Does Your BRS GFO Reactor Even Work?

Pulsing the flow by opening and closing the valve rapidly, along with tapping like Jim said, will help drop the top half if the media "splits." Honestly I'm sure it works just fine even when split, as long as the granules on top of the bottom group are dancing you know you're pushing the right amount of flow through.

For the record I have eight BRS reactors in constant use on several different setups, all driven by gate valve manifolds and all using the newer clear cartridges. I have no problems at all with them and I've become an BRS evangelist.
 
Short answer: no....
mine seemed to work for a while, then clog....
After a few months of that nonsense. I broke down and bought 2ea TLF 150'S and couldn't be Happier...
there are at least a couple threads here on BRS reactors...

I had it hooked up to a maxi-jet 1200. The flow decreased significantly over a couple of days. So now it's tee'd off of my Iwaki 70rlt, which is more than enough flow. I may have too much GFO in the reactor... It is nearly full (according to BRS Website) 4 cups is required, but it doesn't fit that much...

The GFO granules gets split. Meaning there is about 2" of GFO in the bottom of the reactor, and about 8" in the top of the reactor. The bottom 2" tumbles for a few days, then stops. The flow coming out of the reactor is steady and constant.

if you do a search, you will see the problem comes up from time to time. get a real reactor instead of using a water filter canister. even a maxijet 400 works fine with tlf reactor. you shouldn't have to go as far as hook up a reactor to an iwaki pump.
 
if you do a search, you will see the problem comes up from time to time. get a real reactor instead of using a water filter canister. even a maxijet 400 works fine with tlf reactor. you shouldn't have to go as far as hook up a reactor to an iwaki pump.

I replaced two of the cheaply made, tends to leak TLF reactors with the BRS unit. I agree that the Maxi 400 is all you need. Either you are overfilling it or starting with too much flow, the GFO should stay at the bottom. I start with the flow valve shut and slowly open it until the GFO just tumbles, I've never had a problem.
 
if you do a search, you will see the problem comes up from time to time. get a real reactor instead of using a water filter canister. even a maxijet 400 works fine with tlf reactor. you shouldn't have to go as far as hook up a reactor to an iwaki pump.


So I should replace any piece of equipment if I see a problem come up from time to time from other people?? :headwally::headwally:
 
So I should replace any piece of equipment if I see a problem come up from time to time from other people?? :headwally::headwally:

Yep, replace your tank, i have heard they crack sometimes!

To the op, If its clogging it is normally an issue with either flow or quantity. It sounds like you are running a LOT of GFO...
 
I have a large sump. And a large pre filter before the sump. In other words lots of space. Using in a bag isn't the best but is it really not doable ?
 
You can only fill the reactor about 2/3 max when dry (I only fill it half full dry), the rest of the space will be taken up when the flow starts slowly moving the entire mass. You just have too much GFO in the reactor. I have also figured out you only need about 1/2 half what the calculator on BRS says you need anyway unless you dumping phosphate into your tank. I have mine teed of the main system and the valve that comes with the GFO reactor is never more than half open.
 
i have used gfo in the past.. i have a lot of space in the mechanical room... is this somehting you guys now use on sps dominated tank.. i also feedd a lot...

so.. what is the verdict on gfo or pellet?

thanks
 
My experience with the BRS reactor is that the circular plastic grates at the bottom and top of the upflow chamber are set so close to each other that they would become clogged or at least highly restricted after 2-3 days, slowing flow to an unacceptable value. Opening the ball valve worked for another day or two then flow would drop again.
I removed about 3/4th of those grates and let the sponges take over for them, which they do well without clogging. The reactor now works well and the
gfo never stops tumbling using a mj600.
 
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i have used gfo in the past.. i have a lot of space in the mechanical room... is this somehting you guys now use on sps dominated tank.. i also feedd a lot...

so.. what is the verdict on gfo or pellet?

thanks

do you mean pelletized GFO or some other kind of pellet?
 
Exactly.

Plus, How often should I change it?

are you running the proper amount? If you have very PO4 it should be changed weekly or by weekly. Get a good quality tester and test the PO4 change GFO and test it again see if it drops. In my experience the HC GFO worked better for me and you only use half as much. Are you doing any carbon dosing? like vinegar, nopox, vodka? They can clog the reactor. I changed mine every two weeks which is what BRS suggests. GFO can be used up quick
 
Sorry for the confusion. My mistake. I am looking to compare gfo to bio pellets as comparison to which works better overall for better phosphate controll
 
GFO works better for PO4, Biopellets are more for NO3 and remove a small part of PO4 by skimming. If you are trying to reduce PO4 HC GFO is the way to go. You also need to figure out the source of the PO4.
 
Mine works fine for a couple days then it gets clogged. Ive just gotten into the habbit of cleaning the cartradges pretty frequently until I can invest in a better reactor.
 
Sounds like u need a larger reactor. I would recommend 2-3 cups max in the brs chamber anymore I think increases the chances for the media to stop tumbling. Also I would like to add if it isn't tumbling that doesn't mean it isn't working, it's just more effective if it tumbles. I once left town and didn't really have the chance to set up my reactor buti knew where i typically have it set, so I set it and forgot it. When I retuned home a week later I saw the gfo stopped tumbling so I tested. I found out my p04 still dropped, I actually think it worked better.
 
Mine works fine for a couple days then it gets clogged. Ive just gotten into the habbit of cleaning the cartradges pretty frequently until I can invest in a better reactor.

If it runs for a couples days and clogs, you probably have several issues: too much GFO for the container, not enough pressure/flow in the reactor, and your water isn't being prefiltered enough before it goes through the reactor. By prefilter I don't mean put a sponge in the mix, but 100 micron socks would be a good idea in the sump.

I used to run the BRS reactors filled the brim (no tumbling) and it would still work for 30 days based on testing. I switched to tumbling because it last 90 days or more that way. Aside from that, the amount of time it last (still keeping po4 zero ppm) is dependent on the individual tank and cannot be a preset time period without serious waste and expense in using the product.
 
If it runs for a couples days and clogs, you probably have several issues: too much GFO for the container, not enough pressure/flow in the reactor, and your water isn't being prefiltered enough before it goes through the reactor. By prefilter I don't mean put a sponge in the mix, but 100 micron socks would be a good idea in the sump.

I used to run the BRS reactors filled the brim (no tumbling) and it would still work for 30 days based on testing. I switched to tumbling because it last 90 days or more that way. Aside from that, the amount of time it last (still keeping po4 zero ppm) is dependent on the individual tank and cannot be a preset time period without serious waste and expense in using the product.

I only run about a 1/4 cup. I don't have a sump so filter socks aren't really an option. I have a cobalt mj 1200 and get plenty of tumbling.
 
Bio Pellets or GFO???

Bio Pellets or GFO???

Does anyone have an opinion of whether GFO or Bio Pellets are better to use??
 
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