SHOmuchFUN
New member
Thanks.
Wood is Maple and you are correct, it's a mahogany red stain finished with spar semi-gloss.
DIY Stands Template and Calculator
- Thread starter RocketEngineer
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Wood is Maple and you are correct, it's a mahogany red stain finished with spar semi-gloss.
reefnewbster
In Memoriam
i forgot too add the .5" length to my frames for the plastic trim on my tank, so now i have to redo my frames, not that bad, but it still sux
SHOmuchFUN
New member
Rookie mistake
gordie72
New member
The subject has been broached, but I haven't really heard a definitive answer. Would pocket hole joinery be as good as the screw/nail strips? It seems to me it would, since in either scheme the screws aren't bearing any load. Any thoughts/comments? Also, I like the idea Duane had of using 1x lumber instead of 2x. I'm building a stand for a 75, standard dimensions. What do you engineer types think of using 1x8 Maple for the front panels, 1x4 pine abutted to the maple for the sides, with 1/4" maple skin for the sides, and 1x4 or 1x6 pine for the back. Back open with corner braces? I will either use 1x4 Maple or Pine for the cross beam in the front. Can it be built, safely? did any of that make any sense to anyone?
randomworker
New member
Should work. I thought I read somewhere along the way, that the original design was supposed to be easy to build with regular tools. That would imply straight cuts, no countersinking the screws, etc. Pocket holes require specialized tools that everybody might not have. But if you have it then it sounds fine to use it.
RokleM
Premium Member
You're missing the point stevedola. The thread was started as a very very very simple DIY project basis for people with little to no tools. Countersinking, pocket hole joinery, etc were avoided as it's beyond absolutely basic DIY.
If you have the tools and ability to use the more advanced techniques, go for it
If you have the tools and ability to use the more advanced techniques, go for it
randomworker
New member
Was just thinking it's inside the stand, nobody will ever see it, it's easier to do with out it.
randomworker
New member
Ok as I read it again, perhaps I should have explained it some some more. I'm saying you can save some time by not using that special countersink drill bit before driving the screw in. 1. Drill a pilot hole, 2. Drive in the screw, while countersinking it how ever much it will be. Pine is soft so you'll get it flush. But I didn't fill in the holes, sand, etc. etc. etc.
Hope this makes some more sense...
Hope this makes some more sense...
stevedola
Master of my domain
I thought you were saying countersinking was a bad thing strengthwise...I get ya now. If done correctly I didnt think there would be any reprecautions.
I know this is a basic stand thread but I bet many would like to know a little more than just novice techniques. It takes only time to drill a pilot hole and sink the screws. When I first started, it was difficult to find info on how to skin a stand or make cabinet doors or even the basics of staining with poly.
I know this is a basic stand thread but I bet many would like to know a little more than just novice techniques. It takes only time to drill a pilot hole and sink the screws. When I first started, it was difficult to find info on how to skin a stand or make cabinet doors or even the basics of staining with poly.
urville
New member
Well I'm no expert, but I watch alot of wood working shows and DIY network, and I read alot about wood work.
I reccomend using poly and stain in the same mix. Minwax makes a stain & poly, it's mych easier and still looks great. Make sure you buy a brush for stain, people say it doesnt matter but it does. I saw a great tip back a page or so maybe about smoothing the stain!
I finished mine and it came out good, but i dont think i'd be so hot on explaining it. Someone else could maybe chime in?
I reccomend using poly and stain in the same mix. Minwax makes a stain & poly, it's mych easier and still looks great. Make sure you buy a brush for stain, people say it doesnt matter but it does. I saw a great tip back a page or so maybe about smoothing the stain!
I finished mine and it came out good, but i dont think i'd be so hot on explaining it. Someone else could maybe chime in?
stevedola
Master of my domain
the mix works well but the seperate stain/poly looks better in my experience. I rag my stain on making sure to use long even strokes looking for over laping which would make areas appear darker. Always use a brush for poly and after dry you should sand with a very fine paper/block (prolly 220grit). this will even out the poly. Then re apply poly. I usually do 3 coats of poly. IM not a pro by any means but this is how ive had good result.
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