drill or not to drill?

[MSHUR]

Fellas,
i am getting a new tank and confused with dillema either drill bottom for CL or not. my plan to get peninsula style rimless 72x36x25 with ext overflow box. right now i have peninsula style only 60" long and after corals grew i really suffer with water flow so i end up with 2 vortechs on oposite side of the overflow box. For safety reasons i am not sure if i wanna drill holes on the bottom for CL. i alway think what happend in 2-3 yers when i have established tank and one of the bulk heads leak on the bottom...this lead to a disaster. On the same time i know many people have drilled bottom for Cl and have no problems.
please, let me know what you guys think!

mike

 

[MSHUR]

No One?

 

[Turbovr3six]

I say go for it.

A tank that large would need more flow than 2X mp40's IMO, and a closed loop is a nice way to hide it. I know me personally would like to keep the clean look of the rimless by having less powerheads.

 

[MSHUR]

Justin,

i agree 2 mp40 would cut it.. i was thionking to go with 2 MP60 and later on add more as need it. But i agree as far as look but more concern about safty as well..

mike

 

[Turbovr3six]

Mike,

I hear ya with being concerned about the safety of it. I would think as long as the glass is thick enough on the bottom, it wouldn't be an issue. I had a 48L x 36W x 25H that was drilled for CL and overflow on the bottom(6holes total), but I had top and bottom Eurobracing and a 3/4" bottom. Between the footprint of your new tank and the fact that it is rimless, your bottom pane will need to be at least 1" if not thicker.

 

[MSHUR]

Justin,

i understand what you mean. My maine concern is bulkheads that might leak down the road. I am sure bottom would be pretty think, right now i have Elos and its super thick , around 2.5".. Super heavy too..


mike

 

[CreativeGuy]

Hi Mike,

You are not alone in that dilemma. I was back and forth for over a year in my design of my main display tank. Definitely cleaner and initially easier to drill, yet IF there is a problem it is a nightmare and potentially requires a complete tear down to address any bottom leaks. I spoke with many large experienced REEF tank owners and most agreed/recommended not to drill. The larger the tank, the decisions lead not to drill. After speaking with many people of top (in my opinion) experienced people at MACNA a few weekends back, I ended up scraping my tank design of the last 4 months and substantially redesigning it with no holes in the tank (only in the exterior overflow box), therefore limiting the greatest potential loss to the water level to within 2" (baring catastrophic seam or breakage failure). There are a few tricks to the over top plumbing to prevent siphoning issues. You can read a more involved post in my thread here on RC Large tanks (Creature Morpheus) about my on-going dilemma and when I recently made major changes after post numbers #73 on-wards.

Other factors come into play whether you have the option to go over the top due to availability of space and plumbing, as well as aesthetics. You have to decide what works best for you. In smaller tanks, tear downs may not be as difficult (no fun) and manageable for the risk. Any pipes over the top can be modified. removed, and adaptable in the future as well as removed for cleaning on long term tanks or build ups.

Placing valves on the underside like true unions only work for the shot-off side. You also may only want to put in diaphragm valves (recommended) vs ball valves because as it was point out to me e several people with experiences, the salt water or build-up on the ball of the valve from minimal use, when eventually turned can scratch and not seal properly afterwards.

Within a rectangular tank, two opposing vortechs work well (placing two in my 330g), but as soon as you rock scape, the dynamics substantially change. Therefore I also have designed in an additional closed loop and a pair of sea-swirls at the top.

Not sure if that helps any. Just my two cents and why it made sense to me not to drill.

Good Luck with it.
Joe

 

[MSHUR]

Joe,

thank you for your input. I am leanning towards NOT to drill . of cause i will end up with PH but atleast this will give me a peace of mind . I am looking forward to check out on your thread..
I am going thrue the top since i like open , rimless tank with hanging pendant ..thats what i have now

going to look up your thread now


mike

 

[CreativeGuy]

I like the look of rimless and attractive hanging pendants.
Looks good. There were a few at MACNA that were gorgeous and lots of hanging lamps too. WHat makes this hobby unique is that no two tanks are a like.

There are several reasons I could not go rimless. Number one being the size and height of the display tank being 39.4" (1m) in height with 3/4" PPG Starphire Glass, it had to be structurally reinforced at the top and bottom (more than just silicone and Euro bracing). It has a SS structural band around the top. Other considerations were that it had 40 sq ft of exposed water surface area for moisture control as it is in a large open concept area (over 1,200 sq ft) with high cathedral ceilings (over 25' at the peaks). So it shall have a vented (by a dedicated HRV) enclosed stainless steel hood that encloses the light cage and also has a structural element that it sits on to allow me to get on top of it to service it.

 

[Hotpuppy]

I prefer to drill the sides. That said, it's relatively easy to do..... I do not care for external overflows.... it's a source of salt creep.

Out of curiosity, how much sand did you put in your tank?

 

[MSHUR]

I like the look of rimless and attractive hanging pendants.
Looks good. There were a few at MACNA that were gorgeous and lots of hanging lamps too. WHat makes this hobby unique is that no two tanks are a like.

There are several reasons I could not go rimless. Number one being the size and height of the display tank being 39.4" (1m) in height with 3/4" PPG Starphire Glass, it had to be structurally reinforced at the top and bottom (more than just silicone and Euro bracing). It has a SS structural band around the top. Other considerations were that it had 40 sq ft of exposed water surface area for moisture control as it is in a large open concept area (over 1,200 sq ft) with high cathedral ceilings (over 25' at the peaks). So it shall have a vented (by a dedicated HRV) enclosed stainless steel hood that encloses the light cage and also has a structural element that it sits on to allow me to get on top of it to service it.

Thank you,

you are building a different system, much bigger in you case you cant go rimless) but, i am sure youtank will be a killer once it done.
are you planning on custom size skimmer?

 

[MSHUR]

I prefer to drill the sides. That said, it's relatively easy to do..... I do not care for external overflows.... it's a source of salt creep.

Out of curiosity, how much sand did you put in your tank?

why you think its a source of salt creep?

right now i have 1-1.5 " of sand and planning to do the same in the future

 

[biecacka]

the other side of a large tank or peninsula tank is with out a CL you have less flow on the other end........
i think
corey

 

[Moser]

Steve Hurlock's tank runs 8 vortec's MP40 from one end. It is a peninsula tank around 10ftx5ftx3ft?. I don't think there were any flow issues at the far end.....

I run only one prop pump in my 1000gal SPS tank, without any flow issues....

Mo

 

[MSHUR]

Wow!! 8 pumps from one end----i need to check his tank)

 

[CreativeGuy]

Custom Skimmer

Custom Skimmer

are you planning on custom size skimmer?

My Bashsea 4-becket 12"d x 60"h skimmer was custom made to my specs in conjunction with a local manufacturer was completed over 6 months ago and will be getting it out next week to assemble it. It is air driven with Alita air pump. There are a few modifications in the works already for making a custom automatic head cleaner and improved draining system.

 

[MSHUR]

NIceeeee.. do you know how much scf this beast pulls?