drummereef's 180g in-wall build

[cromedogg33]

Sounds about right. I was reading some of sunnyx's post about he's dosing almost 4 capfuls a day on his system of MB7 to create the bacteria needed for the pellets.

I just ordered some zeo coral snow as well. No AA yet as I'm not sure I need them.

 

[Dyzio545]

Wow....just wow...what a journey. I actually read this entire thread from 1-118.

 

[drummereef]

Sounds about right. I was reading some of sunnyx's post about he's dosing almost 4 capfuls a day on his system of MB7 to create the bacteria needed for the pellets.

I just ordered some zeo coral snow as well. No AA yet as I'm not sure I need them.

Sounds good. Let me know how the Coral Snow works out.

Wow....just wow...what a journey. I actually read this entire thread from 1-118.

Thanks Dyzio. Yes a journey it has been.

 

[freetareef]

nice tank and build thread!!!

 

[drummereef]

nice tank and build thread!!!

Thank you freetareef.

 

[110galreef]

Way to slow in here....haha..

Sooooo, question. RO/DI plumbing.

How far is the feed (red) line from you copper fitting to the RO unit?
And how far does your drain (black) line run to drain?

Currently my RO/DI unit is in my fish room, so about 10' from my tank and 5' from my Top off holding tank. Also my drain line runs about 5' to drain.

Problem is in the winter, water incoming is SOOO cold, that the main line running to fish room will sweat as I make water for like 12hrs.

Option 1: Move RO/DI to my sump/ elctrical area, this is where my water enter house as well. Then run processed water about 60' to my fish room for TOP off & WC's. I can then run the drain (black) line to my fish room and drain it at it's current location in fish room. These runs wouldn't be too hard, currently thru exposed basement ceiling unfinished, just not sure if fine to have the good water run this far.

Option 1a.) is to run RO unit in electrical/sump area, then run water line to fish room and have the DI canister there and only a few feet from the TOP off container. Still need to run drain line 60' from sump/electrical room to the fish room. But drain line not really a big deal

Option 2. Just run the red line all the way from my sump/electrical room where the water enters the house all the way to the fish room thru basement ceiling about 60' and keep the RO/DI unit in the fish room? But not sure if the red line will sweat now? Also not sure if I'd need a larger line to RO due to length of the run?? However I could run the line in a better location so if it did sweat it's not dripping where i'd not want it or could easily wrap in some sort of insulating cover assuming they make it?

 

[drummereef]

Way to slow in here....haha..

Sooooo, question. RO/DI plumbing.

How far is the feed (red) line from you copper fitting to the RO unit?
And how far does your drain (black) line run to drain?

Currently my RO unit is in my fish room, so about 10' from my tank and 5' from my Top off holding tank. Also my drain line runs about 5' to drain.

Problem is in the winter, water incoming is SOOO cold, that the main line running to fish room will sweat as I make water for like 12hrs.

Option 1: Move RO/DI to my sump/ elctrical area, this is where my water enter house as well. Then run processed water about 60' to my fish room for TOP off & WC's. I can then run the drain (black) line to my fish room and drain it at it's current location in fish room. These runs wouldn't be too hard, currently thru exposed basement ceiling unfinished, just not sure if fine to have the good water run this far.

Option 1a.) is to run RO unit in electrical/sump area, then run water line to fish room and have the DI canister there and only a few feet from the TOP off container. Still need to run drain line 60' from sump/electrical room to the fish room. But drain line not really a big deal

Option 2. Just run the red line all the way from my sump/electrical room where the water enters the house all the way to the fish room thru basement ceiling about 60' and keep the RO/DI unit in the fish room? But not sure if the red line will sweat now? Also not sure if I'd need a larger line to RO due to length of the run?? However I could run the line in a better location so if it did sweat it's not dripping where i'd not want it or could easily wrap in some sort of insulating cover assuming they make it?

Hmmm, I have a similar problem when it gets sub ~20F here as well. Copper will sweat depending on the ambient temp of the room it's running, as well as the plastic tubing running to/from your RODI. Perhaps an easier solution would be to lower the humidity in the room(s) where the copper and plastic tubing are run. That, and if those rooms are somewhat "conditioned" with warm air from your HVAC it's going to make it worse. Especially if you have a humidifier on your furnace. I don't know if you'll raise the temp of the RO water enough even running 60' to the top off reservoir to avoid sweating. My hunch is it won't. If it were me I'd address the climate control of the rooms where the plumbing is first.

Insulating the copper is easy with black foam pipe wrap. I don't know if you can buy insulating foam for 1/4" tubing though. Something to think about as well.

Quick search ideas...
http://www.wrap-on.com/products/pi.html

 

[110galreef]

Incoming water is ICE cold!

so how far is your red line? does that sweat at times? My line that sweats is in my basement. Of which is "climate conditioned" and at a proper humidity level controlled via dehumidifier. If your red line sweats too, then my best bet is option 1 and see if the blue water line from the RO/DI will sweat? Do you think I would be better to have the DI right next to the filter or right next to TOP off container or make no difference?

My "humidifier" is a 250g DT & 40g frag tank! Hahah, but I only lose about 3 gals a day in the winter and that probabaly is an avg amount to "humidify" a 2700sq ft house anyway in our DRY air winters. So the house on a whole isn't real humid.

