Dosing Nitrate to reduce Phosphate

Paul,
What Tom said is correct. GAC when left for too long in the system, will trap some bacteia.
Just life filter flos will trap and export bacteria. If you had read those articles that I linked, you would have gotten some scientific knowledge. The purpose of GAC is to trap DOC thru adsorption.
Patrick
 
Sorry - I should have given a base reference to what I have in my sump.
400 liters of water, protein skimmer, GAC and purigen in a reactor - Currently running 500ml All in One bio pellets with the usual reading of undetectable nitrate reading from Red Sea test kit.
My phosphate hovers around 0.1 to 0.2 ppm all the time without dosing Lanthanum chloride. Only when doing Lanthanum chloride, I could bring it down to less than 0.1ppm. Which is done during the weekend.

My theory is I am Nitrogen limited from the bio pellets taking it all. Hence this experiment of introducing Nitrate to feed the bacteria back up.
I have plenty of carbon source from bio pellets and left over phosphate that just don't go down to 0.03ppm which I have no way to test out as test kit stops at 0.1ppm resolution reading, then it becomes undetectable.

Ah.. Ok that makes more sense.. You have the exact conditions as I do..

This thread is getting funny (although still very interesting) it's like the mortals are having one conversation and the Demi-Gods are having another.. :)

Interesting what Glenn said about test kits.. I find the red sea po4 test to be difficult to read.. I've had the best experience with the Elos high resolution po4 test kit. Very accurate and easy to read..
As for n, I find the salifert a bit awkward to compare colour compared to the more straight forward Red Sea kit..
Anyways, keep us posted on your ongoing n additions and what happens..
 
Ah.. Ok that makes more sense.. You have the exact conditions as I do..

This thread is getting funny (although still very interesting) it's like the mortals are having one conversation and the Demi-Gods are having another.. :)

Interesting what Glenn said about test kits.. I find the red sea po4 test to be difficult to read.. I've had the best experience with the Elos high resolution po4 test kit. Very accurate and easy to read..
As for n, I find the salifert a bit awkward to compare colour compared to the more straight forward Red Sea kit..
Anyways, keep us posted on your ongoing n additions and what happens..

I agree with you about the salifert test for nitrates. Thanks for the tip.. I'll try Red Sea kit
That said I find the salifert phosphate kit very easy to interpret
 
Sorry - I should have given a base reference to what I have in my sump.
400 liters of water, protein skimmer, GAC and purigen in a reactor - Currently running 500ml All in One bio pellets with the usual reading of undetectable nitrate reading from Red Sea test kit.
My phosphate hovers around 0.1 to 0.2 ppm all the time without dosing Lanthanum chloride. Only when doing Lanthanum chloride, I could bring it down to less than 0.1ppm. Which is done during the weekend.

My theory is I am Nitrogen limited from the bio pellets taking it all. Hence this experiment of introducing Nitrate to feed the bacteria back up.
I have plenty of carbon source from bio pellets and left over phosphate that just don't go down to 0.03ppm which I have no way to test out as test kit stops at 0.1ppm resolution reading, then it becomes undetectable.

I would just feed more. The corals will love you for it.
 
I would just feed more. The corals will love you for it.

The problem with feeding more - which I do feed my corals every night with reef-roids from polyplab.
The Nitrate would always be undetectable and the phosphate would continue to rise from 0.1 to 0.3ppm over just 1 week.
My weekend routine to bring my phosphate down was to dose 2 x 5ml of Lanthanum chloride on Saturday and Sunday to bring it back down to less than 0.1ppm.

I am trying to automate and not require to do this every weekend. Hence the experiment with dosing potassium nitrate and test out the theory of redfield ratio - If it holds some truth in it. :uhoh3:
If it is all too difficult, I am going back to GFO in the reactor, which is costly compare to what I am using now.
 
