Okay, what makes DSB's work best ?
1A >> EDUCATION ! ! This thread is a good place to start, but sources abound.
1B >> Understand the WHOLE SYSTEM CONCEPT ! ! There is no "MAGIC BULLET". No concepts or equipment need to be considered valid, only in "MUTUAL EXCLUSION" ! ! !
Determine what your system is going to be. There are many types.
Understand your "Whole System", including the sand bed, the auxillary systems, the equipment, and how they work together.
1C >> Use "GOOD EQUIPMENT" Research everything before you buy it ! That includes the tank, the lights, the substrate, the animals ESPECIALLY, the food, THE PUMPS, everything ! Buying "cheap" stuff is much more expensive in the long run.
Determine what the quality items are. Check around for the best price on the specific item, and CONFIRM the quality from the specific vendor.
Buy "big" ( the whole system ), IF you can afford it. Buy small enough, that you CAN afford ALL OF IT ! ! ! ( including the "upkeep" ) Calculate your initial and upkeep costs ahead of time. If this is a problem, start with a 55 gal. . They are "RELATIVELY" inexpensive, and large enough to be reasonably stable for water quality.
OKEY-DOKEY , The STANDARD MIXED REEF ! ?
There IS NO SUCH THING ! ! ! ! ! I'll take a shot at it anyway
2A >> Determine the animals you want to keep. Read a lot and discuss it with everyone, until you are comfortable.
2B >> Pick your size of tank, consider your auxillary equipment, where it goes, How you hook it up and service it.
2C >> Get ready to be PATIENT ! If you can't handle this part, STOP NOW, and set up a Carribean cruise or something. You don't need that "Aquarium Money" anyway !
If you have a lot of money, you can "read-up" while you relax. 
So what is a Standard Mixed Reef ? I don't know of any definition, so I'll offer one here, kind of "off the cuff".
Substrate of some kind, live rock, COMMUNITY fish ( for the most part ), Reef lighting, Softies-LPS, Sand animals, Maybe some SPS eventually( after you get the hang of it ). Auxillary equipment.
An "SPS DOMINATED" tank, IS NOT a "Standard Mixed Reef" tank. If this is your primary goal, you should at least take a serious look at "Bare Bottom Set-ups".
3A >> Pick your "Substrate System". ( you have to decide before you can proceed ) Your options:
--->> DSB of course, generally considered to be 4 or more inches of "Oolitic" sand. Some people like to be more specific about the exacting grain sizes, and possibly with some merit. I like 6" minimum for depth ( and longevity ), along with "some larger grain" at the top to avoid "storms. We can discuss this requirement forever I suppose, and probably will, for at least a long time.
--->> Standard Plenum, described in detail by Bob Goemans in his "little book" or "huge CDrom", as well as by Julian Sprung, and I don't have the reference for that at the moment. Both offer a similarly prescribed setup, that includes 4-5" of 2-4 mm gravel on top of the "plenum plumbing".
These are not difficult to set-up, but can only handle a "LIGHT BIO-LOAD", and "NO SAND SIFTERS ALLOWED", at least as described by Bob Goemans, and for this reason, I personally do not reccomend them. I believe the grain size, is "just too large".
--->> Wasting Plenum. This is my favorite of course, which I have made known very many times. I happen to believe that it is the best option, albeit probably not the "simplest", and it remains "experimental" at this point regardless. I have one in my 27 gal., but not "wasting" yet, and will have one in my 200 gal. set-up before long. Both are experiments, but at worst, I can just "not drain", and I'm running a nearly conventional sand bed anyway, so no harm done.
3B >> Lighting, Get this figured out now. Sure you can upgrade later, but what are you going to do with the original lighting, or the money you don't have any more? you have lots of options here, and MH is not necessary for the Standard Mixed Reef. Go investigate.
3C >> Live rock ( ROCK ). To some degree, how you proceed here is a matter of patience and "fortitude". Many options here.
--->>IF you want some very special shapes and caves, you may want or need to "MAKE YOUR OWN", at least for the special pieces. If so, START NOW. These rocks can require more "curing" than live rock, depending on their "make-up", and are often times used at or near the bottom. There is a lot of information here, at Garf.org, and elsewhere on the net.
--->> "Base rock" ( dead rock ). In most cases, with all the patience you now have, 70 to 80% of your rock can be base rock which is very much cheaper, and easier to cure than "live rock".
It still needs to be porous, and come from the ocean, not "mined" from "dry" deposits, as this "dry mined" rock is usually very high in Phosphates, and we need to start out right here, don't we ?
3D >> Aquascaping. This one is a "BIGGIE" I can't say enough here, This where you make or break the system, "right from the get-go", in my opinion.
--->> ALL ROCKS should be elevated above the sand by 1 to 2". This can be done creatively, to avoid the "floating in space" look.
