Do LEDs really last 10,000+ hours?

All i know is that my LED moons on my T5 HO fixture have burnt out twice in two years (Less than 8hrs a day on). The manufacturer replaced the first set under warranty, but the second is still out and I'm out of warranty. At this point I will replace them with an aftermarket pair and retrofit them into the fixture.

My point is that i was thinking of replacing the T5 HO fixture with an LED fixture, but after all of this, now i don't trust them. :worried:
 
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As mentioned, led life span really has to do with proper cooling and proper amperage feed (power). Heat is the led killer and again as mentioned, running led at reduced output (dimmed) will increase lifespan above manufacturers specs. In my case I have a powerhouse caddilac, the Vertex Illumina :love2: I run at max 50% during only a few hours a day and the balance is less as they are very slowly ramped up, held for a few hours and then very slowly ramped down. In this case if the manufactures claims 50,000 hrs I may last 20+ years.

My thinking for longevity is to get a larger system than required and simply drive the led with reduced power to increase life substantially, reduce heat substantially, (my fan senses heat and turns on if required, has never come on yet) and possibly never need to change a power supply as it also is working very lightly.

The most problematic part in led system is the power supply IMHO. In less than 3 months the power supply blew on my Maxspec. In about 7 months the power supply blew on my JBJ nano LED. Both of these systems run full bore and are not dimmable.
 
I've been using CFLs in my house for 10 years now, and have found that on average they last about 5x the time that incandescents in the same fixtures lasted. There are exceptions - they last about the same in fully-enclosed un-vented fixtures as incandescents (the ballasts need to be able to cool), and every now and then I've gotten a bad batch (most of those seemed to be about three years ago). Likewise, I've had some last far longer than rated - I have a pair of CFLs rated for 8k hours that both have over 12k hours on them.

A year ago I installed my last CFL can light and started replacing them (as they go bad) with LED lights. I've only replaced two so far. Only time will tell. If they last as long as the makers claim (I'm using CREE bulbs rated for 50K hours, and these are replacing Ushio CCFL bulbs rated for 20K hours) I won't truly know for 20 years. For the non-can lights, I've not used all of my standard 60W replacement CFLs up yet, but also plan to stop buying those too and switch to LED.

I suspect you've not heard of many people doing this because: 1. It takes a long time assuming people do it as their current bulbs go bad, and 2. LED bulbs are expensive (the CREE can bulbs I'm buying cost $90 each). Even though they SHOULD pay for themselves in theory, the initial capital outlay is more than many people can stomach.


The tank: I use a 4-bulb T5 fixture, and a pair of Marineland Reef LED fixtures as supplemental lighting. I plan to replace the T5s with LED but not until next winter when my current T5 bulbs are due for replacement.
 
As mentioned, led life span really has to do with proper cooling and proper amperage feed (power). Heat is the led killer My thinking for longevity is to get a larger system than required and simply drive the led with reduced power to increase life substantially, reduce heat substantially, (my fan senses heat and turns on if required, has never come on yet) and possibly never need to change a power supply as it also is working very lightly.

QUOTE]

I have also found that most of the major LED systems under drive their LEDs to increase the life of the diodes. Under driving reduces heat produced, making it easier to cool properly.
 
I've been using CFLs in my house for 10 years now, and have found that on average they last about 5x the time that incandescents in the same fixtures lasted. There are exceptions - they last about the same in fully-enclosed un-vented fixtures as incandescents (the ballasts need to be able to cool), and every now and then I've gotten a bad batch (most of those seemed to be about three years ago). Likewise, I've had some last far longer than rated - I have a pair of CFLs rated for 8k hours that both have over 12k hours on them.

A year ago I installed my last CFL can light and started replacing them (as they go bad) with LED lights. I've only replaced two so far. Only time will tell. If they last as long as the makers claim (I'm using CREE bulbs rated for 50K hours, and these are replacing Ushio CCFL bulbs rated for 20K hours) I won't truly know for 20 years. For the non-can lights, I've not used all of my standard 60W replacement CFLs up yet, but also plan to stop buying those too and switch to LED.

I suspect you've not heard of many people doing this because: 1. It takes a long time assuming people do it as their current bulbs go bad, and 2. LED bulbs are expensive (the CREE can bulbs I'm buying cost $90 each). Even though they SHOULD pay for themselves in theory, the initial capital outlay is more than many people can stomach.

