Dry Rock...where to get them?

I think two different ideas are being discussed here. Drummereef’s explanation sounds (to me) like a mix between “cycling” a new tank, colonizing your dry rock to “live rock” and removing phosphates (PO4). Which, are all things you need to do. The other idea being discussed seems to be the concept of strictly removing the phosphates from the rock. Both of which are correct in their own regard, but it depends on how you want to go about it.

In my opinion, I want the PO4 out of the rock before I expose it to any conditions favorable for algae/bacterial growth (definitely don’t want to expose it to light). This is why I threw mine in a brute can with fresh mix of saltwater, a powerhead for circulation, NO heater and the lid on the can. Why saltwater and not RODI? I don’t know to be honest. If I were to do it again, I would just use RODI. From there, I did complete water changes every other week or so and pulled out and rinsed each rock individually (and the container). The first water change you will see that the water has a brown tint and a distinct smell (like muddy water?). I measured my P04 from start to finish but by the end the water should be clear and you will notice the smell is mostly gone (if you have a PO4 tester just create a log and test it every two weeks before you change the water). I don’t have my notes in front of me but I believe this took a little over 2 months.

Once the rock is free of PO4 you can put it in your tank but you will have to seed it with live rock from someone. I have always done this with my own live rock and I also added Instant Oceans BIO-Spira to help jump start the cycle (keep the lights off on the tank for another week or 2 to give the bacteria a little head start but all other systems can be online (skimmer/heater/etc.)). Whether the BIO-Spira actually helped anything? I have no idea. But I had read a lot of good things about that product and I figured adding a little extra nitrifying bacteria to get the system online faster couldn’t hurt. Overall I was pleased with the results of the live rock and BIO-Spira combo.

I think you will do fine with either method. I like Drummereef’s method for the fact it does everything at once. I just chose to break that process into separate steps to ensure my rock was free of PO4 before I started anything.

Good luck!
 
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If you only use freshwater to leach PO4 then use RO/DI. Tap water will just bring other nutrients into the equation you don't want. ;) But, yes there are 2 separate methods being discussed here. I chose the "kill two birds with one stone" approach. :D
 
Hey guys...this is such a precious discussion!
First of all Drummereef and Sistom, thanks much for spending time and energy to elaborate a really great answer to my newby questions. It helps a lot!
Now, unfortunately the options are vast so...what to do??? And before I go any further, just FYI, with my Rocks order, I also ordered a RO/DI filter so whatever I do, I wil do it with RO/DI water!

I was setting the expectations to myself that I would Start the Tanks cycling by Christmas time. that would give me about a month between the time the rocks arrive and when the "D" Day.

Right now I need power heads , lights and sand. My idea is to get a used fixture while cycling so by the time I get my corals on, I should have budget for decent LED lights.

Well having said all that, what I probably will do is to go for Drummereef approach. By Christmas I should have the rocks PO4 free and cured. At that point I will setup the tank and off we go for the ride!

I will swing by HD to get the Brute container (just look for the NFS on the bottom right?) today or tomorrow so I will be ready for the process!
For the salt mix, any suggestions?!
 
Hey guys...this is such a precious discussion!
First of all Drummereef and Sistom, thanks much for spending time and energy to elaborate a really great answer to my newby questions. It helps a lot!
Now, unfortunately the options are vast so...what to do??? And before I go any further, just FYI, with my Rocks order, I also ordered a RO/DI filter so whatever I do, I wil do it with RO/DI water!

I was setting the expectations to myself that I would Start the Tanks cycling by Christmas time. that would give me about a month between the time the rocks arrive and when the "D" Day.

Right now I need power heads , lights and sand. My idea is to get a used fixture while cycling so by the time I get my corals on, I should have budget for decent LED lights.

Well having said all that, what I probably will do is to go for Drummereef approach. By Christmas I should have the rocks PO4 free and cured. At that point I will setup the tank and off we go for the ride!

I will swing by HD to get the Brute container (just look for the NFS on the bottom right?) today or tomorrow so I will be ready for the process!
For the salt mix, any suggestions?!