 

[drummereef]

Incoming water is ICE cold!

so how far is your red line? does that sweat at times? My line that sweats is in my basement. Of which is "climate conditioned" and at a proper humidity level controlled via dehumidifier. If your red line sweats too, then my best bet is option 1 and see if the blue water line from the RO/DI will sweat? Do you think I would be better to have the DI right next to the filter or right next to TOP off container or make no difference?

My "humidifier" is a 250g DT & 40g frag tank! Hahah, but I only lose about 3 gals a day in the winter and that probabaly is an avg amount to "humidify" a 2700sq ft house anyway in our DRY air winters. So the house on a whole isn't real humid.

My Red (raw water) tubing runs about 12', so about the same as yours. My drain line, black, is also about 12' or so. Mine only sweats when the outside temp gets below ~20F.

I guess that's my point is... even though the room is "conditioned" and is the proper humidity for a living space, it's still creating an environment for the tubing to sweat. Just like a glass of ice water sweats in the summer. I still think option 1 would still permit the tubing to sweat as the water will still be freezing cold flowing through the tubing - traveling through the living space. It's when the cold tubing hits the warm/moist air of the conditioned space is where the problem is. Insulating the tubing would be first thing I would try.

 

[110galreef]

I want to wrap the main house pipe, just may uglify :lmao: my mojo going in in parts of the basement! haha.

Hmmm, only issue is some of the main feed is in tough spots to get insulation on.

I wonder if I just pre-insulate the small water feed line for the RO/DI w/ something from the link you provided and run that the 50' from the sump/electrical room to the RO/DI unit in the fish room if that would solve it?

You see any issues with running the red(feed) line about 50'?

 

[gary faulkner]

Insulating the tubing would be first thing I would try.


And use a larger diameter line and coil it through the sump or some other warmer place before goin to the RODI. Helps with production rate also.

HTH

 

[drummereef]

I want to wrap the main house pipe, just may uglify :lmao: my mojo going in in parts of the basement! haha.

Hmmm, only issue is some of the main feed is in tough spots to get insulation on.

I wonder if I just pre-insulate the small water feed line for the RO/DI w/ something from the link you provided and run that the 50' from the sump/electrical room to the RO/DI unit in the fish room if that would solve it?

You see any issues with running the red(feed) line about 50'?

Sorry, just got home from work... :twitch:

Did some more research and found something that might work on the plastic tubing and look good too. Click the link below. The main house pipe will be easy to insulate if you have room. You can get 3/4" ID (depending on the size of copper you have) foam pipe wrap at HD or Lowes for that.

Insul-Tube 1/4" ID Closed Cell Foam Pipe Wrap
http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/h...Insulation-google_pr&infoParam.campaignId=T9F

You might check HD and see if they have the stuff but I'm sure your local HVAC company would stock it. I have some on the refrigerant line from my AC/Heat Pump that runs into my basement to the A-Coil on my furnace. Bingo!

 

[justin_g]

It just keeps getting better and better Brett. Nice job, and we could all take a lesson in patience

 

[salali]

Your tank is amazing.
Are you using ballast for your lights?

 

[110galreef]

And use a larger diameter line and coil it through the sump or some other warmer place before goin to the RODI. Helps with production rate also.

HTH

That is a good idea.....could use like a 5gal bucket & heater w/ 1/2 line coiled in it when I make water in the winter too?

 

[110galreef]

Sorry, just got home from work... :twitch:

Did some more research and found something that might work on the plastic tubing and look good too. Click the link below. The main house pipe will be easy to insulate if you have room. You can get 3/4" ID (depending on the size of copper you have) foam pipe wrap at HD or Lowes for that.

Insul-Tube 1/4" ID Closed Cell Foam Pipe Wrap
http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/h...Insulation-google_pr&infoParam.campaignId=T9F

You might check HD and see if they have the stuff but I'm sure your local HVAC company would stock it. I have some on the refrigerant line from my AC/Heat Pump that runs into my basement to the A-Coil on my furnace. Bingo!

Thanks for the links. :beer:

 

[drummereef]

It just keeps getting better and better Brett. Nice job, and we could all take a lesson in patience

Thanks Justin.

Your tank is amazing.
Are you using ballast for your lights?

Thanks salali. I'm using Galaxy Select-a-Watt Ballasts (250/250HQI/400) to run SE 250 watt Phoenix bulbs.

Thanks for the links. :beer:

You're welcome.

 

[gary faulkner]

That is a good idea.....could use like a 5gal bucket & heater w/ 1/2 line coiled in it when I make water in the winter too?

I just have mine coiled in the return section of my sump. It is always the same temp, Summer and Winter. The 5 gal. bucket with a heater would work also.

 

[drummereef]

UPDATE:


So my quest to find the best bacteria supplement continues. I don't know if Special Blend is the best but it's surely the stinkiest. Words can't describe the stench that emanates from the bottle. :lol: I plan on dosing it per the maintenance schedule on the bottle which equates to 60ml/weekly. Lots of good reviews out there so we'll see what happens...

Also picked up some Formula One Flakes. I was feeding Prime Reef Flake but after reading the ingredients, the Formula One has more of a variety of foods in it and the flake size is larger and more substantial than the Prime Reef. I found after a while the Prime Reef Flakes end up like dust in the bottom of the container. I'll let you know how the fish like it.

 

[gary faulkner]

I'm dosing 1/2 Special Blend and 1/2 MB7. The Special Blend does stink but it has a good rep. of keepin away cyano. I always dose late on Friday night after the wife heads off to bed to keep her from complaining.