Interesting as I have replaced all my halogen Par 30 lights in the soffit of my house with the led variety also but went the "beehive" led style route for cost reasons as they were only $14 each. They are also rated 50,000 hrs and draw only 4 watts/bulb. The lighting is superb and the total string draws only 128 watts compared to 1600 watts before. Yes I have 32 lights outside.:bigeyes: I have only been running them for a year but the warranty is 5 years. According to the supplier, 5 years constant on is 62,000 hrs. running normally about 5 hours/day I am supposed to be good for 1000 years. :lol: Regardless, energy consumption is way down there and if they last 10 years I will be more than happy.
 
So are the different versions the same LEDs just driven at different currents? (350, 700 and 1000 milliamps)
 
As mentioned, led life span really has to do with proper cooling and proper amperage feed (power). Heat is the led killer and again as mentioned, running led at reduced output (dimmed) will increase lifespan above manufacturers specs. In my case I have a powerhouse caddilac, the Vertex Illumina :love2: I run at max 50% during only a few hours a day and the balance is less as they are very slowly ramped up, held for a few hours and then very slowly ramped down. In this case if the manufactures claims 50,000 hrs I may last 20+ years.

My thinking for longevity is to get a larger system than required and simply drive the led with reduced power to increase life substantially, reduce heat substantially, (my fan senses heat and turns on if required, has never come on yet) and possibly never need to change a power supply as it also is working very lightly.

The most problematic part in led system is the power supply IMHO. In less than 3 months the power supply blew on my Maxspec. In about 7 months the power supply blew on my JBJ nano LED. Both of these systems run full bore and are not dimmable.

I agree, Midnight have u tried to make any attemps at keeping your power source cool? Also by running your leds on half power is it safe to asumme than you are not getting full effieciancy from your leds(need more leds to get your lumen/par/ppf/ppfd up?) more leds more heat back to square 1. cost/ effieciancy is reduced buy having more leds to creat same light out put?

Ijust dont believe that the average personne really will ever notice leds full potiential.

Yes your leds should last longer than 10,000 hrs.
 
Actually the efficiency increases at lower current. The max lum/watt is at 350 milliamperes I believe, it decreases as you approach max current
 
I agree, Midnight have u tried to make any attemps at keeping your power source cool? Also by running your leds on half power is it safe to asumme than you are not getting full effieciancy from your leds(need more leds to get your lumen/par/ppf/ppfd up?) more leds more heat back to square 1. cost/ effieciancy is reduced buy having more leds to creat same light out put?

Ijust dont believe that the average personne really will ever notice leds full potiential.

Yes your leds should last longer than 10,000 hrs.

Like I said my led system is so powerful I can run it at half the required output and still be fine for any coral growth. That being said, running at half power reduces heat substantially which will add to longevity on all components. My previous attempts were maxspec and nano cube led which basically run full out all the time. Nothing wrong with this but design is critical and unfortunately most run on the edge which affects long term durability. To answer your question regarding efficiency, yes the output is reduced but I have twice the power required.

Compare it to running a car at very high speed all the time or running it at speed limit all the time. Which is going to last longer in the long run?
 
So inefect, you believe running your leds sub par of there disinged intended use will give you better results than what the manafacturer quotes this already being at optimal conditions? all where really aming for is 24 to 30 degrees for optimal temp not very hard to do considering it can be done to a 1000w hps. producing bairly any warmth to the touch ( the glass tube, not the bulb, great effects with the life span of Hort blues/super blues and others)

I will assume that you dont cool your powersource or havnt tried to, i would expect the same result from your newest controller, short life spans. Heat and humidity is a killer in any lighting system and most electronics.

you only lose the efficiency in the conversion of watt to lumen/heat ratio(i use lumen losely) Heat be the end result, producing to much heat in comparison to how much light. you cant expect to get the same kelvin ( kelvin used losely) temp from your diode by dimming them.

Prebuilt systems are really expensive, and even the more expensive ones will not last more than 10,000 hrs. Unfortunate to say the least. When they can run much much longer, at a even lower expense.
I'm sorry for maybe ruining your thread, new to the forum thing too.
 
Pink_n_Purple,

Again, welcome to the forum, but you are not understanding how LED systems work, or the physics of electricity involved.

So inefect, you believe running your leds sub par of there disinged intended use will give you better results than what the manafacturer quotes this already being at optimal conditions?

Running LEDs at a lower temperature and/or lower current is not a 'sub par' condition or somehow outside of 'optimal conditions'. You could argue that the lower temp/current is MORE optimal for them.