The gray color Brute is fine. Sounds like a solid plan considering you have enough time to properly cycle the rock while you are putting the rest of the system together. I use Instant Ocean for my tank, not saying it's the best by any means... but it's cheap and works. :D
 
Last Wednesday was like early Christmas. 3 large boxes arrived at my doorstep.
Got my Rocks, Filter and Tube for sending the RO/DI water from the Garage to the Aquarium room in preparation for whatever I will get for ATO system.
Regarding the rocks, Sistom was right...100lbs of those are too much. I putted 80% of the lot (ok, around 80lbs) on the tank, shown in the pics below, and I still have 2 large pieces off.
I got a couple of setups Wed night and took some pics prior my traveling during the weekend, and I thought that if I put them here, you would give me some hints if I'm doing right or wrong. If wrong, what could I do to improve.
The pieces are large, and if I need to do changes, I would probably have to hack and slash though them (which I realized already that is very messy)
I like what I did within 5 min fooling around but I have the impression you guys will say is to crowded..well suggestions are welcome.
1-
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2-
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3-
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4-
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I see. Does that not hurt a deep sand bed. And how bad is a single point since aquariums have a tempered glass bottom
 
It helps to keep the structure in place too! Rocks don't slide around on the glass bottom!
I think I will need to re-do it because I think with the water, the refraction effect will make the composition look too Cramped, considering that the refraction will bring things to the front!
 
It helps to keep the structure in place too! Rocks don't slide around on the glass bottom!
I think I will need to re-do it because I think with the water, the refraction effect will make the composition look too Cramped, considering that the refraction will bring things to the front!
 
I like the "openness" of the 2nd pic. However I wouldn't go nearly as high with the rock. Depends on the corals you want to keep but I like having plenty of space above the rock for grow-in area. Ideally, for me at least, I want to see as little rock as possible once everything is grown in. It's just a structure to hold the pretty stuff. :)
 
Ok...quick update. Rocks are in the Container now (got the 44 Gal). Powerhead and Heater on...thought about mixing salt but I will let it sit for a week on RO/DI water only and do a full water change with the SW this time. That gives me time to get the Bacteria mix and PO4 remover. Now that I come to think, I don't really need the heater on!!!Oh well...
For the dripping administration, I was thinking about a DIY with a hospital IV set and bottle or something...you guys have any ideas/tips on that ? I don't want to expend like 100 dollars on a dripping pump/machine.
Once again, thanks for the valuable advices and comments!
 
No need to break the bank on a small doser. All you need is a small plastic container w/lid, some rigid and flexible airline tubing, an an airline valve. The container only needs to be 1 Liter in size as you'll dilute ~5ml per Liter and dose that amount daily. Here was my setup.

SeaKlearDoser.jpg


Also, here's the SeaClear you want to pick up. You might find it locally as well, call around to some pool supply shops and see if they carry it. ;)

**DON'T use the Clarifier. Save that for your pool. :D

SeaKlearCR.jpg
 
Quick update...checked for PO4 today, after 1week in RO/DI water only (heater and powerhead on)..got 1.43. Removed rocks, dumped water, cleaned the container, made a batch of 35 gal o SW and putted the rocks back! Will get bacteria and seaKlear this weekend and plan for partial water change in 2 weeks!
Also in the meantime I tested the DT, sump and plumbing for leaking....nothing but I learned that the floor in the DT room is not evenly leveled ....so bad that the 2nd overflow is not flowing! Still have to figure that out!
So in the last week apart from the above I've also learned how to use PO4 checker and refractometer.
Soon I will order sand,powerheads and T5 fixture...I'm thinking about getting that one until I have budget for LEDs...!

I'm also planning in the next week to get a QT together and get a couple of clowns in quarantine so I can safely put them in the DT in one month from now!

Well that's it for now!
 
i like the bottom one the most, try to angle the rock in the top right though so it doesnt stick up so high, other than that, its my fav of the four.
 
No need to break the bank on a small doser. All you need is a small plastic container w/lid, some rigid and flexible airline tubing, an an airline valve. The container only needs to be 1 Liter in size as you'll dilute ~5ml per Liter and dose that amount daily. Here was my setup.

SeaKlearDoser.jpg


Also, here's the SeaClear you want to pick up. You might find it locally as well, call around to some pool supply shops and see if they carry it. ;)

**DON'T use the Clarifier. Save that for your pool. :D

SeaKlearCR.jpg


I'm starting to believe that high Phosphates from the Dry Rock I have may have caused of my Cayno outbreak. I wish I had done this before putting it into the display... but finally may have it under control.
 
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