DIY Sump Idea?

H

HarrisonMG

New member
I have a 75 gallon that is currently cycling.
I have a Fluval C4, an internal 20 gallon filter, and an Aquatic Life 115 skimmer
(I don't have the budget for anything better than that)

I want to put it all on a 10 gallon sump--but I'm not sure about a few things, since I'm on a super tight budget.
-Firstly, do I need to have baffles? Cant the water just come down into the sump, pass across with some getting sucked into the skimmer and filters, and then go back up the return?

-Secondly, I want to get the LifeReef Slimline HOB overflow (my tank can't be drilled) but it is so expensive!
How reliable might this DIY overflow be?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UZytENJZtJw&t=72s

My main concern is that no water ever touches my floor or overflows into my stand, but I also want effective filtration.
What's you're opinion on using HOB filtration in a sump?

Thanks a bunch!
 
Looks like you are a new user and posted an external link..
We cannot see your post yet (but can see that you posted something)..
This site has a jail function to lock posts where a new users posts an external link.. A moderator should approve it in 24 hours or less..

Just letting you know since the site doesn't..
 
I am new to the hobby by I DIYd my whole build. I would say you could go with no baffles but having baffles is beneficial. One it helps you to keep a constant water level for your skimmer. Two it allows you to have a bubble trap to keep micro bubbles out of display. You can buy some really inexpensive baffle kits on eBay and silicone them in yourself. I bought a Fiji cube kit for my 40B sump

As far as overflow goes I was strongly considering an eshopps external overflow. After lots of consideration I ultimately decided against it. The thought of failure was just too scary. Ultimately I purchased an eshopps eclipse L overflow and drilled my 75 myself. As scary as drilling can be peace of mind was well worth it. This overflow works beautifully and is extremely safe with my bean animal setup



HarrisonMG said:
I have a 75 gallon that is currently cycling.
I have a Fluval C4, an internal 20 gallon filter, and an Aquatic Life 115 skimmer
(I don't have the budget for anything better than that)

I want to put it all on a 10 gallon sump--but I'm not sure about a few things, since I'm on a super tight budget.
-Firstly, do I need to have baffles? Cant the water just come down into the sump, pass across with some getting sucked into the skimmer and filters, and then go back up the return?

-Secondly, I want to get the LifeReef Slimline HOB overflow (my tank can't be drilled) but it is so expensive!
How reliable might this DIY overflow be?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UZytENJZtJw&t=72s

My main concern is that no water ever touches my floor or overflows into my stand, but I also want effective filtration.
What's you're opinion on using HOB filtration in a sump?

Thanks a bunch!
Click to expand...
 
mcgyvr said:
Looks like you are a new user and posted an external link..
We cannot see your post yet (but can see that you posted something)..
This site has a jail function to lock posts where a new users posts an external link.. A moderator should approve it in 24 hours or less..

Just letting you know since the site doesn't..
Click to expand...

Same applies to you Bayareareefer18.. We can't see your post "yet" in this thread either..
 
HarrisonMG said:
I have a 75 gallon that is currently cycling.
I have a Fluval C4, an internal 20 gallon filter, and an Aquatic Life 115 skimmer
(I don't have the budget for anything better than that)

I want to put it all on a 10 gallon sump--but I'm not sure about a few things, since I'm on a super tight budget.
-Firstly, do I need to have baffles? Cant the water just come down into the sump, pass across with some getting sucked into the skimmer and filters, and then go back up the return?

-Secondly, I want to get the LifeReef Slimline HOB overflow (my tank can't be drilled) but it is so expensive!
How reliable might this DIY overflow be?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UZytENJZtJw&t=72s

My main concern is that no water ever touches my floor or overflows into my stand, but I also want effective filtration.
What's you're opinion on using HOB filtration in a sump?

Thanks a bunch!
Click to expand...

First.. No you do not need baffles but they can help and do serve a purpose..
A 10g sump though is just so small and will serve little benefit..

Second... That type of overflow can be very unreliable and cause big time problems.. I'd avoid it like the plague and personally would recommend anyone avoiding any HOB overflow.. They can certainly work and do for many but can also cause problems to others.. I've ran one.. It worked for me.. But I worried about it all the time and wouldn't run one ever again..