As mentioned above, most LEDs are the most efficient at 350ma, which gives the highest lumen/energy output. The efficiency decreases as you approach max current. If you would take 5 minutes to read the datasheet you would see that 350ma is the 'sweet spot' for many LEDs like the Cree ones used in most fixtures today, but they run well at higher currents as well. Also, keeping the LEDs cooler allows them to run more efficiently (just like many other electronics). LEDs have an upper temperature limit, not really a lower one. I could run my LEDs at 0 deg C and they would run fine. That is not outside of their 'optimal conditions'.

all where really aming for is 24 to 30 degrees for optimal temp

So many grammar and spelling errors, but anyway, no we are not. All we are aiming for is a temp BELOW the upper threshold, not really a tight range between 24 and 30. Again, you need to understand the difference here between an UPPER LIMIT for usage (LEDs), and a LIMITED RANGE (CFLs).

I will assume that you dont cool your powersource or havnt tried to, i would expect the same result from your newest controller, short life spans. Heat and humidity is a killer in any lighting system and most electronics.

Again, you are making general speculations about something without consulting the datasheet. You do not need to actively cool a LED driver (power source) as long as you are running it within spec. Are you assuming that almost every LED driver used is being run improperly? You are basically assuming that everyone from the designing engineer to the home user is an idiot.

You mention humidity above as well in reference to drivers, so again see a datasheet, but lets assume you are talking about humidity exposure for LEDs themselves in a hood. Let me quote directly from the Cree datasheet (will provide link below).

"Moisture Sensitivity
In testing, Cree has found XLamp XP-G LEDs to have unlimited floor life in conditions ≤30oC / 85% relative humidity (RH). Moisture testing included a 168 hour soak at 85oC / 85% RH followed by 3 reflow cycles, with visual and electrical inspections at each stage."

Sounds like they are pretty darn resistant to me.

you only lose the efficiency in the conversion of watt to lumen/heat ratio(i use lumen losely) Heat be the end result, producing to much heat in comparison to how much light. you cant expect to get the same kelvin ( kelvin used losely) temp from your diode by dimming them.

I don't really get what you are trying to say here, but I will give the link to the datasheet for Cree XP-G LEDs now.....

http://www.cree.com/products/pdf/xlampxp-g.pdf

Prebuilt systems are really expensive, and even the more expensive ones will not last more than 10,000 hrs. Unfortunate to say the least. When they can run much much longer, at a even lower expense.
I'm sorry for maybe ruining your thread, new to the forum thing too.

Many LED systems now cost the same if not less than some similar MH setups. Even if they cost more, many can make up for the difference in less than a year, but I really don't feel like trying to show you what has been calculated many times already on this board. They won't last more than 10,000 hours? Where is your proof other than just your speculative opinion? Read the datasheet, yes they will last longer, or do you not believe in science?

Landon
 
OMG i dont know how to multi quote!!!! this is confusing im sorry.

Again, welcome to the forum, but you are not understanding how LED systems work, or the physics of electricity involved.

Thank you, and no im not an electrical engineer nor do i own a spellchecker, or i cant find it.:spin1:

Running LEDs at a lower temperature and/or lower current is not a 'sub par' condition or somehow outside of 'optimal conditions'. You could argue that the lower temp/current is MORE optimal for them.

Keeping abient temp and heat sink temps in check are very important to longivity of your led and power supply. Dimming your lights can help manage this, but it may alter the light wavelength. I believe the cost per lumen increases when operating at lower voltages. Initial setup costs are larger. More diodes, more drivers+dimmers more space taken up more potientiall issues may arise. Replacement costs also rise as a result. I'm interested, Can lenses be reused? i've never heard of this, honest question.


As mentioned above, most LEDs are the most efficient at 350ma, which gives the highest lumen/energy output. The efficiency decreases as you approach max current.

your right, but operating at higher ma should not effect there lifespan, if cooled properly.


If you would take 5 minutes to read the datasheet you would see that 350ma is the 'sweet spot' for many LEDs like the Cree ones used in most fixtures today, but they run well at higher currents as well. Also, keeping the LEDs cooler allows them to run more efficiently

Giving them there natoriously long life span of 30,000 hrs with little shift in color, something companies such as Cree and others state.

(just like many other electronics). LEDs have an upper temperature limit, not really a lower one. I could run my LEDs at 0 deg C and they would run fine. That is not outside of their 'optimal conditions'.

