DIY Wavebox! (With modded MJ)

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8937114#post8937114 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by fload
I don't think float switches are the best solution, they are very unreliable, and I personally wouldn't want to tie two of them togather with a maxijet and a wall socket, just my opinion

Done properly the float switches would work just fine. They are certainly reliable when used properly. The floats would be used in a low voltage setup with a latching relay. Solid state would be even better. Though some sort of timing would still be needed as the oscillation rate would need to be fine tuned. The timer could be as easy as a variable shunting resistor and capacitor. The higher the resistance the slower the bleed off on the cap and the longer the delay between starts.

Bean
 
I belive this will work but the top switch should be on the outside of the box, on some sort of adjustable bracket , the wave it self would create the timing and I think you would need a faster pump in order to empty the box faster to accompany the wave on the way out before it returns.
the box should also have some holes/opening to allow more water in, this should be a adjustable opening so you can tune how mush water goes in to the box and how fast.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8936959#post8936959 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RandyStacyE

wavebox1.jpg
 
Use the two floatswitches and make both switches moveable. Mount them on Magholders (the one for powerheads) and both will be extremely adjustable. Or you could just make one float completely adjustable with the mag mount. It's really easy to do and would give a lot of room for manueverability. This part of the setup is easy. The only difficult part is making sure the pump can take that kind of abuse, because switching on and off per second or faster is just hard on any pump.

If the pump can last for more than a year before burning out, it might be worth it.

Peace,
John
 
I know that the float switches are not what you guys are all looking for, but I can't get over the fact that there is a fully functional DIY in that video using floats. I would prefer a timer over floats too.

I drew that 'safety overflow' only because many were concerned about what would happen if the MJ started up in reverse and for some reason it overflowed the box.
 
problom with switches is its harder to fine tune the resonance.. your gonna be moving them non stop and that is a pita
 
Going back to the plunger displacement idea. Isn't there a way to draw a direct correlation/equation between the displaced volume required and the volume/dimensions of the tank? If you could figure that out, you could use the plunger method rather easily. Just run an eccentric on the output shaft of whatever motor your're using. The eccentric pushes down on the plunger displacing water. As long as there is air trapped under the plunger (a la Ocean Motions revolutions) it will return to its upright position following the decreasing profile on the eccentric; in turn allowing water to surge back into the box. If you could nail the equation, you could alter the dimensions of the eccentric to achieve the correct cycle rate with a constant RPM submersible AC pump. Probably impractical for smaller length tanks, but something to think about just the same.

Chris
 
I think a plunger style wavemaker would work great. I was trying to design something to that effect before this project, and I just couldn't find a way to make it work well. You really don't even need a plunger though. You could literally have a box the size of mine sealed and mounted in a channel. Then have a wiper motor (or some other motor) connected to it that makes the whole box lower and rise in the water. This would cause the same displacement effect. Then, it you made an inverted box on the bottom hsection of it with a slot out the front, it would direct the water out the front instead of just pushing it all around.
 
im going to plumb and external box this weekend using a wiper motor and a small float. the previous servo was overkill. so we shall see.
 
Gents I think you are heading down the area of the Wave2K Wave box. If you got a stainless steel rod (knurled like a pump action screw driver) and placed it top to bottom of the center of the box. Place a threaded platform on it and a belt with an external motor all you would have to do is control the speed.

www.wave2k.com

There are a couple of movies on the site showing you what it does and how it works.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8944817#post8944817 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Sentinal
Actually you could probably use a light dimmer switch. I have used on to control the speed of my router numerous times.

That is supposed to be a (one) not an (on) LOL:rolleyes:
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8941885#post8941885 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by goda
problom with switches is its harder to fine tune the resonance.. your gonna be moving them non stop and that is a pita

Have you tried this yourself? It seems like you must have done it before since you immediately discredit the idea as a "pita".

You take maybe 30 minutes to dial in the floats and then after that, it's set and if your magnets are strong and stable you won't have to worry about the things till you have to give them a good cleaning. :) You do it by increments and it should not be a problem once the floats are set in place.

Peace,
John H.
 
Great project. I've read through the first few pages of this thread.

Regarding your controller and MJ....
Is there a way for you to run the MJ very slowly (almost stopping) while the box fills up? This way you will never run into mechanical stoppers in the MJ and maintain the life of the device (aka no on/off cycle).

Just some thoughts.. not sure if this was asked or addressed previously (I got lazy and decided not read and just post :) )
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8946357#post8946357 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rufio173

You take maybe 30 minutes to dial in the floats and then after that, it's set and if your magnets are strong and stable you won't have to worry about the things till you have to give them a good cleaning. :) You do it by increments and it should not be a problem once the floats are set in place.
It's a little more involved than that - start with the simple fact that you'll be moving in <1/8" increments... Initial dial-in may take a lot longer than you anticipate. Especially as the timing is relatively sensitive.

If you magmount them - dunno about your magnets but that kind of precision isn't easy to get. Wave action/vibration is likely also to move the magnets. (and we wont discuss kids/pets/significant others).

There's also the re-adjustments that may be required... If water levels changed, pump efficiency changed, resevoir capacity changes (think sediment). The list of variables is long unfortunately.

If you wanted to do it based on float switches you'd be better off using float switches mounted in the main display and some relatively simple relay wiring such that when the wave crests on the far side of the tank, shuts off powerhead, when it hits the near side - turns on. Still you'd need to tinker with timing - but it'd be more reliable than the water level inside the wavebox... But then again you'd need some kind of timer system to help you get going initially.
 
looks like its working fairly well too me.. if i try something like this we are def gonna have to do something about getting it to turn on and off quietly..

i was thinking.. would this be to much stress on a 75 gallon?? its only 4 feet wide so i dont know that i would have enough width for this to work
 
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