Drain question for the plumbing savvy peeps

[Gary Majchrzak]

I have that set up on a 150 Gallon tank and I don't like it. No matter what I do, I cannot get a good surface skim and it is loud regardless of what I have tried. I just ordered two overflow boxes from John at Advanced Acrylics and will be installing them. The boxes are 12" wide X 8" high and 5" deep. Inside the overflow box I will have the 90 turned upside down. I will still have the T fit to the back with a small hole in the cap. This way I can reduce the sound to near nothing and will get the proper surface skim.

sounds like you didn't use a reducer at the top of the elbows to increase surface skimming. Designed correctly, the 90 degree elbow drains are silent, efficient and take up the least amount of in-tank space of any overflow design I've ever seen with the exception of an outside weir.

 

[dreaminmel]

Hows the leak looking. I have a few spots where the silicone one my new 210 had a few air bubbles that looked similar to that but not issues. I am not positive but I believe the silicone between the panes of glass is the actual water tight bond where the calk is actually more to hold it together

The water level did not drop at all overnight. I'm gonna go ahead and go for it with getting this thing set up and running. The lighting hood will hopefully be built today.

many LFS's use the upward facing elbow drain and I've never seen a T on them............

Excellent point! :thumbsup:

 

[Hdhuntr01]

sounds like you didn't use a reducer at the top of the elbows to increase surface skimming. Designed correctly, the 90 degree elbow drains are silent, efficient and take up the least amount of in-tank space of any overflow design I've ever seen with the exception of an outside weir.

Please explain the reducer. Or if at all possible show a picture of a 90 set up like this. I have 2 each 1.5" 90 elbows pointed upwards. Would really like to know a solution to the loud noise I get. Just not sure how you mean to use a reducer...

 

[dreaminmel]

Almost 2/3rds of the way down this page Gary has a picture and explanation. Hope it helps you picture what we're referring to.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=819275&page=6

 

[jfl14609]

Cat wait to seethe build pics. Glad to see its not leaking. couldnt you just put a little silicone over the spot if your worried about it leaking?

 

[dreaminmel]

Build pics will come. Scott and I built the canopy for it yesterday. I just needs paint and some hardware and it's done. :thumbsup: Water sat in the tank for 24hrs without any drop in level so I'm not going to worry about it.

Just some finishing details to work out and I may try to find a different sump as the current one doesn't leave me enough room to remove my skimmer cup when it's in the bottom of the stand. I was planning to just use it anyways and clean the skimmer cup while doing a water change w/ the sump empty where I could slide it out sideways to access everything on a regular basis but if the skimmer cup starts overflowing or something goes awry during a time where maintenance/water change is not planned I'd have to hurry up and empty the sump to gain access.

Going to start off the lighting with just a halide initially but intend on adding two T5 bulbs at some point for an actinic dawn/dusk option.

W/ the plumbing, I'm going to use the capped T option so that if any noise issues do come up down the road I'll have the option of drilling a hole in the cap to attempt quieting it down. Most likely won't have that issue come up but it's best to be prepared just in case.

 

[jfl14609]

Ok so where are the updates

 

[dreaminmel]

On today's agenda: grabbing glue for plumbing, paint to finish hood, got a smaller sump that will work perfect, giving a rinse to some new sand and getting water in the tank. I'm hoping to pick up a T5 retro kit from someone this weekend. If all goes as planned I should have everything transferred over in the next couple of days. Got some things going on though that may interrupt plans so worst case scenario should have it done by end of next week.

 

[wetbehindears]

Smaller but way better sump ;-)

 

[dreaminmel]

Thanks again for the sump and everything Brandon. One small minor mod to my skimmer and it fits perfect. Heading outside w/ the hose and some buckets now to rinse the sand. Will keep in touch w/ the tank and everything as stuff happens.

Already have a pic of the raw canopy construction but am going to accumulate a couple more pics of the process and start a new thread for the 40g once there's more to show.

 

[wetbehindears]

Goin to be a sweet 40g ive always liked ur displays!

 

[jfl14609]

Smaller but way better sump ;-)

Hey there that sump I gave her worked for about 7 years in my tank and many before its a legacy haha

 

[wetbehindears]

Just mean cause the sump i hooked her up w is acrylic w sock holder

 

[jfl14609]

Niceee I think we need some pics of whats happening sooner than later haha

 

[dreaminmel]

In every project there's the potential for a snag or two... :lol: Picked up the 36" T5 retro kit from a fellow reefer today knowing that 36" bulbs are actually shorter than that. The internal space of the canopy is about .5" too narrow to allow the installation due to the way the T5 standoffs stick out a little on the ends vs. the VHO standoffs I was used to. Now I've got to grab the next size T5 down to make it work, 30" (27.75"). I don't see any reason why the ballast can't handle going from two 39w bulbs down to two 31w bulbs. In the meantime I'll get everything else all set and still do the transfer. It'll be easy enough to take the canopy back off and put the two actinic T5's in later.

 

[jfl14609]

Any way to angle them a little to get them to fit in?

 

[dreaminmel]

I'm sure I could... but I'd rather just jump a size down and make them fit right. G will have the bulbs in for me on Thursday which is excellent.

In the meantime I'll still have the 175w halide setup to run so the transfer can still be done without waiting until next weekend.

 

[jfl14609]

Thats cool have you done any design work as far as stack yet?

 

[dreaminmel]

No actual rock stacking yet. Definately have been picturing the possibilities in my mind though.

 

[acdraindrps]

The configuration that Gary and Mel are using is a bit different than the traditional overflow type of drain.

In an overflow, the elbows are (usually) facing downwards. The interplay between air and water can cause gurgling or flushing noises, depending on how things are configured. The other end of the drain line is another factor that can impact noise. If the drain line is submerged beneath the surface of the sump water, that can contribute to surges and "flushing" type of noises.

I had the most success (silence) using an overflow box when I had one of the drains set up as a siphon (maximum flow and NO air entering the drain line), with the other set a bit higher in the overflow box to act as a failsafe. This is similar to the "BeanAnimall Silent but Safe" overflow system.

IMO, Tees and vents aren't necessary nor will have any effect on these upward facing elbow drains, since they work differently than drains in an overflow box.

Couldn't have explained it better myself. Nice.

The only way to make a completely silent overflow is to have two drains. One working as a siphon, the other as backup (with a standpipe) in case the siphon gets clogged. To achieve a siphon, one can cap the end of a drain pipe and drill a small hole in the cap. Run the return pump, and keep making the hole in the cap slightly larger until the water level in the overflow box is just right. You want the water level to completely submerge the capped drain hole so no air drains, but not high enough so the backup drain standpipe gets any water.

I hope this makes sense.