drummereef's 180g in-wall build

I used the ACjr for 1 month and upgrade right to the APEX lol.

Once you upgrade you are going to fall in love with the web server and all the little intricacies that are missing on the JR.


The good news is, by the time you get the Apex the vortech control module will hopefully be out! Can't wait for that thing man.
 
What are you planning on for "proper plugs" in lieu of the wire nuts? I just soldered mine together (I also have those male disconnects for my lumatek ballasts, which use the exact same plugs).
 
I used the ACjr for 1 month and upgrade right to the APEX lol.

Once you upgrade you are going to fall in love with the web server and all the little intricacies that are missing on the JR.


The good news is, by the time you get the Apex the vortech control module will hopefully be out! Can't wait for that thing man.

:lol: You are probably right. :D
 
What are you planning on for "proper plugs" in lieu of the wire nuts? I just soldered mine together (I also have those male disconnects for my lumatek ballasts, which use the exact same plugs).


The Sunlight Supply male disconnect cords are 15' long. I plan on running these through the tubing in the rack and terminating right at each LB with a plug (male). I will cut the leads on the LBs to a 12" whip and install a receptacle (female). That way I can unplug each LB independently and also at each ballast while keeping the wiring in place.
 
Great Job on everything so far. You really are taking your time to do it right. it will pay of for you in the long run big time.

FYI. I just hooked up a booster pump after a couple years of operation on my R/O and it made a a huge difference in production. I am on well water though with low pressure.
 
Great Job on everything so far. You really are taking your time to do it right. it will pay of for you in the long run big time.

FYI. I just hooked up a booster pump after a couple years of operation on my R/O and it made a a huge difference in production. I am on well water though with low pressure.

I hope so erics, it's taking long enough. :lol: I'm almost to where I can see water though. :) Good to know about the booster pump. I was struggling with getting a unit with a booster but might add one in the near future depending on what my production rates are.
 
UPDATE:


150lbs of Key Largo Marco Rock came yesterday. :) Overall I'm extremely impressed with Marco's product, it's exactly as advertised. :thumbsup: Only opened one box so far and am loving what I see. Here's some pics!


The boxes


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Nicely bubble wrapped and packed


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Inside each box, each piece of rock was individually bubble wrapped. Very nice.


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First couple pieces I took out


http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa113/drummereef/180g%20Reef%20Tank/Picture013.jpg[~original/IMG]


Size comparison with my iPhone as reference


[IMG]http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa113/drummereef/180g%20Reef%20Tank/Picture015.jpg~original


Closeup. I'll try and get a better pic but this gives you a decent idea of the porosity and color. They are actually whiter than the pic shows. Other than a little dust they are very clean too. :)


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More to come on the light rack in a bit..... :sleep:
 
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After you wash it real good you might want to let it sit in R/O for a while to make sure everything leaches off. I had some nats on one of my pieces but really love there rock.

Do you have some live rock too that your mixing in with it, or a tub setup with alight while your finishing everything else?
 
superb! I'm convinced, maybe I need some too.


What do you mean by maybe? :lol: It's really nice rock, you wouldn't be disappointed. I called Marc and he was really receptive to my project and tank size. He instructed me to give them my tank size and any other details about the system they should know. That way they can pick sizes accordingly. He said just put it in the "notes" during the checkout process online. Marc is a super guy. :)
 
After you wash it real good you might want to let it sit in R/O for a while to make sure everything leaches off. I had some nats on one of my pieces but really love there rock.

Do you have some live rock too that your mixing in with it, or a tub setup with alight while your finishing everything else?

Cool will do. I plan on washing it in a bucket of RO when I get it plumbed. I don't have any live rock I'm adding at this point. I'm so scared of live rock from the LFS anymore because of the mess I ended up with in my 40g. One word.... HYDROIDS!!! :hammer: Thus the reason for the Marco rock this time around. :)
 
UPDATE:


OK, the light rack is done! Got it wired up and ready for service. I had to figure out a way to splice the 18 gauge leads from the LB's to the 16 gauge quick disconnects from the ballasts. So with the help of crvz and my EE brother-in-law I got to work. Thanks for all the tips crvz! :)


First I ran the 18 gauge leads through the tubing and terminated at one of the previously drilled holes by each LB. Stripped the insulation in preparation for the plug installation.


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I added rubber grommets to keep the wires from chaffing on the aluminum tubing.


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I purchased some molded rubber plugs from HD. Wired them up appropriately.


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The finished plug (female side).


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I also cut off each lead on the LB's to a 12" whip and added the "male" side which you will see in some later pics. ;)





More to come..... :fish1:
 
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Next I had the daunting task of how to safely splice the two wires together. I decided on using a "Western Union" type splice. It's an in-line type splice that allows for a strong mechanical and electrical connection. Here's how is goes...


STEP ONE: Hold the two wires to be joined at a 90 degree angle to one another. Make sure to twist the strands of each wire first before going to step two.


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STEP TWO: Begin twisting clockwise with one hand and counter clockwise with the other. As you can see a nice twist is made between the two wires. They should be tight enough where they can't pull apart easily. Also, make sure to push down any strands that are sticking up. You don't want any strands poking through the tape or heat shink which will be added in a later step.


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STEP THREE: To give the joint even more strength I soldered each one. I won't get into the in's and out's of soldering but there's lots of information on the net if you don't know how. Key is to heat the wire, not the solder. Keep the iron under the wire and when the wire is hot enough it will draw the solder into it. Just add enough solder to coat the wire, don't glob it on. ;)


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The finished soldered connection.


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I originally was going to use heat shrink on each splice but after trying a couple test pieces I wasn't able to use the soldering iron and heat shrink in such a small joint. I ended up melting the heat shrink before I was done soldering. So, crvz recommended using 3M's Super 33+ electrical tape. I can say this was a very wise move. After using cheap tape in the past I won't ever use anything else. This stuff is great!


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STEP FOUR: Tape each soldered connection making sure no strands poke through the tape.


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STEP FIVE: Once all the splices were taped, I bundled all three wires together and taped them together for some extra support.


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STEP SIX: Not a necessary step but I really wanted to make sure the splices wouldn't have the tendency to bend so I added some heat shrink tubing to each wire to add a little more support. Just make sure you put the heat shrink tubing on the wire before you solder.... get it? :D


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I used a lighter since I don't have a heat gun. I really need to get a heat gun! :D


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Finished wire.


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More to come..... :fish1:
 
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And finally the finished project. I will be adding some split flex tubing to bundle and organize the wires but need to order some long enough.


Here is the finish male/female plug that will allow me to disconnect each LB independently. You can see how I cut each lead off the LB's to a 12" whip to allow the connection at the plug to be nice and tidy.


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This is how the bundled wires exit the light rack tubing. I will be adding some split flex tubing to organize the wires further.


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As you can see I cut the leads to a specific length in mind so as I routed the wires it would keep the splices straight. After I add the split flex the wires will be concealed but will attach to to eye bolts the same way. Ballasts, DC8, and DC4HD will be mounted to the wall on the right.


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Another shot of the finished rack and wiring.


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Now on to making the mounting panels for the ballasts and RO/DI. :)
 
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That is too sweet. My light rack really looks like I spent $20-$30 on it now after looking at that master piece.
 
drummereef said:
I might add some LED strips to the rack down the road but it'll be a while. I will do the sunrise/sunset effect by turning one LB on and off at a time in sequence. Similar to what Melev has started doing on his tank.

Cool. I plan on doing that as well on some level as well.

Ditto. Which fixtures have you guys been looking at, or are you gonna DIY?
 
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