DIY Swirler Stein
- Thread starter miwoodar
- Start date
Reefer08
New member
So wouldn't shortening the tie-rod increase the degree of turning more than 90 degree's?
Can someone let me know exactly what I need to purchase online and what can be purchased in store??
From what I understand the motor is purchased online for around 10 bucks.
The tie rod can be purchased from a RC car store, (we have a Hobby People in my neighborhood that im hoping sells these)
All the nuts and the plastic box can be bought at a home depot.
Anything im missing??
Thanks
Can someone let me know exactly what I need to purchase online and what can be purchased in store??
From what I understand the motor is purchased online for around 10 bucks.
The tie rod can be purchased from a RC car store, (we have a Hobby People in my neighborhood that im hoping sells these)
All the nuts and the plastic box can be bought at a home depot.
Anything im missing??
Thanks
dngspot
Premium Member
What changes the degree of rotation are the arms on the motor and the down tube. If you increase the motor to the same arc as the down tube arm you should be able to get 180 degrees but, will also go over center and lock up the motor. This stuff works sort of like sprockets on a bike, the closer you get to the same radius the closer you get to the same amount of movement per stroke. Shorten the motor arm and you move less. As for the down tube arm make it shorter, more movement and longer less movement. The tie rod is like a bike chain if it is too long it will push the down tube arm at it highest point and lock the motor. To short and it will not allow the motor to complete rotation at it lowest point. I set mine up by moving the motor arm to the lowest point away from the down tube arm, then rotate the down tube arm so it is closest to the motor and fit the tie rod to the arms.
I hope this helps.
I hope this helps.
Aqua Keepers
New member
Man, someone needs to start marketing these. I really want one, but just don't have the time.
adamblackburn22
New member
Thanks for the tips! Helps alot. I'll just drill a few holes in each arms and go from there to find the best rotation. Thanks. O yeah how long are your arms? The whole arms. From one end to the other. Looks like maybe a little under a inch for both?
adamblackburn22
New member
Ok I got the motor in today! Just wondering if I'm suppose to put some sheet metal under the motor for heat purpose and maybe to pick the motor up a little to be level with the down pipe? Are either of these necessary?
dngspot
Premium Member
I am not using any metal in the box. They have been running uninterrupted for about a week now. I have them located right under my lights, the reflector seen in my pics, houses a 400 watt MH. They are also covered with no vent holes. Heat is not and has not been a problem.
I am sorry but I still do not get you bearing setup. To make the bearing work you would need a outer housing for the bearing to press into, or some thing pressing down on the outer diameter, to keep it from moving. The center should not be pressed onto anything that will be making contact with the box. You may have this but I cannot wrap my mind around it.
I plan on getting a piece of tubing or making a housing out of acrylic for the bearing. This project will wait after I make a couple of the units for a friend. The grease is working well and will not need to be re-greased for a long time, but the bearing will be maintenance free.
I am sorry but I still do not get you bearing setup. To make the bearing work you would need a outer housing for the bearing to press into, or some thing pressing down on the outer diameter, to keep it from moving. The center should not be pressed onto anything that will be making contact with the box. You may have this but I cannot wrap my mind around it.
I plan on getting a piece of tubing or making a housing out of acrylic for the bearing. This project will wait after I make a couple of the units for a friend. The grease is working well and will not need to be re-greased for a long time, but the bearing will be maintenance free.
miwoodar
Likey the bikey
I thought the bearing would need a bracket but it's fine without.
The inner race makes contact with the nut. The outer race makes contact with the nylon washer underneath. The bearing is held snugly between the two, does not slip, and does not bind. In the pictures though...it's doesn't appear that the washer is large enough to support the outer race, it is though.
If you want to make a bracket, you could just glue a small tab of acrylic to hold the bearing snugly in the corner. No?
The inner race makes contact with the nut. The outer race makes contact with the nylon washer underneath. The bearing is held snugly between the two, does not slip, and does not bind. In the pictures though...it's doesn't appear that the washer is large enough to support the outer race, it is though.
If you want to make a bracket, you could just glue a small tab of acrylic to hold the bearing snugly in the corner. No?
adamblackburn22
New member
Just spent a few hours trying to fabricate the down pipe and the down pipe holders. This DIY is a complete mess. I'll try and buy the couplers instead of trying to boar out a bigger pvc pipe. Also had trouble with the arms. O and glue nothing would hold solid. I'm very frustrated at this point. Finger tips have glue all over them,Garage is a mess and I've got to buy another 4x4x2 box because I screwed it up. I customize old cars for fun and I can't even do this! LMAO:uzi:
adamblackburn22
New member
:thumbsup:
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