The problem with feeding more - which I do feed my corals every night with reef-roids from polyplab.
The Nitrate would always be undetectable and the phosphate would continue to rise from 0.1 to 0.3ppm over just 1 week.
My weekend routine to bring my phosphate down was to dose 2 x 5ml of Lanthanum chloride on Saturday and Sunday to bring it back down to less than 0.1ppm.

I am trying to automate and not require to do this every weekend. Hence the experiment with dosing potassium nitrate and test out the theory of redfield ratio - If it holds some truth in it. :uhoh3:
If it is all too difficult, I am going back to GFO in the reactor, which is costly compare to what I am using now.

IMO .03 phosphates is not an issue. If it gets higher using a very small amt of Rowaphos can bring it down in a day. Then you take the reactor off line
 
Ah.. Ok that makes more sense.. You have the exact conditions as I do..

This thread is getting funny (although still very interesting) it's like the mortals are having one conversation and the Demi-Gods are having another.. :)

Interesting what Glenn said about test kits.. I find the red sea po4 test to be difficult to read.. I've had the best experience with the Elos high resolution po4 test kit. Very accurate and easy to read..
As for n, I find the salifert a bit awkward to compare colour compared to the more straight forward Red Sea kit..
Anyways, keep us posted on your ongoing n additions and what happens..

Elos po4 and hanna po4 checker are also fine. The results are very close compared to the lab tests done by a few user here in holland. I also checked it with reference material myself

The redsea no3 test seems better readable because they have a low range with max 3ppm.
But a few user found our that a 2ppm reading compared to 10+ ppm with salifert.
One guy was measuring 2ppm no3 with the RS test and did not have any growth with his acropras. After switching to salifert and measuring 2ppm no3 his growth finally took off.

On 2 occasions i did the test myself with different sets and the outcome was the same before mentioned difference between RS and salifert.
I can very easy compose my own reference liquid to verify the test so i did.
The salifert test was also checked with the reference liquid and was spot on.
This problem wit RS could have been a problem with a batch.

I don't favour any brand, i just pick the one that perform best.
In my oppinion the test that
Perform best are:
Po4 = Redsea, elos, hanna
No3 = salifert.
 
The problem with feeding more - which I do feed my corals every night with reef-roids from polyplab.
The Nitrate would always be undetectable and the phosphate would continue to rise from 0.1 to 0.3ppm over just 1 week.
My weekend routine to bring my phosphate down was to dose 2 x 5ml of Lanthanum chloride on Saturday and Sunday to bring it back down to less than 0.1ppm.

I am trying to automate and not require to do this every weekend. Hence the experiment with dosing potassium nitrate and test out the theory of redfield ratio - If it holds some truth in it. :uhoh3:
If it is all too difficult, I am going back to GFO in the reactor, which is costly compare to what I am using now.

Yes, to potassium nitrate. If you look at the chemical constituents in Red Ogo, you will see that potassium is the main ingrediant with a heavy dose of sulphur.
Do you have a macro algae or ATS export regime?
Patrick
 
Yes, to potassium nitrate. If you look at the chemical constituents in Red Ogo, you will see that potassium is the main ingrediant with a heavy dose of sulphur.
Do you have a macro algae or ATS export regime?
Patrick

Potassium nitrate may not be the best source of nitrogen for dosing. Elevated levels of potassium above NSW are reported to cause stress to corals and in some cases can wipe out a tank. I feel sodium nitrate is a much safer choice.
 
I've used calcium nitrate quite effectively, as well. You're generally using so little, just to bump up the n to detectable levels, that calcium doesn't go up too dramatically.
 
Potassium nitrate may not be the best source of nitrogen for dosing. Elevated levels of potassium above NSW are reported to cause stress to corals and in some cases can wipe out a tank. I feel sodium nitrate is a much safer choice.

I am not worry about potassium elevated too high.
On dosing 5ml of my stock solution it only up it by:
Element ppm/degree
K 1.21
N 0.43
NO3 1.92

Which is small - Which is what I want anyway.
I would dose that twice or three times a week.. Which is nothing. I will bet my protein skimmer and sps corals take out more than I put in.
 
