DIY Zero Edge
- Thread starter Rosseau
- Start date
JaredWaites
Premium Member
As far as the check valves go, I haven't really seen anything encrust in a pipe that has water flowing through it, with no light contact before. Even in saltwater. Maybe the biofilm could be an issue...but some pool pipes develop a film as well, and I've never seen them pose this problem.
I also have used plenty of PVC Check valves that are marine rated might I add, on pipe anywhere from 1"-8" for the aquarium here...ball valves fail more than I've seen check valves fail and break.
JaredWaites
Premium Member
That's if your not properly balancing the tank, then I can see it falling out of the water and collecting, yes I do agree there.
But if you maintain your aquarium and keep your parameters at reasonable levels, then I know you'll get long life from the valves...I think if it was feasible, monthly cleaning would be a good idea...but you would have to have unions or something on your damn check valves.
But if you maintain your aquarium and keep your parameters at reasonable levels, then I know you'll get long life from the valves...I think if it was feasible, monthly cleaning would be a good idea...but you would have to have unions or something on your damn check valves.
JaredWaites
Premium Member
No plenty of people rely on them, its a matter of preference and if your always tip toeing around basically.
Install unions with your check valve so you can regularly inspect and clean it. Simple as that.
Install unions with your check valve so you can regularly inspect and clean it. Simple as that.
mikeelmore
New member
I own a new zeroedge its not diy but may be able to shed some light on them. After keeping SW aquarium for 25 years I have never seen a tank that relies on a check valve.
My tank is a little bigger than the ones posted as diy on the first page. Its plumbed with 1.5" plumbing for the return feed pump. The drains are the boxes that came with the tank. It has two check valves and a ball valves in the return pipe. Initially the tank was set up with a Danner Mag Drive 36 this was the pump that came with the tank. It did not flow enough water to evenly flow over the sides.
I installed one 2 inch check valve and it failed the first night due to the turbidity of a newly set up tank. After the water cleared it worked fine. I added a second check valve for added security.
Adding the second valve caused a reduction in flow that is making the tank not flow evenly over the sides and splash, again. The pump is a standard Reef flo dart rated at 3600gph. I will be changing the ball balve from 1.5" to 2" this weekend. It may bring the flow back up.
The tank was not "prebent" as stated earlier. The sides are square from all directions exactly 90 degrees. With the tank shut down and full the 42" front bends .006" the sides do not bend.
The stand that came with the tank is cheap junk and not what would be expected for such a high priced aquarium. If the ball valve does not bring the flow up enough, this tank will be going back on craigs list. We wont be changing pumps again.
Hope this help
Mike E
My tank is a little bigger than the ones posted as diy on the first page. Its plumbed with 1.5" plumbing for the return feed pump. The drains are the boxes that came with the tank. It has two check valves and a ball valves in the return pipe. Initially the tank was set up with a Danner Mag Drive 36 this was the pump that came with the tank. It did not flow enough water to evenly flow over the sides.
I installed one 2 inch check valve and it failed the first night due to the turbidity of a newly set up tank. After the water cleared it worked fine. I added a second check valve for added security.
Adding the second valve caused a reduction in flow that is making the tank not flow evenly over the sides and splash, again. The pump is a standard Reef flo dart rated at 3600gph. I will be changing the ball balve from 1.5" to 2" this weekend. It may bring the flow back up.
The tank was not "prebent" as stated earlier. The sides are square from all directions exactly 90 degrees. With the tank shut down and full the 42" front bends .006" the sides do not bend.
The stand that came with the tank is cheap junk and not what would be expected for such a high priced aquarium. If the ball valve does not bring the flow up enough, this tank will be going back on craigs list. We wont be changing pumps again.
Hope this help
Mike E
JaredWaites
Premium Member
I think you should re-design your pluming to where you don't need a check valve if your already having them fail, especially the first night, whether the turbidity caused it or not. You thinking it was from the salt not being mixed up thoroughly, or substrate clouding, correct? My tank has a 2" Check valve, it doesn't have any unions on it for cleaning, once I relocate my tank in a week, I'll be installing some unions there as well as replacing the check valve, for ****s and grins 
If you have the ability to set your tank up like hahn said above, I think that's a great way to have it setup without check valves.