I would have to ask why you want a sump.. you can certainly have a successful tank without a sump.. A sump is 100% optional.. It really just gives you a place to stash any extra equipment you intend to run but when you limit yourself to only 10G you can't really fit anything more than a single skimmer or whatever.. Just no room to be of use..
I'd suggest you just run a HOB skimmer instead of going the crappy overflow/small sump route..
 
There is no way in god's green earth that I would use an overflow like that on the link you posted. It's not that it might fail - it will. It's just a question of when.
You say that you never want water on your floor. Either drill the tank or go without a sump.
And a big +1 to a 10g sump isn't worth the effort.

Why can't your tank be drilled? Unless all the panels are tempered, yes it can.
 
In all reality any type of overflow can be used..
Each has their own pros and cons.. noise/clog failsafes,etc...

In your case the risk of a flood on the floor is really marginal (or can be eliminated really) and its a good way to prevent an on the floor flood with any overflow system.. And thats to just make sure your return pump runs dry before the display tank overflows..
You just need to do some simple math to ensure the display needs "X" gallons before it overflows and that the sump return section to about half way down the pumps inlet height is less than that "X"..
 
Sorry I haven't replied! for some reason nothing updated me in my email so I never thought to check back.
Well, I finished it.

The reason I need a sump is basically all because of the dang protein skimmer. I bought an Octopus 150sss, rated for 210 gallons. I just simply couldn't keep adding more and more equipment onto the back of my tank.

I would love to have drilled my tank, but even though I technically could, it is too late--I didn't know so much when I bought the tank, so I set it up and started cycling day of. Didn't even think I'd need skimmer. But, I know Humaguy, another user who has about 2000g of aquarium, and he gave me tons of great advice.

Still, it's too late to drill. If I did drill it, that would mean finding a place for my fish and LR and sand for a couple days, emptying the entire tank of all else, moving it to the basement to work on it, and risk ruining it.

By now, I wish I'd drilled. I really do. But it would be way too difficult. (not to mention, there is a large sticker on the bottom that says DO NOT DRILL)

Therefore, I have my PVC overflow (which I put my own little spin on so that all of the air comes out without a check valve pump) going into my 10g sump that I did put baffles and bubble wall into. I need to get a filter sock still, but I have my Octopus skimmer, a canister filter going in and out of the sump, and a 900gph return pump.

I also got two new clownfish today, and dropped them into my quarantine .

Just here with an update.
 
If the tank is supposed to be good looking(one of the reasons for a sump), who on gods green earth would think that monstrosity is good looking?

I'm all for DIY, but that is large, cumbersome, an eye sore, and takes up way to much space.

FYI youtube is one of the worst things that ever happened to the internet. It makes anyone with a camera a "professional" now.
 
Actually if I had chosen to do DIY King version, it would have been almost invisible.
But,
I did my own weir, like an actual black plastic box, which blocks all the other stuff behind it
And instead of only seeing the siphon over the edge of the tank with that bit of standpipe next to it, I did my own spin at have a massive check valve sticking out the top of the siphon, along with a much extended standpipe. This was so I could ensure it shouldn't break siphon without a dinky air pump.

I then painted it black, so you only see two little black pipes sticking out the top of my aquarium. Better than three HOB filters plus two horrible looking protein skimmers, plus a heater and an auto feeder, and a lid that doesn't even fit correctly!

I am just noticing some salt creep on my pvc joints, so wondering if I should silicone or use rubber cement/pvc glue. (???)
 
Your pvc joints sould have been glued with pvc glue or joint past if threaded. If They were but are still leaking there are some tricks for sealing glued joints on line. I have never had a glued join leak myself. Our plumbing is at such low pressure leaks should never be an issue.
 
UPDATE:
I decided to do a different HOB overflow for two reasons: the first was too loud, and more likely to leak than my new plan, which I am executing this weekend.

