I would disagree that waves in the ocean along reefs do tend to slow down at night. This might not be the case all the time, but my rational behind it, is to give my fish that are trying to sleep a calmer environment to do so. I also believe this may give corals more of a chance to eat at night as well. Is it fact....I dunno....does it sound hypothetically able to work in my mind...yes![]()
So I'm wanting to drill a couple 1-1/4" holes in the body of my pellet reactor to fit some 1/2" UniSeals so I can plumb it to recirculate. I talked with the guys at NextReef today and they were concerned I might crack the reactor if I used a hole saw, so they recommended using a Unibit instead.
Any thoughts here from the acrylic wizards out there? If I went super slow and ran some cool water over the acrylic as I was cutting with the hole saw, would this prevent cracking? Or am I better off using the Unibit instead?
Nice clean work as always, looks great. The unibit sounds like a good idea to me too but sorry no experience using them with acrylic, good luck man.
I live in Thailand, and have spent quite a lot of time on island with reefs; invariably (unless of course its story etc.) the ocean is much smoother in the morning, with waves (albeit it small waves) building throughout the day.
So, I would conclude that yes, the reef is calmer at night.
That being said, it is probably like 10% calmer - if even that.
should we slow pumps in our reef tanks at night - well as much as we try to replicate nature as much as possible, we need to acknowledge that our tanks are a compromise - a compromise in many ways. One of those compromises is that between the needs of corals and the needs of our reef fishes. In out 10sq.ft or so of reef, we try to replicate the high flow turbulent conditions of upper reefs - but our tanks lack the 2m+ gorges and crevices and niches of a natural reef which are quieter and calmer. On natural reefs, this is where many of the fish go to sleep ..... in our openly aquascaped reef tanks, where we do our utmost to eliminate deadspots, no such quite spots exist.
To that end, if one considers the compromise between the fishes health and that of the corals, I think it would be reasonable to reduce flow at night by say 30% - maybe even 50%.
Hole saw, slowly and straight and you should have no issues.
I like the idea of the valve to throttle the circulation but it would be better for the pump if it could be incorporated on the discharge rather then the inlet.
Also given the elbow right before the outlet the flow will not be consistent, there will be a higher velocity coming off the back side of the elbow then the near side. This may cause one side to tumble more then the other, it could create a dead zone or the whole media may in turn circulate around a water jet (example; water jet up one side and the media piles up on the other flowing back into the water jet.
A cone bottom would help or adding something to the center bottom to help divert the flow evenly
Thanks for the ideas Pete.I had the same concern about the valve being on the suction side, but after contacting Jeff at Reef Dynamics, he said since the "feed" to the reactor was below the valve it would keep the pump flooded at all times. When the valve is turned down it would divert suction to the feed, when turned up it would limit flow-through - essentially it would balance itself either way. This is how he plumbs their reactors. Thoughts?
I agree things should ballance out and I'm not concerned about the throughput flow. My concern is more with a restricted suction can cause pump cavitation. After some more thought it probably isn't an issue as it's recirculating creating as much back pressure on the discharge as there is pull on the suction.
As a general rule, to reduce pump stress and potential cavitation, you want to control flow on a pump on the discharge side.
OK, one more question... I'm going to use a Mag 3 that I have here for the recirc pump. It has both 1/2" NPT on the ins/outs. Would it be sufficient to keep the plumbing 1/2" since it's a recirc and there's minimal plumbing length? The original down-tube that came with the reactor is 1/2" so I don't see why it would be a problem, but just checking.
I would just keep it 1/2".
also look at a side out elbow for your feed, not that it maters from flow but may save a little foot print space. It's a standard elbow with a threaded connection coming off the turn. It forms a corner shape but with one connection threaded. You can find them at most hardware stores.
If I can get a slip x slip x fpt it would even be better, that way I can just insert my tubing adapter directly into the fpt side. Perfect! :thumbsup:
if you don't see them in the regular pipe section of the hardware store, check the sprinkler supply section; they look like this:
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Why not rotate the pump 90 degrees and insert the pump output through the reactor's PVC bottom? You will get great mixing and save on the overall footprint. Plus PVC is easier to drill.
Brett,
Have you checked out the new cadlights design?
I think I finally understand what you are trying to accomplish by doing something similar to the reef dynamics one. I have been trying to think if there was anyway possible to use a manifold and I don't think it's possible.
I just hate the fact you would have to use another pump.