If you have the ability to set your tank up like hahn said above, I think that's a great way to have it setup without check valves.
I would never trust a check valve either.
I set one up ONCE for a 300G hex tank. The power went out and the check valve hammered shut, then bounced back open, over and over, causing an oscillation like for a ram pump. The water kept coming.
Oh, and saltwater pipes certainly do fill with critters over time. Raw seawater is much worse than our tanks, but over time you will still get growth.
NSW pipes at MBA:
http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/video/video_popup_pigging.asp
I set one up ONCE for a 300G hex tank. The power went out and the check valve hammered shut, then bounced back open, over and over, causing an oscillation like for a ram pump. The water kept coming.
Oh, and saltwater pipes certainly do fill with critters over time. Raw seawater is much worse than our tanks, but over time you will still get growth.
NSW pipes at MBA:
http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/video/video_popup_pigging.asp
vareefer4life
New member
If you are going to install check valves, why not get clear pvc ones? That way you don't have to take it apart to make sure it is working!!!!
Don,
What failed? The check valve? Shocking
The way Hahnmeister drew it up would work if the plumbing were large enough to gravity feed the display with what the pump is putting out into the reservoir. WITH an emergency overflow BTW
I did this in reverse for drains in a circular tank in the middle of a room. Core drilled the floor, ran over to a closet, drilled back up through, into a Hartford loop, then back through the floor to the sump
What failed? The check valve? Shocking
The way Hahnmeister drew it up would work if the plumbing were large enough to gravity feed the display with what the pump is putting out into the reservoir. WITH an emergency overflow BTW
I did this in reverse for drains in a circular tank in the middle of a room. Core drilled the floor, ran over to a closet, drilled back up through, into a Hartford loop, then back through the floor to the sump
It wont gravity feed 3000 gph with 2" plumbing. The big 4" pipe just overflowed and emptied the sump. I think if it went in the top of the tank it would be ok but going in the bottom under the water pressure of the tank all it did was fill the tube and flood. I'm going over there tonight to take it all out and set up a jandy valve. His insurance will cover the damage so after a few beers he'll cool off and fix it.
Don
Don
You could also use the external reservoir (4" pipe) idea, with the checkvalve on the vent line at the top. So when the pump starts, the check valve closes, when the pump stops the check valve opens, breaking any siphon.
In this manner, the check valve should only ever see air, not water.
Lots of ways to skin this cat.
In this manner, the check valve should only ever see air, not water.
Lots of ways to skin this cat.
hahnmeister
In Memoriam
How large is the ID of the pipe going from the bottom of the 4" standpipe to the bottom of the tank? And how far is it? For 3000gph, you should have at least 1.5" diameter pipe since its gravity fed.
And then, the pipe needs to be a good few feet above the waterline in the tank so the pressure results in flow... the more the back-pressure due to the plumbing, the taller the pipe.
And then there is the check valve idea... cap the top of the 4" pipe and have a 1/4" airline coming out of the top with a check valve on it that only lets air in, but not out, like H20 said, then when the standpipe is in use, it will not allow water or air out the top, but when it shuts off, it will act as a siphon break just like the open top. I like that idea even better... the valve never sees water at all.
And then, the pipe needs to be a good few feet above the waterline in the tank so the pressure results in flow... the more the back-pressure due to the plumbing, the taller the pipe.
And then there is the check valve idea... cap the top of the 4" pipe and have a 1/4" airline coming out of the top with a check valve on it that only lets air in, but not out, like H20 said, then when the standpipe is in use, it will not allow water or air out the top, but when it shuts off, it will act as a siphon break just like the open top. I like that idea even better... the valve never sees water at all.
4" pipe about 12" above the water line plumbed with 2" spa flex just on the other side of the wall. 8 ft tall stuck in the attic access. He did a nice job it just didnt work. If you think about it, it wasnt even close to 3000 gph the pump is rated at 3600 at 0 head so there had to have been at least 12ft of head. He turned it on it looked like it was working so he ran to the store and came back to the flood. Its all back off and the jandy is installed. Just need to hook up the actuator and get a couple of alarm panel batteries.
The 2" valve fixed the flow and is definatly a cleaner installation.
Don
