drummereef's 180g in-wall build

Is that Nitrate test old? I might want to get that verified by another kit, another reefer, or a fish store before you do anything too drastic. I've never even seen that color before...
 
Brett,

If I were you I would just be patient and wait out that Nitrate spike. Even though it is the less harmful of the cycle, it is NEVER a good idea to rush things. Plus the reward for doing it right is just so much sweeter. Just look at the rest of your system, you know what I am talking about.

Thanks tredreef. I was under the impression that when cycling, NO3 won't come down unless you do a water change etc...? They just keep rising. That's why I'm wondering if any significant amount would transfer to the fuge if I don't transfer any water? :confused:

Is that Nitrate test old? I might want to get that verified by another kit, another reefer, or a fish store before you do anything too drastic. I've never even seen that color before...

I'm fairly confident the NO3 kit is fine. I've recently tested the display (like last week) with it and came up with <5ppm. I was expecting the Pukani to have a lot of NO3 but it's measuring over 160ppm! That's why I'm wondering what I should do... Perform a 100% water change in the cycling container and leave the rock for another week or so? Or, just transfer the rock to the fuge - if you don't think the NO3 will go with it? :confused:
 
Brett,

Thought you might find this interesting - a writeup I found from Tom (TMZ) from the RK Mag staff. I was looking for more info to follow along on your use and modding of the biopellet reactor.

He has some really good information here on different carbon sources and how the pellets breakdown to be used by bacteria:

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2134105

An exerpt (from Post #21) from the thread - its a very long, but informative read. Biased towards the use of vodka/vinegar as a carbon source, but very good bio pellet information as well:

Polymers( carbohydrates) these include: bio pellets which are carbohydrate based plastics. There are different types but commercial hobby companies don't tell us what they are using so useful comparisons of pellet types beyond anecdotal accounts are unavailable. .BTW Some folks are using diy polymer plastics

Methods: reactor use, placement in canister filters or good flow areas in sumps are the most prevalent methods.
There are some products that contain tiny beads in liquid that some dose directly to the tank.
Comment and Opinion:
I was excited but skeptical about these when then first hit the market. Mostly because the were claimed to segregate bacterial activity and it's effects to the pellets without braodcasting the activity throughout the tank.
This proved untrue as there are many reports of cyano blooms, coral stress, and bacterial blooms ocurring with them indicative of off pellet activity, ie: monomers are diffusing, bacteria are growing off the pellets and bacterial by products are effecting some systems adversely in terms of cyano growth and coral health. I have not seen a report of long term success with them.There are now a myriad of bio pellet products and equipment to choose from for those who are so inclined.

They are expensive compared to other types.

Equipment is required for most applications adding to the cost and complexity of managing the dosing. In fact a majority of the posts on polymer pellets( aka bio pellets) concern reactor choices flow rates pellet amounts, etc. Disappointingly ,there is little focus on the bacteria culture which is the essence of it all.

It's hard to know or control how much organic carbon you are actually dosing at a given time. Pellets degrade, flow varies , clogs happen, etc.

They are polymers which I personally choose not to dose since a long cascade of bacterial activity some of which may be harmful by different strains occurs in degrading them down to acetate which is a beneficial substance to living things.
 
WoW ur a reefing God. Love it. !!! wish i had the space in my house for something ilke this .

Ha, I wish! :lol: Thanks oquockyo.

Brett,

Thought you might find this interesting - a writeup I found from Tom (TMZ) from the RK Mag staff. I was looking for more info to follow along on your use and modding of the biopellet reactor.