Most systems run at there upper limit, including most diy, even dimmed.
yes but my point is that heat creats a loss in voltage and can increase load on your power supply, requiring power supplies to work harder, and getting a short 1-2 year life span.


So many grammar and spelling errors, but anyway, no we are not. All we are aiming for is a temp BELOW the upper threshold, not really a tight range between 24 and 30.

Ambient air temp in and around you leds and power source have a direct effect on there effectiveness to "cool themselves" . most systems are inclosed and some r even further inclosed within there tank setup. Why r you aiming for the upper threshold when a lower temp is possible and not that inconvieniant, expensive or hard to do and would result in a longer life span.

Again, you need to understand the difference here between an UPPER LIMIT for usage (LEDs), and a LIMITED RANGE (CFLs).

Yes and as stated most run at there upper limit. Thats why most consumers start to see color shift or dimming after anly 15,000 hrs-20,000hrs @ best.


Again, you are making general speculations about something without consulting the datasheet. You do not need to actively cool a LED driver (power source) as long as you are running it within spec. Are you assuming that almost every LED driver used is being run improperly? You are basically assuming that everyone from the designing engineer to the home user is an idiot.

i'm making speculations upon reall world use. I should start a thread---"has your led system ran 20,000hrs without any noticable loss of light or burnt power supplies?" or "has you led system dimmed noticbly in the last year or two of opperation".

You mention humidity above as well in reference to drivers, so again see a datasheet, but lets assume you are talking about humidity exposure for LEDs themselves in a hood. Let me quote directly from the Cree datasheet (will provide link below).

poor soldering connections, exposed wire, also dry and cracked wire insulation was my worry. espicially when running wire close to or inside heat sinks.

"Moisture Sensitivity
In testing, Cree has found XLamp XP-G LEDs to have unlimited floor life in conditions ≤30oC / 85% relative humidity (RH). Moisture testing included a 168 hour soak at 85oC / 85% RH followed by 3 reflow cycles, with visual and electrical inspections at each stage."

Sounds like they are pretty darn resistant to me.

except that at higher ambient temps air can hold a much greater water volume, and temps are usually higher than 30oC around the diodes and power supplies. When the lights, and power source go out there can be a build up of condinsation as the air cools, if your power supply isnt 100% air tight or have exposed wire and is sitting in these conditions than there is a chance for this type damage to occur, which could result in unexpected failure, or loss of life expectancy. ie a controller lasting alittle longer than a year.



I don't really get what you are trying to say here, but I will give the link to the datasheet for Cree XP-G LEDs now.....

i believe what i was try'n to explain was that there is a limit at wich point the diode produces more heat than light and is deemed inefficient.


http://www.cree.com/products/pdf/xlampxp-g.pdf



Many LED systems now cost the same if not less than some similar MH setups. Even if they cost more, many can make up for the difference in less than a year, but I really don't feel like trying to show you what has been calculated many times already on this board. They won't last more than 10,000 hours? Where is your proof other than just your speculative opinion? Read the datasheet, yes they will last longer, or do you not believe in science?

Savings in hydro use r different from place to place for instance i only pay 5 cent a kwh when lights are on pretty cheap when compared to others so the savings vary, then add in unexpected failures and that savings may not be as great for some. ie me, cheap hydro.

No there not idiots thats why we spend our money on these systems and seem to be content with short life spans of our led's and controlers. I never stated that they wont last longer, quite the opposite. it just seems that the majority of users, in the reall world situations, wont ever really experience the FULL POTENTIAL of there led systems. Mainly due to improper heat managment, resulting in shorter life spans.

this last paragraph is what i originally wanted to get across.
Cheers!
 
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OMG i dont know how to multi quote!!!! this is confusing im sorry.

You have to use a quote tag set for each section you want to quote. You cannot type anything yourself in between the quote tags.

For example the above looks like this to properly quote. {QUOTE=Pink_n_Purple;18516800}OMG i dont know how to multi quote!!!! this is confusing im sorry.{/quote}

You just have to replace the {s with [s.

Going to sleep as I have to dive early in the morning, will read over the whole thing later.
 
LEDs last as long as the best test run someone ever did under the best circumstances on the best day, of the best month, of the best year, ....ect ...ect ect... you get the point. The life expectancy is normally based off this type of data to make a product sound better. I really have not seen actual data to support the claim but i am assuming that is where it came from as most findings come from the same type of thing. OR if they are good about it, it will be the average life expectancy, meaning they tested say 1000, and half lasted that long, some more, some less.
 
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