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In two of my tanks, due to undetectable phosphate and stunted macro growth, I dosed with dipotassium phosphate two days ago. It is my belief that because of macro growth with no water change to balance nutrients, I have depleted potassium. When N is required I dose with ammonia.
Patrick

The dry chemical analysis of Red Ogo is:
N, 2.59%
P, 0.082%
K, 13.54%
Ca, 0.555%
Mg, 1.163%
S, 4.81%
Zn, 139ppm
Fe, 107ppm
Mn, 20ppm
Cu, 7ppm
 
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I am not worry about potassium elevated too high.
On dosing 5ml of my stock solution it only up it by:
Element ppm/degree
K 1.21
N 0.43
NO3 1.92

Which is small - Which is what I want anyway.
I would dose that twice or three times a week.. Which is nothing. I will bet my protein skimmer and sps corals take out more than I put in.


When using KNO3
The ratio dosed no3/K compared to present no3/K is very low and most of the time the K can be discarded due to K comsumption. Only in a system with heavy No3 dosing and near to zero K consumption, K could rise very slowly.

When using CaNO3
The ratios are roughly in the same order, but Ca is being used very fast in most systems. So Ca will never become a problem when dosing CaNO3 to elevate no3 levels.

Bottomline is; in most case KNO3 will do just fine for that purpose

It seems that needle wheel skimmer skim out K.

I modified my skimmer with "classic" wooden airstones and my K consumption seems minimal.
 
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It seems that needle wheel skimmer skim out K.

I modified my skimmer with "classic" wooden airstones and my K consumption seems minimal.

FWIW, potassium cannot be skimmed from seawater directly, but it can be removed inside of bacteria and other organisms. Perhaps different skimmer types remove organisms to different extents. :)
 
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<table border="0" width="100%" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"> <tbody><tr> <td class="alt2" style="border:1px inset"> Originally Posted by tmz
I disagree with the last sentence. Depending on the ration of N to P in the bacteria removed, it is very relevant to the discussion of the thread.

Skimmers remove organics including bacteria. Individual orgniac compounds and organisms have variable N:P ratios. En masse ,why would the content of skimmate have a different ratio of N and P than the tank? Seems it wouldn't; I don't think GAC would efffect the ratio either, overall. Not exporting organics likely wouldn't effect the ratio either;just the overall volume.

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If the individual organisms and organics have different ratios then the tank and are concentrated in the skimmate then it is it not conceivable that the skimmate could have a different ratio to the tank?

Scott, I'm late in answering ; been distracted with family health issues.


Anything is possible but there isn't any plausible reason I can imagine to think the C:N:P ratio of the tank will be altered by skimming given the amphipathic nature of almost all organic molecules in a reef tank. Amphipathic moleucles are attrracted to the air water interface.


Organisms have protein which is attracted to the air water interface ,that is why a skimmer is called a protein skimmer,btw. .

Overall ratios in skimmate are very likely to be similar in C,N,P composition as the source tank water ,IMO.
A little organic chemistry regarding solubility shows why I think so.

Molecules in water range from hydrophyllic to hydrophobic:

Those that love water,(hydrophylic) and are bound to it (solubles like salt,sugar, ethyl alchohol, glycol ammonia ammino acids ,many inorganic compounds ). These are not attracted to the air water interface at the surface of the water in a tank or the the air water interface in a bubble of air in a skimmer's water column.

Hydrophobic molecules,those that are repelled by water( fats, oils, gasoline ,etc) are squeezed out of solution by the attraction water molecules have for one another and go to the air water interface forming surface films.

Like most distinctions the differences between hyrophobic molecules an hydrophylic molecules fall on a continuum .
In the middle are amphipatic molecules which have both hyrdorphylic and hydrophobic components ;proteins and most organic molecules in a reef tank fall into the amphipathic category.

The amphipatic molecules are attracted the air water interface.

