Greenmaster
New member
what about Zebra Barred Dart Goby? I have heard good things about them.
drummereef's 180g in-wall build
- Thread starter drummereef
- Start date
Taqpol
New member
For schooling fish, this^
prop-frags
SPS Slave
Brett, here's a thread I posted a while back detailing how I dealt with that problem:
DIY R/O control
I need to post an update, since I made some improvements to the design.
drummereef
Team RC
Good solution Mike. I think I'm following this correctly but... is this system a more robust solution to a plastic float valve that one would put in their top off reservoir so the reservoir doesn't overfill? So the RODI unit switches off once the reservoir is full correct?
I guess I was trying to come up with a solution that would limit the fill time per day via a timer/controller and solenoid valve. Which would be a failsafe if the top off controller to the sump should fail in the ON position. Have you done this before?
Greenmaster
New member
With your aqua controller you can have it so it is only on for a certain amount of time... like 5 minutes an hour... by setting a 5/55 on off variable or any number of minutes on/off. It would allow it to function normally but wouldn't let it over fill.
Basically you set it to be permitted to run about 25% more then you need, it should then at worst add a 25% extra top off water... which shouldn't affect the salinity much.
Basically you set it to be permitted to run about 25% more then you need, it should then at worst add a 25% extra top off water... which shouldn't affect the salinity much.
drummereef
Team RC
Good ideas guys, thanks! 
prop-frags
SPS Slave
Yes to the first question. The way this works now is that there are dual float switches in my R/O storage tank. At the "low water" indicator, the solenoid opens and fills the vat to the "high water" state, which then signals the solenoid to close. The design principle is to minimize the number of times the R/O must start, opting for infrequent "fill-ups", rather than more frequent "top-offs". I'll take some more pictures today and post em up.
As for the second question about top-off failsafe to the sump: I'm using a second dual-float switch ATO controller for that. It is set up in the traditional manner: the first float switch (normally submerged) signals the top-off pump to activate/de-activate based on sump water level. The second float switch (normally dry - above water level) is the failsafe killswitch to the top-off pump. Clear as mud, right?
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drummereef
Team RC
drummereef
Team RC
UPDATE:
Did some programming with the Apex the last couple days. I'm now using a program that alternates each Vortech with the Reef Crest and Lagoon Modes every 30 minutes. While one Vortech is in Reef Crest, the other is in Lagoon and vice versa for the 30 minute cycle.
It took some advanced programming to make it work but this is the beauty of the WXM module. I have 2 WXM outlets set up in the Apex to control the Vortechs via the WXM module. I also have the 2 physical outlets where the Vortechs plug into the Energy Bar. To complete the programming I had to create 2 "virtual outlets" where I programmed an oscillating cycle 00:00/30:00/60:00 (OFF/ON/OFF) so each pump switches through the Reef Crest and Lagoon cycles.
By using 2 profiles, one for Reef Crest and one for Lagoon I was able to link the oscillation with the correct profile. This again allowed me to have each pump in a different mode but alternate back and forth in a 30 minute cycle. Pretty cool.
I felt there wasn't enough flow with both pumps in Reef Crest. And not enough variation with both in Lagoon mode. The low "valleys" in the Reef Crest mode felt like they were off in my 6' tank. Now I still get a surge but still have a more constant flow from the opposite end of the tank at all times.
Did some programming with the Apex the last couple days. I'm now using a program that alternates each Vortech with the Reef Crest and Lagoon Modes every 30 minutes. While one Vortech is in Reef Crest, the other is in Lagoon and vice versa for the 30 minute cycle.
It took some advanced programming to make it work but this is the beauty of the WXM module. I have 2 WXM outlets set up in the Apex to control the Vortechs via the WXM module. I also have the 2 physical outlets where the Vortechs plug into the Energy Bar. To complete the programming I had to create 2 "virtual outlets" where I programmed an oscillating cycle 00:00/30:00/60:00 (OFF/ON/OFF) so each pump switches through the Reef Crest and Lagoon cycles.
By using 2 profiles, one for Reef Crest and one for Lagoon I was able to link the oscillation with the correct profile. This again allowed me to have each pump in a different mode but alternate back and forth in a 30 minute cycle. Pretty cool.
I felt there wasn't enough flow with both pumps in Reef Crest. And not enough variation with both in Lagoon mode. The low "valleys" in the Reef Crest mode felt like they were off in my 6' tank. Now I still get a surge but still have a more constant flow from the opposite end of the tank at all times.
Brett....in the final stages of pulling the plug and buying the Apex. Do you feel it is a good overall investment now that you have owned it for a while? And, is it very hard to wrap your brain around programming and using?
Giving the fact that my maintenance room is in the basement, I would control my: chiller, heater, Calcium Reactor, monitor pH & Temp and ATO all from downstairs. And then run a Cat5 cable to the display upstairs to run my lights and (2) MP60's. To be honest I am a bit concerned about the learning curve and do not want to be fighting with it for weeks, etc. Not to mention the $700+ expense to get the Apex and all the necessary accessories.
