drummereef's 180g in-wall build

drummereef, Can you post a picture of the front of your tank around the edges where your tank meets the living space walls? Did you extend your plywood top all the way over the top of your drywall and then cover it up with molding?
 
Drummereef I am looking forward to seeing how you will plumb in this refugium. I have to thank you as well. I am in the planning process for my build and like that manifold you have. space and power saving is always nice. When do you think you will start putting in a fuge? Also how large will you go? I was thinking with the volume of the tank and the rock work being on the light side, that adding substantlially more rock in the fuge plus some cheeto or calerpa might benifit your system. Should help with Nitrate/nitrite breakbown, and of course the phosphates.

Manifolds are a great addition to a larger system because of all the potential accessories you might run. Saves on energy and also less power cords to contend with. I haven't moved forward with details on the fuge yet. I was planning on mostly live rock in the fuge just for biodiversity more than anything. Thanks for posting. :)

I love this thread because you are so patient :)

Thanks salali, haven't seen you in a while. Thanks for stopping by. :)


Very nice. Very Patient. Congrats

Thanks DevilishDukie. :)

drummereef, Can you post a picture of the front of your tank around the edges where your tank meets the living space walls? Did you extend your plywood top all the way over the top of your drywall and then cover it up with molding?

I haven't done any moldings yet on the front of the tank... it's in my to-do list... :D As for the plywood top, it does not extend over the 1/2" drywall as there is no structural support over that 1/2". It is flush with the 2x4 studs below. when I trim it out I will have to make a "return" piece that fits in the gap that will be behind the moldings. Here's a picture that might help...

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=14708801&postcount=71
 
Brett,

Do you like the WXM module? I'm debating on grabbing one because I'm running 3 vortechs now with another on the way.

Tired of putting them into feed mode...which I rarely do but would like to program it at the touch of a button as well as night mode. I feel like I'm using too much flow at the night time and not giving everything in the tank a rest for the day.

How customizable is it for changing modes and ramping up and down to simulate going from night time calm to a mid day hectic flow pattern?
 
I stole your easy turn GF ball valve manifold idea. Those things turn so easy..love it.. Thanks for the idea..

You are welcome henry. :) And they will turn that easy a couple years from now too. Mine turn as easy now as they did the day I installed them. They are great valves.

Brett,

Do you like the WXM module? I'm debating on grabbing one because I'm running 3 vortechs now with another on the way.

Tired of putting them into feed mode...which I rarely do but would like to program it at the touch of a button as well as night mode. I feel like I'm using too much flow at the night time and not giving everything in the tank a rest for the day.

How customizable is it for changing modes and ramping up and down to simulate going from night time calm to a mid day hectic flow pattern?

I love the WXM module Josh. I use it primarily to alternate programs on my Vortechs throughout the day. I have one in ReefCrest while the other is in Lagoon, and at the top of every hour they alternate programs. Pretty cool stuff. You can set up all kinds of different custom programmings like Feeds etc, so I think you'll get all you want an more out of one module. I may do the same "night time" programming as well. Or at least turn the 'max-level' output down a tiny bit after the lights go out - say to 70% vs 100% daytime flow. ;)
 
Brett,
I feel like I'm using too much flow at the night time and not giving everything in the tank a rest for the day.
Do waves and current slow down at night in the ocean? No. Corals use the current to feed. Some need it to remove waste at night....They are use to it... my 2 cents.
 
Do waves and current slow down at night in the ocean? No. Corals use the current to feed. Some need it to remove waste at night....They are use to it... my 2 cents.

I would disagree that waves in the ocean along reefs do tend to slow down at night. This might not be the case all the time, but my rational behind it, is to give my fish that are trying to sleep a calmer environment to do so. I also believe this may give corals more of a chance to eat at night as well. Is it fact....I dunno....does it sound hypothetically able to work in my mind...yes :)
 
I might add - since we are working within a closed system and in most cases a relatively small closed systems, cranking down the overall flow output by 30% or so isn't going to have an effect on the corals' feeding patterns. So in my system with a total flow rate of ~8600gph, reducing that amount 30% at night to ~6000gph is still a heck of a lot of flow for a 180g footprint. But it might allow the corals to "relax" in a sense to stimulate a feeding response. Just totally speaking out loud but that's my thoughts... :lol:
 
UPDATE:

Looks like the NO3 is coming down slowly but surely. From my API test kit it looks to be ~15ppm, down from 20ppm where it was holding strong for a while. It's been roughly a week since introducing the new TLF Bioplastics pellets. I'll keep updating as I keep testing. :)
 
Any news on the BP's Brett? I'm debating putting mine back on.

