needed since I did this added support with a middle cross brace. are they necessary for my situation?

2-since my frame is bigger all the way around the tanks edges, do I need to put a full table top to the frame or can I simply trim out the top with a piece of 1x8 oak?

ill post a pic of the frame I made to better guide you with my questions-

 

[stevedola]

screwed the legs into the box frames with 3" screws that were predrilled.

 

[stevedola]

anyone?

 

[kgross]

I would still do the screw boards myself, they keep the legs from falling off of the base or the top.

One thing I would be worried about with this stand is that all the weight of the tank will supported by the plywood top, not the frame. The only place the frame will actually be supporting the tank is in the corners,, and those pieces of the frame are not supported at all.

On your top I would suggest going with a pretty heavy top, like 1 to 1 1/4 inch so it can transfer the weight the 4 inches to the frame.

Kim

 

[stevedola]

its going to be a 1" oak top which will sit on top of the entire top frame so it should transfer the force.i think.

 

[SeanT]

Hi,

I was hoping to get some advice on building a stand for my cube that is being delivered tomorrow.
I am in no rush to build it, still waiting on some equipment.

I have never built a stand before, but my father-in-law is a carpenter. A good one too.

He can follow instructions but needs them to build it.

My tank is acrylic with dimensions of 60" L and 48"D, front to back, 24" Tall...(300 gallons).

I would like a 4" lip on the front and a 4" lip on the sides.

Can anyone advise me on what I need, and instructions on how to do this please?

Thanks,
Sean

 

[urville]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12815298#post12815298 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by stevedola
its going to be a 1" oak top which will sit on top of the entire top frame so it should transfer the force.i think.

It does. As long as you've made sure the frame is level and planar across the top.

 

[stevedola]

i thought so...plus i used woodglue in every joint in addition to the screws and nails.

 

[danorth]

I read through all 19 pages. I am planning on using 2x8's for the red and yellow pieces, and 2x6's for the purples. Rest in 2x4's. From the guy that wanted a 96" without center brace, you said it wouldn't work, so I am going to use 2 2x6's in the middle for center braces front and back with 2 more green nail strips. Will that work out?

 

[SHOmuchFUN]

Steve, the frame looks good and I wouldn't worry too much about the screw strips, although they wouldn't hurt and 2x4's are cheap.

The only thing I would suggest would be some cross supports on the top frame that will run the side-edges of the tank. I'm not sure if your corner supports will cross the corner of your tank either. That's one thing that's nice about the original design, is that all of the edges of the aquarium are supported by a vertically reinforced 2x4. Even though your 1x will span the frame, if it were to bow to the weight, the supports underneath are only connected by the screws and glue.

You should be fine, but figured I'd point out what is already fairly obvious.

 

[stevedola]

i actually have another 2 cross braces already cut but Im waiting to install because i need to measure the overflow on the 75...dont want to put a brace where the tank's drain comes down

 

[SHOmuchFUN]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12832354#post12832354 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by stevedola
i actually have another 2 cross braces already cut but Im waiting to install because i need to measure the overflow on the 75...dont want to put a brace where the tank's drain comes down

Perfect. I hear ya on that. I built my stand before I had my tank, luckily I only needed to notch a tad out of one of my vertical braces. Why tank manufacturers put the bulkhead holes so close to the edge of the tank is beyond me.

Look forward to seeing more pics as they progress Steve. Will you be posting them on the BRS?

 

[stevedola]

sure, once I have it done Ill ppost my picture diary. I think it will look real nice. I plan on priming the frame either tonight or sat. morning and then possibly skin the stand on sunday. we will see how much gets done...knowing my schedule, not much

 

[danorth]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12830657#post12830657 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by danorth
I read through all 19 pages. I am planning on using 2x8's for the red and yellow pieces, and 2x6's for the purples. Rest in 2x4's. From the guy that wanted a 96" without center brace, you said it wouldn't work, so I am going to use 2 2x6's in the middle for center braces front and back with 2 more green nail strips. Will that work out?

self bump so it doesn't get buried.

 

[jerryz]

danorth - What size is your tank? the question doesn't make sense without context

 

[danorth]

Hi I tried posting twice and they the server had issues apparently.

Here is the post I am talking about from Rocket......

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12423277#post12423277 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RocketEngineer
mmagombo,

Sorry for the long reply, I have been busy trying to put my bedroom and office back together after renovating two closets.

For a 96" span, unsupported case: assuming 10#/gal that means the tank will weigh 3000#s, with each rail supporting half that =1500#s per rail. In that case you would need a doubled 2X10 rail to keep the deflection less then 1/8th of an inch in the middle. Not good since you want as much head room as possible.

For a 48" span which would mean center supports we get 750#s per rail (3000/4) and again aiming for a deflection under .125" using standard lumber sizes would require a 2X6 rail. This would give you a deflection between the end and the center post of ~.05 inches.

Rather then fight with a steel plate, simply using a 2X6 top rail with a center post should meet your needs.

What I am doing is a 240 glass 8 foot tank. I am placing 2x8s for the yellow and red beams, and making the purple ones into 2x6s and adding another set of 2x6s and 2x4s to the middle for center support. I am asking if that is enough....

 

[danorth]

Well, here we go: Still need the floor supports for the sump and skin/pretty stuff. 38" tall 96.75" long.

 

[RocketEngineer]

danorth,

Been a little busy at work, had a 14 hour day Wednesday trying to get the SECOND rocket onto the rail. Two launches in two days is a little rough but they both worked. Back to your question, yes that should work just fine. More then strong enough in fact. Once you get all the "pretty stuff" in place post some more pics.

 

[pdelcast]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12838235#post12838235 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RocketEngineer
danorth,

Been a little busy at work, had a 14 hour day Wednesday trying to get the SECOND rocket onto the rail. Two launches in two days is a little rough but they both worked. Back to your question, yes that should work just fine. More then strong enough in fact. Once you get all the "pretty stuff" in place post some more pics.

Terrific. I was waiting for you to reply, I'm starting my own stand this weekend for a 300G tall tank (96x24x30) being delivered next week.

Thanx!