I bought an aquarium specimen container (like they use to catch fish at the LFS) and I'm drilling holes in the bottom. Basically, it'll be an external BeanAnimal overflow, but instead of holes in the tank feeding water to it the old-fahsioned way, I'm connecting a siphon between the DT and the spec container. I also got PVC primer and cement, so this time gonna seal it up right.

Well, coincidentally, a couple days ago I awoke at 3AM to rumbling from the sump. I picked and prodded at some pipes and it stopped. At 6AM I checked it out, the connection form my return pump being the culprit, but when I began to finagle it, the seal exploded! Water went everywhere! It wasn't too bad though. Just made me more confident to redo everything, that that would be what s best.

Now, I don't have any filter socks yet cuz I have nothing to hold them up, so I've ben running a can in my sump. But, I think I'm gonna make my own wet/dry section of sump and filter sock holder, so no need for it anymore. eXcept right now, I'm using it to power my media reactor, and its working well.

Am I benefiting from using the can as a pump for the reactor, by having additional mechanical and chemical filtration? Or am I just creating a counteractive nitrate factory, plus something else that also has to be cleaned?

Thanks!
 
HarrisonMG said:
UPDATE:
I decided to do a different HOB overflow for two reasons: the first was too loud, and more likely to leak than my new plan, which I am executing this weekend.

I bought an aquarium specimen container (like they use to catch fish at the LFS) and I'm drilling holes in the bottom. Basically, it'll be an external BeanAnimal overflow, but instead of holes in the tank feeding water to it the old-fahsioned way, I'm connecting a siphon between the DT and the spec container. I also got PVC primer and cement, so this time gonna seal it up right.

Well, coincidentally, a couple days ago I awoke at 3AM to rumbling from the sump. I picked and prodded at some pipes and it stopped. At 6AM I checked it out, the connection form my return pump being the culprit, but when I began to finagle it, the seal exploded! Water went everywhere! It wasn't too bad though. Just made me more confident to redo everything, that that would be what s best.

Now, I don't have any filter socks yet cuz I have nothing to hold them up, so I've ben running a can in my sump. But, I think I'm gonna make my own wet/dry section of sump and filter sock holder, so no need for it anymore. eXcept right now, I'm using it to power my media reactor, and its working well.

Am I benefiting from using the can as a pump for the reactor, by having additional mechanical and chemical filtration? Or am I just creating a counteractive nitrate factory, plus something else that also has to be cleaned?

Thanks!
Click to expand...
This sounds like a flood in the making. Most specimen containers are not thick enough for the load you going to put on it for one. What happens when you loose the siphon. The syphon is the old fashioned way and for good reason, it was unreliable and problematic! Good luck!
 
Well the container will not have to deal with large volumes of water just water flowing through it... Don't know if that's better.
And if the siphon were to break, no more water would go into my sump. The pump would pump a little water into my tank and then run dry. Hopefully that would be all.
 
1. Clear PVC will grow crud in it. Would Reconsider

2. Couldn't you just take the water level down for a couple days with an extra powerhead and then drill? or do you not have access to that side of the tank (wall etc) Tape on the inside glass should catch any bits of glass.

3. For a simple sock hanger, put a plastic knob or screw on your drain pipe a few inches from the bottom and you can just loop that inside hangar on the sock over that. I used to use zip ties, but my drain pipe had a T it could hang on.
 
Well, my alternative to clear is a check valve that switches the air bubble in the siphon with some water, which I've been using and is tall and ugly. Rather the clear PVC, just my preference.

I would have to drill the tank from the inside since I can't get around to the other side, and I don't know to do that without getting glass shards in the tank.

Lastly, thank you for the idea on filter sock--definitely will do that. also happen to use tee joint on my outflow tubes.

Thanks!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

P
DIY Hang on back Sump Tank
Replies
14
Views
591
kharmaguru
kharmaguru
S
Sump at Same Level as DT
Replies
9
Views
549
wvned
wvned
newlifeolsen
Activated carbon in saltwater canister filters?
Replies
3
Views
248
griss
griss
B
Seahorse Macro Setup Question
Replies
4
Views
307
vlangel
vlangel
revclyburn
Need some thoghts on skimmers
Replies
7
Views
420
Timfish
Timfish
Back
Top