The pellets are definitely clumping way more than the EcoBAK I was previously using. I've even had to open the reactor and stir them up a couple times to mix them up a bit. I don't think it's directly related since the NO3 is roughly the same as when I put them online but I started to get a slight increase in the Dino population - slightly more than what was already there. Hmmm... So I've been treating again with H202, ~22ml/day. Like before, I don't think it's doing anything at this dosage but perhaps pushing them off until the next light cycle. I've been either siphoning them into a filter sock in the sump for easy removal or blowing them off with a turkey baster then broadcast dosing the tank with H202.

At what rate of dosing did you start to see a major difference in your Dino population? And/or what would you consider the maximum safe dosage, since you were obviously dosing a lot towards the end of your battle. :D

I'm considering buying the Fauna Marin product Ultra Algae X if I can find it domestically. Heard good things about this product and Dinos. In the mean time I think I can get my hands on a Vortex Diatom Filter I'm considering using once a day. Plan is to shut down the return pump, blow off rocks and corals with a powerhead and run the Vortex to suck up all the gunk - rinse and repeat until something happens. :lol:
 
Brett,

I was literally taking the big size bottles and squeezing in a 1/4 bottle at a time twice a day. I went through 4 big bottles and about 3 little ones before the dino's finally receaded.

I was probably dosing up to 4oz at a time. The one thing different between my tank and yours is you have more coral in at the time than I did while dosing. I had clams a few acros and some lps. I noticed 0 long lasting affects but you will see polyp extension reduce for about a hour or 2. None of my fish showed signs of irritation either.

I imagine you are using the 3% h202 as well. I definately don't think you can oversode within reason. Most people would call 4oz a gross overdose but 4oz of 3% solution in 200+ gallons of water dissapates so fast in reality it's not THAT much. I would definately not be afraid to double or ever triple your dose or whatever you feel you need to test up to, to feel comftorable.
 
OK, I know it is fun to "tweak" to get that perfect tank, but it isn't going to happen:lol: The best bet for the dinos and little things that look off, is to just fill that tank with corals. The corals will uptake the nutrients and viola!! Just my opinion though:D
 
Brett,

I was literally taking the big size bottles and squeezing in a 1/4 bottle at a time twice a day. I went through 4 big bottles and about 3 little ones before the dino's finally receaded.

I was probably dosing up to 4oz at a time. The one thing different between my tank and yours is you have more coral in at the time than I did while dosing. I had clams a few acros and some lps. I noticed 0 long lasting affects but you will see polyp extension reduce for about a hour or 2. None of my fish showed signs of irritation either.

I imagine you are using the 3% h202 as well. I definately don't think you can oversode within reason. Most people would call 4oz a gross overdose but 4oz of 3% solution in 200+ gallons of water dissapates so fast in reality it's not THAT much. I would definately not be afraid to double or ever triple your dose or whatever you feel you need to test up to, to feel comftorable.

Yes, I'm using the 3% stuff from Walgreens. Thanks for the info Josh. I will continue my efforts. :)


OK, I know it is fun to "tweak" to get that perfect tank, but it isn't going to happen:lol: The best bet for the dinos and little things that look off, is to just fill that tank with corals. The corals will uptake the nutrients and viola!! Just my opinion though:D

Ha! Well I'm coming over tonight then! You were needing to frag some more anyway right??? :rollface: :lol: This all started when I changed my bulbs from the 20K Radiums to the 14K Phoenix. Major PAR increase that set my corals off. What do you think about the theory that the corals expelled too much of their zooxanthellae which contains dinoflagellate and caused the issue?

I'm running GFO again to uptake any excess PO4 that might be in the water column, but there's not much since my tests always are 000. It's all bound in the rock and expelled somewhat by the corals from what I can tell. I can see the dinos growing from the SPS tips/polyps before I baste them (everyday). :hmm4:



Awsome set up dream tank in my part of town

Thanks magneeto! :)
 
OK, I know it is fun to "tweak" to get that perfect tank, but it isn't going to happen:lol: The best bet for the dinos and little things that look off, is to just fill that tank with corals. The corals will uptake the nutrients and viola!! Just my opinion though:D

Could you help me with that? :beer:
 
I doubled up on my H202 dose tonight after a 48hr lights out period. Seemed to help a bit... But coincidentally enough I moved a couple corals around, some which I hadn't epoxied to the aquascape yet, and to my surprise after 4 or 5 rounds of epoxy and superglue... no more dinos! :eek1: Well, not 100% but the dinos that were attached to many of the affected corals had disappeared. Seemed as though the dinos on the rocks had receded as well. Normally they would have returned in a few minutes after basting but this time they didn't come back. Guess they don't like the smell of epoxy either! Strange huh?!?

Maybe Nook is right... I just need more corals (and epoxy)!! :lol:
 
very interesting - zo zuper glu or epoxy may rid dino's, vee must get to the bottom of this !!!
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