Many thanks for any help......Tony
Giving the fact that my maintenance room is in the basement, I would control my: chiller, heater, Calcium Reactor, monitor pH & Temp and ATO all from downstairs. And then run a Cat5 cable to the display upstairs to run my lights and (2) MP60's. To be honest I am a bit concerned about the learning curve and do not want to be fighting with it for weeks, etc. Not to mention the $700+ expense to get the Apex and all the necessary accessories.
Many thanks for any help......Tony
110galreef
New member
I'll toss my 2 cents in here. I went bonkers for like 2 days with my apex. Then like a light switch it hit me and was realatively easy to program.
Start with the basics:
Name each out let that you plug stuff into:
MH 1, MH2, acctinics, heater 1, heater 2, calcium reactor, return pump, Vortech, ATO, skimmer,etc.....
They make it pretty easy now as you tell each outlet what is on it & it will do some default code for you. If you call it a light, then it gives you basic on off stuff, etc.....
Then start with simple code for the lights like, if 11:00 then on, if 20:00 then off,
Heater outlet
or if temp > than 80 off, if temp < 78 on.
Then when you get the basic 'Necesaties" work on the advanced stuff. Like email/txt notifications, pH to control you calcium reactor, or setup the float switches to set failsafes for your pumps.....
also the link with the generic user guide is a great help!! Not sure of the link, but i believe it is a stickey in the Neptune section
Thx 110.....don't want to hijack Brett's thread, but great info. My dilemma is I have a remote location with all my equipment in my basement. Obviously my light and MP60's are at the display. So I have to purchase extra gear for the display and run the main unit in the basement. Not to mention, I have to run some cabling to and from the two locations. So it is a bit overwhelming and deciding if it is worth all the work and pretty good dollars too.
TIA.........
TIA.........
110galreef
New member
When you say display....The apex display? That really is just for viewing and flipping into feed mode. If you run a cat5e cable to the main base module, you can control & program everything from a computer anywhere. If you have a laptop, you can then do that anywhere in the house via wifi!
Also you can view the status from your computer in your house or anywhere too.
Also you can view the status from your computer in your house or anywhere too.
Fishdisease
New member
Hey Tony,
Just an FYI, I bought my APEX here and it cost much less. I'm picking it up this weekend from a friends place (since I live in Canada its much cheaper to ship things my friends place in Maine and pick them up when I visit). I got everything I needed for less then the basic package at most stores.
drummereef
Team RC
Do it!
It's really a great tool to be able to fully utilize the power of the Vortechs. Hey Tony, yes absolutely it's a great tool for any size or complexity of reef tank. It will ultimately simplify the programming of your setup into one easy to use package vs a bunch of independent timers etc... Programming is relatively easy especially if you are doing simple stuff. The "unofficial new user guide" is a great tool for beginner programmers as well (link below). There's plenty of basic programming as well as advanced programming examples that are literally copy and paste from the guide, so getting started is a breeze. Also, there's a couple guys in the Neptune Systems Forum that are always around to answer your questions. Great bunch of guys.
http://reeftech.webs.com/
I understand your concern about the setup of the unit definitely. If you set up the Apex downstairs in your maintenance room, controlling those pieces of equipment would be easy. The Cat5 cable, like 110g stated, is connected to the base unit not the display. The display is also connected to the base unit, so most likely would have to be located in the basement as well. If you ran Cat5 to your router upstairs then you'd have access to the system on your home network, just like mine is wired. This will allow you to program and control everything from your computer upstairs. And, it's much easier to program via the web based interface vs the display unit anyway.
I believe the max length of the USB (AquaBus) connectors, which connect the power bars to the base unit, have to be no longer than 200'. So when you ran your Cat5 you would also need to run a long USB to another EB8 for your lights and MP60s upstairs. Read through the "user guide" and see how the unit connects to the peripherals. I think it would make more sense and wouldn't seem as complicated.
110galreef
New member
110galreef
New member
Brett,
So what's the current status of params (cal, alk, PO4 & nitrate), corals appearances, NEW FISH idear's :dance:, feeding/supps, and carbon.
Muchas gracias Senor
Also I believe my PO4 is creeping up from my DI as it is nearing exhasution? TDS still come out 0, but I tested my batch of SW 2 weeks back & PO4 was 6(.0018), and this last mix was 13 (.0399). Time for new DI
Wonder if you or anyone else notices an increase in PO4 when DI is about out or something else wrong?
So what's the current status of params (cal, alk, PO4 & nitrate), corals appearances, NEW FISH idear's :dance:, feeding/supps, and carbon.
Muchas gracias Senor
Also I believe my PO4 is creeping up from my DI as it is nearing exhasution? TDS still come out 0, but I tested my batch of SW 2 weeks back & PO4 was 6(.0018), and this last mix was 13 (.0399). Time for new DI
Wonder if you or anyone else notices an increase in PO4 when DI is about out or something else wrong?
