Do you use Teflon tape for threaded PVC?

It is called plumbers paste, PTFE paste, or a couple other names that escape me right now. You will find it right there with the PVC glue/teflon tapeat any big box hardware store. It is 100% reef safe and very esay to use. It can be a bit messy at first, but a little goes a long way.
 
Teflon tape is primarily a lubricant, enabling you to tighten the connection enough to get a seal. But, PVC fittings aren't nearly as strong as metal pipe fittings, and may crack before you can get them tight enough to be leak free. Manufacturers of PVC fittings always say never use teflon tape on them or the fittings may crack. I have used both, but only use pipe dope if I am concerned about a cracking fitting.
 
The general recommendation is not to use teflon with PVC fittings see this link, but then I found this video from Spears.

My understanding is the major problem with PVC fittings is over tightening. The threads are actually slightly conical, not cylindrical, so if you over tighten them it will split the female connector. By reducing friction, teflon products tend to lead to over tightening and failure. So regardless of what you use, don't over tighten!
 
The general recommendation is not to use teflon with PVC fittings see this link, but then I found this video from Spears.

My understanding is the major problem with PVC fittings is over tightening. The threads are actually slightly conical, not cylindrical, so if you over tighten them it will split the female connector. By reducing friction, teflon products tend to lead to over tightening and failure. So regardless of what you use, don't over tighten!

Thanks for the video.Very informative
 
It is called plumbers paste, PTFE paste, or a couple other names that escape me right now. You will find it right there with the PVC glue/teflon tapeat any big box hardware store. It is 100% reef safe and very esay to use. It can be a bit messy at first, but a little goes a long way.

Nope, it is called a non-hardening thread sealant—and usually does not have PTFE as an ingredient. There is a big difference, unfortunately I am too tired to elaborate. Lasco, has a good article on their website that says NO TAPE, on plastic fittings. (Also says don't mix sch 80 and sch 20 threaded fittings either&mdahs;but that is another thread long topic.) That is not what the tape is for. Tape is for metal pipe. It amazes me how many "professional plumbers" misuse teflon tape every chance they get...
 
It should be noted that tape and teflon paste are not sealents, whereas RectorSeal is a sealant.

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This is actually the most correct statement of fact regarding thread sealing.

Teflon is not a thread sealant, but rather a thread lubricant. The only reason Teflon has some success in a leak free mechanical connection is the installer can engage the threads deeper as the friction is reduced and the connection becomes tighter on itself.

That's not to say that some actual "sealants" do contain Teflon in their composition, such automotive Teflon sealant.

As a tradesman in the industry (16 yrs) I've discovered nearly a 100% successful procedure to ensure leak free joint. If a fitting leaks with my method, most likely there's a manufacture defect and its going to leak anyway.

My method is simple, I use both, three wraps of tape (that's three overlapping thicknesses across the entire length of the threaded joint, in the direction the threads are tightening (usually clockwise)), then a light dab of the tried and true "leather lock", commonly sold under the name "Mega loc".

Incidentally, most retail box home improvement stores are the culprit on this phenomena. As the reality is, if its in the store as a regular product, it's either built "for" that specific store (specifically built to substandard standards), or it is in some way rejected as a quality part and not worthy of being sold to professional tradesman. A tradesman worth his salt can tell where the product came from just by fittment. Always buy plumbing parts from professional suppliers and avoid the headaches associated with dealing with substandard products. Your expensive flooring will thank you.

One more tip, in instances where one has to make a mechanical connection from one type of material to another (example: copper to plastic), ALWAYS (if possible) make the connection where the stronger material is the female thread and the weaker material the male thread. Remember, IPS (pipe) threads are tapered and work by friction compression, and when a stronger material is screwed into a weaker material, your just begging for a fracture type failure.

Hope this helps.

Whoops, didn't see that there was a page 2 on this thread, sorry for the redundant info.
 
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Incidentally, most retail box home improvement stores are the culprit on this phenomena. As the reality is, if its in the store as a regular product, it's either built "for" that specific store (specifically built to substandard standards), or it is in some way rejected as a quality part and not worthy of being sold to professional tradesman. A tradesman worth his salt can tell where the product came from just by fittment. Always buy plumbing parts from professional suppliers and avoid the headaches associated with dealing with substandard products. Your expensive flooring will thank you.

As someone that worked for ipex making and shipping the fittings, this is absolutely not true.

The parts all went into the same boxes off the same line.
When we shipped an order it was the oldest stock sent out first, although for the most part they were loading the last few boxes onto the trucks still warm.
 
I've always added a small amount of 100% silicon (RTV) I tighten a turn more than hand tight. I've never had any leaks and things come apart very easily.
 
As someone that worked for ipex making and shipping the fittings, this is absolutely not true.

The parts all went into the same boxes off the same line.
When we shipped an order it was the oldest stock sent out first, although for the most part they were loading the last few boxes onto the trucks still warm.

Can you speak reliably for Charolette, Lasco, Delta, Moen, or the vast multitude of other suppliers.

Maybe Ipex doesn't, and if they don't, I'll bet the prices at box stores are not cheaper than a professional supplier.

I know for a fact that retail box home improvement stores specifically make contract deals for products known as "retail grade" which are inferior in quality, or substandard where possible.

You'll not convince me otherwise, as I've had far too many vendors confirm this as well as personal, anecdotal experiences to further confirm this phenomena.

Believe what you want though.
 
Can you speak reliably for Charolette, Lasco, Delta, Moen, or the vast multitude of other suppliers.

Maybe Ipex doesn't, and if they don't, I'll bet the prices at box stores are not cheaper than a professional supplier.

I know for a fact that retail box home improvement stores specifically make contract deals for products known as "retail grade" which are inferior in quality, or substandard where possible.

You'll not convince me otherwise, as I've had far too many vendors confirm this as well as personal, anecdotal experiences to further confirm this phenomena.

Believe what you want though.

Those are also different part numbers.

Same as buying electrical stuff, lots looks the same, but it's different part numbers.

Saying the items are engineered substandard isn't really right, they are designed for a different use than commercial or industrial grade parts.

Pricing at different places, yes it's generally better at wholesalers.
 
Those are also different part numbers.

Same as buying electrical stuff, lots looks the same, but it's different part numbers.

Saying the items are engineered substandard isn't really right, they are designed for a different use than commercial or industrial grade parts.

Pricing at different places, yes it's generally better at wholesalers.

Agreed, they are indeed different part numbers. Therein lies the deception.
The inferior product "looks" exactly like the quality product to the untrained eye, and the SLIGHTLY lower price gives the illusion that one is getting a "better" deal. When in reality, the profit margin to the box store is actually higher than that of the "legitimate" quality based businesses.

And to top it off, factory seconds are also given a different part number so as to not confuse the manufacturer when receiving returns, repair, or complaints.

So in essence, without realizing it, you've confirmed my position.

We live in such a throw away society that price is the only determination.

There is both a positive and a negative to this deception. The positive is increased sales (immediate profit) to the manufacturer. But the downside is far more detrimental to the manufacturer in that the reputation for quality suffers over time.

It just helps to be an informed consumer.
 
I take issue that the parts are merely designed for a different purpose when speaking of standard fittings such as those being discussed here. Threads that aren't uniform, fittings that aren't round, weak seams, and large enough tolerances that fittings don't accept the pipe they are designed for is shoddy manufacturing regardless of the intended purpose. These aren't rare occurrences with the parts at big box stores and it has steadily gotten worse since I began frequenting them on a daily basis a decade ago.
 
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