He has some really good information here on different carbon sources and how the pellets breakdown to be used by bacteria:

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2134105

An exerpt (from Post #21) from the thread - its a very long, but informative read. Biased towards the use of vodka/vinegar as a carbon source, but very good bio pellet information as well:

Interesting read Tim. I know TMZ is not a fan of bio pellets from other posts I've read but he is very educated on most chemistry topics. I disagree with some of his post, mostly in regards to bacteria dosing. I had massive results dosing ZeoZyme in combination with BioMate. It visibly helped to clean up the mulm and excess organics on the surface of my Marco Rock. But I agree with him, carbon dosing of any kind can be hit or miss which is dependent on a lot of factors. I had good luck with bio pellets reducing NO3 and PO4 each time I've used them. There's a point though, even with a recirculating reactor, that the bacteria population becomes too efficient for the bio load - again dependent on many factors i.e. how much you feed, what types of foods, system water volume, volume of pellets used, etc... I don't think there's many people that have hit the level of equilibrium necessary to run them continuously - at least in home aquaria it seems. I recently removed my reactor to see if was effecting any of my corals negatively and/or causing any of my substrate algae issues. So far, no change but it's only been about a week. Thanks for posting! :)
 
UPDATE:


Did some more testing tonight... Ammonia is 0, Nitrite is 0, but to my shock Nitrate is off the chart! I didn't even have to wait 5 minutes for the test to develop, the color was instant. :eek1: I expected high NO3 but this was shocking to say the least.

I will obviously be filling the fuge with fresh saltwater and transferring ONLY the rock to it when ready. Do you think any of that excess NO3 will transfer to the fuge when I add the rock or will it just stay in the cycling water? :confused:

Nitrate.jpg~original

Brett

you need to enter that picture in our local clubs picture of the month contest. This months subject is any thing hot!!!:wildone:
 
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Speaking of Puerto Rico, I've been through 3 times on cruises. The last time I was there I went on a kayak excursion through the Vieques Bio-luminescent Bay. I have to say that was one of the most amazing things I've ever seen in my life. I wish I could get my tank to light up at night like that.
Thanks for the kind words of my island, I wish more people in the island appreciated the beauty of our natural habitat/resources. If I'm not mistaken that bio-luminescent effect is cause by a dinoflagellates in the water, but you probably knows more than me on the subject since you took the tour. Thats a astonishing site.
...and please come a again (in indoo accent):D

tredreef Brett,

If I were you I would just be patient and wait out that Nitrate spike. Even though it is the less harmful of the cycle, it is NEVER a good idea to rush things. Plus the reward for doing it right is just so much sweeter. Just look at the rest of your system, you know what I am talking about.
08/20/2012 10:42 PM

+1
 
So Brett you took your reactor offline again?

I just finished building my recirc reactor, almost identical to yours. I used a sicce 1.0 though and just drilled the reactor and used uniseals. The plan is to put it online this weekend.

With it being recirc you have control of input and output I assume? More likely controlling the input rather than the output to reduce pressure on the reactor. Did you notice ill effects on anything in the tank? I only ask because I'm going to be starting EXTREMELY slow this time with pellets and probably have it turn my tank over once every 4-5 days. I think I'll start with 250ml-500ml of pellets.
 
Brett, are you reading "any" nitrite at all? If so, that will cause your nitrate result to read a false high.
 
Never mind, I saw you are reading zero nitrite. This is why I like good quality "liverock". It has a ton of biodiversity and rarely will you see that high of nitrate.
 
you got me thinking of investing in a few crabs... how long did it take them eat up all of your bubble algae? . ive been having some issues with BA for a little while.
 
Thanks for the kind words of my island, I wish more people in the island appreciated the beauty of our natural habitat/resources. If I'm not mistaken that bio-luminescent effect is cause by a dinoflagellates in the water, but you probably knows more than me on the subject since you took the tour. Thats a astonishing site.
...and please come a again (in indoo accent):D

:D I wish I had the funds to make it down again, but hopefully soon. ;) That bay was truly amazing. The guide said there were only 3 or 4 of those in the world and you have one!! Very cool. :)


So Brett you took your reactor offline again?

I just finished building my recirc reactor, almost identical to yours. I used a sicce 1.0 though and just drilled the reactor and used uniseals. The plan is to put it online this weekend.

With it being recirc you have control of input and output I assume? More likely controlling the input rather than the output to reduce pressure on the reactor. Did you notice ill effects on anything in the tank? I only ask because I'm going to be starting EXTREMELY slow this time with pellets and probably have it turn my tank over once every 4-5 days. I think I'll start with 250ml-500ml of pellets.

