drummereef's 180g in-wall build

Brett, did you ever end up getting that diatom bloom after your cycle? I think my tank is following a very similar course to yours, although I never detected much of anything (if anything) during my cycle. The chunk of shrimp went in a bit over 3 weeks ago, and I ended up adding 12 hermits a week ago. They are happy (except for being on the Moon), and are eating pellets. No sign of any algae - although it's soon yet - and I'm still trying to assess the role of the MB7 you recommended.
 
Great info guys.....

Ok, let me clarify my setting that I was thinking and maybe it will help.

First, my apology, when I said display I meant display tank.

In the basement maintenance room I have all the obvious things I have to control: chiller, heater, kalk reactor and calcium reactor. All that I would assume will be on one EB8; along with the base unit/display unit which will have the temp and pH probe installed....does that make sense?

Upstairs (actually main floor) I have my 180-gl. display tank which has (3) metal halides and (2) sets of VHO's and also (2) MP60's. So the lights and powerheads are the two main things to control on the DT. I am assuming I am going to need another EB8 and some type of module that will need a USB cable (50-60') run between that and the basement. And I can easily run and punch down a Cat5 cable of the same length or simply go wireless (wifi) too.

Does this make sense? Also, we are probably talking in excess of $700 for all the Apex equipment? Apex Base Unit, extra EB8, power module, USB cabling, etc.

As mentioned, it is definitely an investment and one I have to think pretty serious about.

MANY THANKS for all the help and look forward to any more help/clariication.

And Brett...let me apologize again if I hijack your thread.....just shoot me.:fun2:
 
Brett,

So what's the current status of params (cal, alk, PO4 & nitrate), corals appearances, NEW FISH idear's :dance:, feeding/supps, and carbon.

Just tested PO4 and NO3 and they are still reading 0.00 from my Hanna Checker and 0 API Nitrate test kit. Skimmate has dried up considerably since I removed the Carbon from the system. There's a little bit of a bio film in the return section of the sump I noticed today but I adjusted the skimmer again to try and get it to skim a little more wet to reduce that. Alk last night was 7.84 and Ca is holding around 450 last time I checked. Not much demand on either of those yet since the corals are still small.

For the apex, the easiest thing to do is just get a wireless adapter :)

It sets up like a breeze and is better than running cable anyday.

This is true. I didn't go this route since it was an added expense and you still need to connect directly to the base unit when doing firmware upgrades. But it is a very good solution for those who don't have the option to run Cat5.

Brett, did you ever end up getting that diatom bloom after your cycle? I think my tank is following a very similar course to yours, although I never detected much of anything (if anything) during my cycle. The chunk of shrimp went in a bit over 3 weeks ago, and I ended up adding 12 hermits a week ago. They are happy (except for being on the Moon), and are eating pellets. No sign of any algae - although it's soon yet - and I'm still trying to assess the role of the MB7 you recommended.

I didn't get much diatom during the cycle at all. I am getting a little now in the sand bed I'm currently dealing with. Nothing bad, just annoying. So you did end up seeing some ammonia then? I'm guessing you are seeing nitrate now? If you aren't seeing much algae then I think the MB7 is definitely helping. Don't underestimate it's importance at this point. You might want to diversify the bacteria by dosing some Special Blend or other bacterias at this point as well. ;)
 
I didn't get much diatom during the cycle at all. I am getting a little now in the sand bed I'm currently dealing with. Nothing bad, just annoying. So you did end up seeing some ammonia then? I'm guessing you are seeing nitrate now? If you aren't seeing much algae then I think the MB7 is definitely helping. Don't underestimate it's importance at this point. You might want to diversify the bacteria by dosing some Special Blend or other bacterias at this point as well. ;)

Never did...some will blame the dip strip tests I was using, and I don't blame them. But two weeks in, I did break out some 3 yr old Salifert kits I had in storage, and, although they may not be reliable anymore, either, they showed zero ammonia and zero nitrates. I was baffled. I asked on the chem forum, and it was suggested I probably had a light cycle and that the MB7 may have had something to do with it.
 
Great info guys.....

Ok, let me clarify my setting that I was thinking and maybe it will help.

First, my apology, when I said display I meant display tank.

In the basement maintenance room I have all the obvious things I have to control: chiller, heater, kalk reactor and calcium reactor. All that I would assume will be on one EB8; along with the base unit/display unit which will have the temp and pH probe installed....does that make sense?

Upstairs (actually main floor) I have my 180-gl. display tank which has (3) metal halides and (2) sets of VHO's and also (2) MP60's. So the lights and powerheads are the two main things to control on the DT. I am assuming I am going to need another EB8 and some type of module that will need a USB cable (50-60') run between that and the basement. And I can easily run and punch down a Cat5 cable of the same length or simply go wireless (wifi) too.

Does this make sense? Also, we are probably talking in excess of $700 for all the Apex equipment? Apex Base Unit, extra EB8, power module, USB cabling, etc.

As mentioned, it is definitely an investment and one I have to think pretty serious about.

MANY THANKS for all the help and look forward to any more help/clariication.

