DIY Sulfur Denitrator

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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11886294#post11886294 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by asmodeus
thanks Frank you are a great reefer and a excellent DIY'er to deal with

thanks for your time.


mike

I'm not planning to leave you behind man!

djfrankie
 
oh ya Frankie I don't have any sponge over the top of the media, that shouldn't be aproblem should it.:confused:
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11886345#post11886345 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by asmodeus
oh ya Frankie I don't have any sponge over the top of the media, that shouldn't be aproblem should it.:confused:

None, unless you see the possibility of the media getting caught in the pump's intake.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11886400#post11886400 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by asmodeus
No the media is not even close to it, and there is a 1/2 chamber full of media

I see you're an optimist (half full instead of empty) :D

You should be fine.

djfrankie
 
ya really i get that from my wife, im down stairs starring at the reactor I'm wannting to test it like every hour. It's killing me here I want it down.........................
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11886426#post11886426 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by asmodeus
I'm wannting to test it like every hour. It's killing me here I want it down.........................

Patience is a virtue in this hobby. Only really bad things happen overnight.

Well here it is,

I just spoke to Jeff at Caribsea (888) 461-1113 Ext 4.

I explained the situation to Jeff and he said that the media does come preseeded from factory. In your case, since the autotrophic bacteria is always present in aquarium water it will basically seed itself and you may start seeing the unit begin to cycle in about a week or so.


So that's good news!

HTH,
djfrankie
 
i just built one of these and im going to use a aqualifter pump and was wondering how much flow to run into the reactor? and how do i know how much flow is actually entering the reactor? sorry for the dumb questions but im trying not screw things up
i have a 180gal tank with 50 gal sump
 
all you need to do is hook the aqua lifer up and let it run int othe reactor once you have ot filled you can adjust from the output drip. there will be a bit of pressure on the reactor not much. that is what you need.
 
so im suppose to run it full blast until im getting 60 drips a min from the output for the next 3 days so it can cycle. then wait for zero NO3. how do i know when i need to increase the flow and drops comming out the output?
 
Run the reactor, full out for 4 hours to clear all the crap out and then run it for 3 days at 1 drip per second and then start to measure the nitrates from the out put with the test kits. you should get 0 Nitrates after that, remember if you start to smell sulphur do this:

- If the flow rate is too low, you will get a rotten egg smell at the column's exit due to a production of sulfurous hydrogen (H2S). This will rarely happen for really low flow rates.
- If the flow rate is too high, you will detect nitrites or nitrates in the output water.
- If the flow rate is correct, you should obtain 0 nitrates.
 
Hey no problem Frankie , you are the one that we shouldbe thanking since what ever I have stated os coming from you any ways. :smokin:
 
Supplies
2 feet 4" pvc (HD)
1 4" flange (base) (HD)
1 4" flange with knockout (top) (HD)
1/2" CPVC (HD)
Scrap white acrylic from Juliovideo
Nylon screw and nuts (Ace)
1/2" CPVC elbow
1/2" CPVC tee
Maxijet 1200 (old)
Gasket material
All purpose PVC, CPVC glue (HD)

Here are the pics:

Start out by glueing flange (base) to PVC tube



What size were the John Guest style fittings?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11889196#post11889196 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by IBASSFSH
Supplies
2 feet 4" pvc (HD)
1 4" flange (base) (HD)
1 4" flange with knockout (top) (HD)
1/2" CPVC (HD)
Scrap white acrylic from Juliovideo
Nylon screw and nuts (Ace)
1/2" CPVC elbow
1/2" CPVC tee
Maxijet 1200 (old)
Gasket material
All purpose PVC, CPVC glue (HD)

Here are the pics:

Start out by glueing flange (base) to PVC tube



What size were the John Guest style fittings?

Check page 4 of this thread and you'll see the updated reactor that uses no acrylic parts, hence it's easier to make for us DIY!

Also, here's an updated parts list:

4" PVC Cap
4" Slip to Thread adapter
2 Feet 4" PVC
3" Strainer (goes inside reactor)
4" Toilet flange
1/2" cpvc elbow
1/2" cpvc tee
(3) 3/8" John Guest fittings
(3) Micro valves
About 4' of 1/4" o.d. vinyl tubing
About 4'' of 1/2" cpvc pipe
Teflon tape
CPVC Tape
PVC Primer
Maxijet 1200

HTH,
djfrankie
 
so in the first reactor i should use 50% sulfur and 50% matrix and in a second reactor us aragonite right??? where can i find the aragonite and matrix at??? and what brand works the best???
 
I am making one like on page four. I had some 1/4" John Guest fittings , but were to small. I ran to Lowe's and picked up the proper size. I also could not find a 4" toilet flange. I had to get a 3" and use a 4" to 3" reducer. It worked out pretty good though. I will post picks later on.
 
Ok, so I finally got the media figured out with the help of Frankie, but I have two other problems. The first problem is easy. I have the denitrator being fed off of the same pump as my carbon and Phosar reactor. Once I turn the MJ on to recirculate the water after the denitrator fills up the water level in the denitrator starts to drop. :( I will have to get a stronger pump if I am going to run all three off of it or get another small one just for the denitrator.
Now problem TWO, not so easy to fix.....my denitrator has a leak at the top where the pipe and the flange are cemented :mad2: :mad2: :mad2: . I'm going to bed before I break out the sawzall :lol:

Not sure if anyone knows of an easy way to fix the leak or not? The leak is on the outside under the flange, so not real easy to apply anything. Any thought would be greatly appreciated.

Paul
 
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