Do you run your RO/DI all the time?

exsequor

New member
Fellow Reefers...,What size output RO/DI do you have? Do you run it all the time?

How much water (total - including waste) do you use for your RO/DI per month?
 
Why would you run a rodi all the time?

I have a 90 gpd spectrapure refurbished, waste ratio is 3.5. I use 135 gallon a month for topoff (a gallon a day), and 180 gallons on 10% weekly changes. Total monthly water usage is 315 gallons on a 120g tank, maybe a couple extra gallons to clean testing vials and tank glass.
 
Leaving it on all the time is bad for it. It is good to make a larger batch of water less frequent. It is even better if you can bypass the DI and run the first gallon or two down the drain. Best case scenario is you fast flush the membrane before and after use.

I make roughly 400gal at a time and use somewhere around 10 gallons a day for top off.
 
I just got my 150gpd. I flushed it for 30 minutes with the flush valve engaged as per the instruction manual. I have a 175 storage tank + 55 gallon storage drum

My previous ro/di couldn't keep up with all that storage capacity combined with my daily water requirements of 20 gallons between all my tanks.

I just hooked up the 150gpd yesterday and it's filled my 230g storage system about 1/4 full so far. I'm HOPING to be able to fill the 230g ro.di store system and be able to turn the unit off, but we will have to see.

It seems you guys must have bigger RO/DI's then 150gpd, or you guys have smaller store tanks or less daily water requirements or? I don't want to assume, that why I'm asking, so thank you. I'll try not to run the ro/di all the time, I just don't know yet, if that's possible.
 
I have 50g container for fresh and 50g for salt water. I have a shutoff valve installed in the fresh water container. It shuts off when it is full, and make water when it is not full. I don't turn on/off anything manually.
 
The RO/DI should be "working" only when you need water..
Even a "small" system can make 50 gallons per day..
If you need that much then you work at a public aquarium..
 
My output of water is 1 gallon per hour, not including waste. Turned on just in advance of needing it. I keep 5gal for topping off a 90gal. Setting up an additional 55 gal this week, and just order d an extra membrane for $30, that re-filters waste water, alleging to double good water.


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I don't think it's a problem to run it all the time if you need the water. It's running it for short periods, off and on, that is bad for the DI resins. It's inefficient. Best to make at least 30 gallons at a time.
 
My RO makes 180gpd. Dual Spectrapure 99% membranes with a booster pump.

Two 200gal storage tanks. One for RO that has it's own DI closed loop and one for Salt.
 
Oh I have a auto shut off kit for my ro/di's (float switch with the ro/di solenoid)..I'm just saying I haven't had to turn my ro/di's off in forever. Hoping going from a 55gpd to 150gpd will let it be able to shut off every now and then, but if not, as was said earlier, running it all the time shouldn't be bad per-say, I'll just have to replace the membranes more frequently, obviously.

Well I'd imagine the public aquariums got the big RO's, but I can't imagine I'm the *only* one to have my Ro/di not quite keep up with my water needs!
 
my BRS 6 STAGE UNIVERSAL PLUS RO/DI SYSTEM - 75GPD makes about 120 GPD ever since i upgraded the water supply line from 1/4 to 3/8th with 2 gals waste for every 1 gal made

i use my RO/DI system for drinking water and icemaker so its always on... bypassed before the DI resin with a one way valve.
 
l you upgrade dthe stock 1/4" tubing for 3/8" tubing on the unit itself? Or are you referring to your water line-in/hose
 
****So did you upgrade the stock 1/4" tubing for 3/8" tubing on the unit itself? Or are you referring to your water line-in/hose****
 
just the water line-in/hose. psi would drop 10-20 psi when RO was runing with 1/4 line,now with 3/8th line psi drops max 3 psi unless prefilter is old...
 
you could upgarde the RO housing with 3/8th fitting and hoses but i dont think it would help as much as upgrading the supply line alone does...
 
I just got my 150gpd. I flushed it for 30 minutes with the flush valve engaged as per the instruction manual. I have a 175 storage tank + 55 gallon storage drum

My previous ro/di couldn't keep up with all that storage capacity combined with my daily water requirements of 20 gallons between all my tanks.

I just hooked up the 150gpd yesterday and it's filled my 230g storage system about 1/4 full so far. I'm HOPING to be able to fill the 230g ro.di store system and be able to turn the unit off, but we will have to see.

It seems you guys must have bigger RO/DI's then 150gpd, or you guys have smaller store tanks or less daily water requirements or? I don't want to assume, that why I'm asking, so thank you. I'll try not to run the ro/di all the time, I just don't know yet, if that's possible.

Sounds like you have a supply pressure problem or something going on here. If your only using on average, 20gpd, then anything over a 20gpd production membrane will keep up with your needs. Your storage capacity has nothing to do with you not keeping up. Its just storage. Even if you had a 21gpd membrane, you would be keeping up plus filling your storage. It would take 230 days to fill it... but you get my point. Mass balance is In - out. If that number is positive, you are keeping up, if its not, you aren't.
 
I am new to the ro/di game. I just installed a Koolermax Ar 122 model and the water comes out at a trickle

Added a pressure tank and it still comes out at something like 4 gallons per hour.

So how do you fill a tank? Just a pitcher or two at a time?
 
I am new to the ro/di game. I just installed a Koolermax Ar 122 model and the water comes out at a trickle

Added a pressure tank and it still comes out at something like 4 gallons per hour.

So how do you fill a tank? Just a pitcher or two at a time?

You're getting 96 gallons per day which isn't too shabby. It does specify a 120gpd membrane so you're not too far off there.

Pressure tanks aren't ideal for our application. Typically we fill a non pressurized reservoir like a 55gal brute trashcan or an ace roto mold poly tank. I make about 400 gallons at a time.

The single most expensive part of making RODI water is DI resin. Consumption varies depending on the incoming water and what is in it. To save money having a membrane that rejects a very high percentage is ideal. Your system has a 90% rejection membrane which is rather low. A filmtech 75gpd which is considered the standard is somewhere between 96 to 98%. You can buy membranes such as the spectrapure 99% membranes which will be 98 to 99% rejection. A 90% rejection membrane will eat up DI resin quickly, especially if your incoming tds is high. Some people are blessed with low incoming tds and can get away with lower rejection. Time and a TDS meter will tell the quality of water you are getting.
 
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