And Brett...let me apologize again if I hijack your thread.....just shoot me.:fun2:

Hijacks allowed! :D Questions like these help everyone. ;)

Yes, sounds like you are on the right track. I would put an EB8 downstairs for the sump equipment and another EB8 upstairs to control the pumps and lights. 60' of USB should be no problem for the Apex to communicate with the EB8 upstairs. I had easy access to run Cat5 so it wasn't a biggie for me, sounds like you have the same option there. It is a big investment but since I ran my old Aquacontroller Jr on my last tank I told myself I'd never run another tank without a controller. The Apex has so many upgraded programming features the older systems were lacking. If you can justify the expense I don't think you'll be disappointed. ;)
 
Never did...some will blame the dip strip tests I was using, and I don't blame them. But two weeks in, I did break out some 3 yr old Salifert kits I had in storage, and, although they may not be reliable anymore, either, they showed zero ammonia and zero nitrates. I was baffled. I asked on the chem forum, and it was suggested I probably had a light cycle and that the MB7 may have had something to do with it.

Wow! And there you have it... MB7 apparently does work. :D I would continue on the maintenance schedule and possibly add some other bacteria strains like mentioned before. I'm considering trying some Special Blend for that very reason.
 
Wow! And there you have it... MB7 apparently does work. :D I would continue on the maintenance schedule and possibly add some other bacteria strains like mentioned before. I'm considering trying some Special Blend for that very reason.

Yes, apparently it does something! I switched to the maintenance schedule on Friday. I opted to do the "1 cap/50g no more than once weekly" deal.

Special Blend - makes me crave a cup of coffee! I'll look into that, too. Thanks. :)
 
Special Blend - makes me crave a cup of coffee! I'll look into that, too. Thanks. :)[/QUOTE]

your cravings will go away when you open the bottle, I promise. That stuff will stink up an entire room. I have to dose it while my wife is gone with the window open or she'll throw a fit.:lolspin:
 
Skimmate has dried up considerably since I removed the Carbon from the system.

Help me understand why this would happen, I don't see the correlation.

TIA
 
Yes, apparently it does something! I switched to the maintenance schedule on Friday. I opted to do the "1 cap/50g no more than once weekly" deal.

Special Blend - makes me crave a cup of coffee! I'll look into that, too. Thanks. :)

Good deal. And no, I wouldn't recommend it first thing in the morning. Haha! :D

your cravings will go away when you open the bottle, I promise. That stuff will stink up an entire room. I have to dose it while my wife is gone with the window open or she'll throw a fit.:lolspin:

:lol: That's what I've heard, the stuff stinks!

Skimmate has dried up considerably since I removed the Carbon from the system.

Help me understand why this would happen, I don't see the correlation.

TIA

I have no idea why but there's definitely been a change in skimmate composition. Darker and drier. You'd think it would be the opposite. I didn't change anything with the skimmer at all until today, to try and get a more productive skimmate going. Definitely weird but it's pulling out some dark nasty gunk for sure. When I was running Carbon the skimmate was kind of inconsistent at times. I'm wondering if now that the bio load is dependent solely on the skimmer, it's just becoming more efficient. :confused:
 
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Your post explaining the apex above was very useful! I have always been curious how remote equipment works with controllers. I am filling my 180 as I type and am thinking about getting a controller down the road since I travel so often.

One question (and it may be in your thread already), but are you using your Apex to Topoff? I don't have a topoff yet, but as I look at buying a tunze controller, topoff, and timers... it almost makes sense to just buy the controller up front. The topoff is my main concern as I will only have approx 10-15 gallons in the return section of the sump. I have wasted enough money in my reefing career on duplicate equipment and would rather not make that mistake again.

I know you have heard it before, but it is worth saying it again - great thread! and tank!
 
Your post explaining the apex above was very useful! I have always been curious how remote equipment works with controllers. I am filling my 180 as I type and am thinking about getting a controller down the road since I travel so often.

One question (and it may be in your thread already), but are you using your Apex to Topoff? I don't have a topoff yet, but as I look at buying a tunze controller, topoff, and timers... it almost makes sense to just buy the controller up front. The topoff is my main concern as I will only have approx 10-15 gallons in the return section of the sump. I have wasted enough money in my reefing career on duplicate equipment and would rather not make that mistake again.

I know you have heard it before, but it is worth saying it again - great thread! and tank!

Thank you kawicivic, and congrats on the new tank! :) I don't use my Apex for top off. I use a Tunze Osmolator. I liked the idea of redundancy and thought using a separate device, dedicated for top off, would be best for my system. So far I'm really pleased with the Osmolator. That said, the Apex can control top off just fine. I believe to top off via the Apex you either have to purchase the Neptune "breakout box" or build your own. Then program as needed. Here's a couple links that describe both for you. :)

http://reeftech.webs.com/Apex New User Guide.pdf (Scroll to pg 84)

DIY Breakout Box
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1847474
 
OK guys, I think it's time to replace my bulbs. I was looking back and it's been about a year since I started running them. I'm wondering if the latest bit of algae issue isn't just from old bulbs. I'm considering trying 250 watt mogul Phoenix instead of the Radiums this time. They are 20 bucks cheaper and I've heard good things about them. Thoughts?? :)
 
Phoenix are a nice bulb & nice color. I can't say how them compare to Radiums, but for the $$ savings, I would bet it couldn't hurt to try now, especially since you have just a few coral frags.

I am running the phoenix 250w 14k's I belive, they say pec blue on them.....Which I believe is their 14k Hexarc bulb. I like the color, no yellow at all, and I do supplement with 2 t-5 actininics, of which really don't do much of anything.

Figure out your bulb combos now!
 
I would stick with the radiums. Your pushing closer to the 300w to the bulbs that we talked about earlier in the thread.

I like them better and you aren't running any actinics right now so any change from radiums will probably look considerably different to you.
 
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