" ...In actual practice, most organic molecules found in a marine tank will be amphipathic, with the bulk of the remainder being hydrophilic. There will be relatively few purely hydrophobic molecules (e.g., fat) in the tank. Most very hydrophilic molecules will not be removed by a skimmer, so understanding how amphipathic molecules react in a skimmer is the key to understanding how a skimmer works. One reason that skimmers are often referred to as protein skimmers is that most proteins are amphipathic. They often have an interior made from hydrophobic amino acids, and an exterior made of hydrophilic ones. When dissolved in water, only the hydrophilic exterior portions contact the water molecules. When placed in contact with an air interface (or something that is hydrophobic) the proteins will alter their shape, and present the hydrophobic portion to the interface. In this fashion they are readily attracted to an air/water interface..."

The above is per an article by Randy H. Farely

http://web.archive.org/web/20010309054900/http://home.mweb.co.za/jv/jv79/reef/skimmers2.html

So why would a skimmer select amphipathic molecules with C:N:P ratios diiffernt on average as has been asserted than those in the tank .? I can't think of reason.
 
FWIW, potassium cannot be skimmed from seawater directly, but it can be removed inside of bacteria and other organisms. Perhaps different skimmer types remove organisms to different extents. :)

Thanks for the correction randy.

I am aware the element K itself can't be skimmed of directly...

I meaned that to say that K seems to get removed more often with systeem using needle wheel skimmers. The explanation you mentioned might as well be the reason. Some skimmer are more efficient in removing K bounded to bacterie/organisms.
 
Thanks for the correction randy.

I am aware the element K itself can't be skimmed of directly...

I meaned that to say that K seems to get removed more often with systeem using needle wheel skimmers. The explanation you mentioned might as well be the reason. Some skimmer are more efficient in removing K bounded to bacterie/organisms.

My protein skimmer is the new DC motor needle wheel skimmer. I am not too concern of the K rising at all. I should get a test kit for Potassium, but knowing my coral does respond great with a dose of K once a week - 1 teaspoon worth of Potassium chloride and strontium.

Continuing my experiment......
Day 1 ) Reading of 5ppm Nitrate, Phosphate 0.2ppm - No visual sign of diatoms and algae on rocks looking pale for reference.
Day 2 ) Initial reading 2.5ppm Nitrate - re-dosing 10ml to bring it up to + 5ppm Nitrate, Phosphate 0.1ppm - Diatoms starting to appear all over my sand substrate and algae on rocks looks like greening up.
Day 3 ) Nitrate reading 2.5ppm - Diatoms took off and is all over my sand substrate. Phosphate about the same 0.1 ppm and algae on rock s turn dark brown. I think I have brown hair algae. Will take a photo for CP to id.
Day 4 ) Nitrate reading undetectable - Diatoms disappear on sand substrate. Phosphate about less than >0.1ppm - RedSea test kit sux.. can't read lower. I will order a Hanna Checker + regent.
Re dose again 5ml KNO3 this time.
Day 5 ) Nitrate reading 2.5ppm - Diatoms is back again. Phosphate is less than >0.1ppm almost yellow reading with test kit. Brown Algae continue to be healthy brown, but not really growing to my eyes.
Day 6 ) Waiting.... Looks like I will re-dose 2.5ml KNO3, when the diatoms disappear visually not on sand. To see what dosage is needed to not see it on sand bed, but still have detectable Nitrate. I can say the coral are still open and doing well. Colouration stays the same, I want more colours.:crazy1:
 
I never need to dose K, it's always around 400ppm(per Salifert and Red SEa tests), even with organic carbon dosing , heavy skimming(2 asm 4xx needle wheel skimmer ,each moving 1500gph of water through per hour for the 650 gallon system) and heavy coral growth . It may be an issue in some tanks but I wouldn't dose it without testing it to avoid an overdose.
I reckon I get enough from food and small frequent water changes. I don't think the amount added in a nitrate dosing regimen would add very much but it might be worth monitoring overall. . Sodium nitrate eliminates that minimal concern of addition with KNO3 given the large pool of sodium in tank water.
 
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