I took it offline last week, simply because I was testing 0 NO3 and 0 PO4 in the display (with my original phosphate checker). I was just curious to see if it was adding to the algae issue in the sand bed, but I haven't seen an improvement after taking offline so I'm not sure what's the deal there. Corals look the same, no difference yet. You have a good plan... I would start with 1/4 - 1/2 the recommended amount of pellets and adjust the input to regulate the flow-through the reactor. I left the valve on the output fully open to reduce internal pressure - like you stated in your post. There's lots of factors involved like I stated before but I think you'll have good results reducing nutrients using it, albeit slowly. :)


Brett, are you reading "any" nitrite at all? If so, that will cause your nitrate result to read a false high.

Never mind, I saw you are reading zero nitrite. This is why I like good quality "liverock". It has a ton of biodiversity and rarely will you see that high of nitrate.

Indeed, but you know me... :rollface: :D I'll re-test Nitrite just to make sure. I'm also most likely going to do a 100% water change in the curing tub and let the rock cook for another week or so. Just need to pick up some more salt this weekend. I would think a massive water change would take care of the issue enough to move forward but we shall see... Thanks for checking in Nook! :)

you got me thinking of investing in a few crabs... how long did it take them eat up all of your bubble algae? . ive been having some issues with BA for a little while.

The Emeralds destroyed my bubble algae issue. I purchased mine from Salty Underground. They were fresh from the Florida Keys, picked them up the same day they came in. It didn't take long, I'd say 3-4 weeks before they were begging for food. I recently lost one, not sure why -perhaps lack of food. In a 60g cube I'd only get 1 or maybe 2 max depending on how much bubble algae you have. Once they've beaten the algae I'd consider giving them to someone else with a bubble problem or sell back to LFS so they don't go hungry. ;)
 
The Emeralds destroyed my bubble algae issue. I purchased mine from Salty Underground. They were fresh from the Florida Keys, picked them up the same day they came in. It didn't take long, I'd say 3-4 weeks before they were begging for food. I recently lost one, not sure why -perhaps lack of food. In a 60g cube I'd only get 1 or maybe 2 max depending on how much bubble algae you have. Once they've beaten the algae I'd consider giving them to someone else with a bubble problem or sell back to LFS so they don't go hungry. ;)

Did yours develop a taste for anything else after the BA was gone? Detrius? uneaten food? other algae?
 
Brett

you need to enter that picture in our local clubs picture of the month contest. This months subject is any thing hot!!!:wildone:

Hahaha! It's RED HOT! :lol2:

Did yours develop a taste for anything else after the BA was gone? Detrius? uneaten food? other algae?

They pick around on the rocks constantly, so I'm assuming they are eating coralline and the occasional tubeworm etc. I don't really have any filamentous algaes in the display so I know they aren't feeding on that. I'm pretty sure they scavenge for uneaten food at night because I've seen them picking at the sand a bit. I have a few empty snail shells that I need to gather up but I'm not convinced the Emeralds got them. I've had a few snails drop off over the last few months which I just figure is life cycle etc...
 
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Did you recheck your nitrite?

Thanks for the reminder, just re-checked... So the color on my API kit isn't totally aqua blue which indicates 0, but it's definitely below 0.25 which is the next color indicator - purple. I'm going to say it's below 0.15ppm.. More or less a light clear blue if that makes sense. :fun5: Do you think even a nominal amount of Nitrite would result in an invalid NO3 test?
 
I'm not sure how much it takes:confused: I do know that when I read 1 on my nitrite kit that my nitrate reading will be sky high.
 
I'm not sure how much it takes:confused: I do know that when I read 1 on my nitrite kit that my nitrate reading will be sky high.


Gotcha. Mine is no where near 1ppm but I wouldn't put it past it to influence the NO3. I still plan on doing a 100% water change, keeping the rock as wet as possible during the process, and then re-check in a few days to see where I'm at in the process. Drawing water now, I think I have enough salt to make the switch either tonight or tomorrow. :)
 
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