--->> Also, the "big reef wall" to the back of the tank, has fallen out of favor recently, and so much the better. Keep flow spaces between your rocks, leave a lot of room for fish to swim, and keep a good amount of "beach" for your viewing pleasure, and the animals that "need-love" it ! ! ! Take a look at Npaden"s tank. His is a bit "severe" in this respect, but his tank runs very nicely as well ! !
3E >> Cure your rock. Fill your display tank at the same time, and add a small dose of "live sand" at the same time. You can get some from Inlandaquatics.com and various other commercial sources, as well as from your LFS, or better yet, your "buddies" tank. 5% of your total amount is plenty. Put one live rock in the tank, and the bacteria cultures will remain fed.
--->>There are many ways to do this. Do some research. My favorite method is to cure the rock in a large tub, with a power head, heater, and lights 24/7. this gets it done fast, and promotes the same kind of life in and on the rock, that will continue to be "happy" in your tank. ( Get 2 Seachem Ammonia detectors for $4.00 ea. Watch them for a while, what "fun" ! ! )
--->> It also allows you to find, capture, or trap certain hitchhikers, in your rock that you don't want. It further keeps unavoidable "build-ups" that are going to occur during "curing", in the tub, and out of your tank.
--->> Throw in plenty of crabs and snails. This would be about 1 snail per gallon. Get a wide variety of snails. For crabs, investigate, there is a lot of controversy about crabs. I would say about 1 crab for every 4 gallons, blue legged hermits, if you can't decide otherwise. These crabs and snails will mow down the algae that starts growing in very short order.
--->> If the crabs and snails are winning against the algae, then you are OK, else wise, change 50% of the water. Check the Ammonia detector.
3F >> Put your live rock in the display tank. After a couple of weeks or when the ammonia detector drops to "warning", you can start adding the rock to your tank. After the detector says "safe", you can add A fish ( or two ).
--->> Now it is time to watch for Nitrates to rise and fall. this is your continuing obligation, until Nitrates fall to a level that can support your animals. Most people consider < 5 ppm to be adequate for most animals, but not for SPS to be sure. At this point you need to start monitoring Phosphate, and this is where the fun REALLY BEGINS ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !
Yeah but what about all that "OTHER STUFF" ? You mean Kalkwasser and Calcium reactors, and refugiums( pod factories ) and turf scrubbers, and SKIMMERS, and heaters, and Phos reactors, and Nitrate reactors, and . . . . . . .
4A >> The "other stuff". OK.
--->> Heaters. Buy high quality heaters of course, and two of them at a minimum, regardless of the size of the tank. You did research didn't you ? ?
--->> SKIMMER. This is another "BIGGIE". ALMOST no one advocates running a reef tank without a skimmer anymore. Of course there are exceptions, but in a "Standard Mixed Reef" tank, I think not. Buy a VERY good appropriately sized skimmer.
--->> You will need to maintain Calcium and Alkalinity, I don't believe in hoping for "buffering" from the substrate, so, you've got additives, Kalkwasser, and Reactors. Research.
--->> Refugium. I believe that refugiums for "pod and critter" production are very helpful if you are keeping "sand animals". You can also grow some Chaeto, and/or various versions of macro algae, for Nitrate, and more importantly, Phosphate removal purposes. Just now, I prefer the Chaeto.
--->> The "turf scrubber" or "Algae tray" per PaulB can be valuable as well.
4B >> then there is the rest of "the stuff". Well, you are going to have to get back into the research, and apply that to how YOUR PARTICULAR TANK is "running". No "Magic Bullets" in this Hobby.
How is that for a starter? You mean I didn't mention High Flow, "Vodka Dosing" or something else?
How big a "buffer" do you think RC has for these "replies" any way? ? ?
Let's "chew on it" heh? ? >Barry :beachbum: :thumbsup: :wavehand: :hammer:
1A >> EDUCATION ! ! This thread is a good place to start, but sources abound.
1B >> Understand the WHOLE SYSTEM CONCEPT ! ! There is no "MAGIC BULLET". No concepts or equipment need to be considered valid, only in "MUTUAL EXCLUSION" ! ! !
Determine what your system is going to be. There are many types.
Understand your "Whole System", including the sand bed, the auxillary systems, the equipment, and how they work together.
1C >> Use "GOOD EQUIPMENT" Research everything before you buy it ! That includes the tank, the lights, the substrate, the animals ESPECIALLY, the food, THE PUMPS, everything ! Buying "cheap" stuff is much more expensive in the long run.
Determine what the quality items are. Check around for the best price on the specific item, and CONFIRM the quality from the specific vendor.
Buy "big" ( the whole system ), IF you can afford it. Buy small enough, that you CAN afford ALL OF IT ! ! ! ( including the "upkeep" ) Calculate your initial and upkeep costs ahead of time. If this is a problem, start with a 55 gal. . They are "RELATIVELY" inexpensive, and large enough to be reasonably stable for water quality.
OKEY-DOKEY , The STANDARD MIXED REEF ! ?
There IS NO SUCH THING ! ! ! ! ! I'll take a shot at it anyway
2A >> Determine the animals you want to keep. Read a lot and discuss it with everyone, until you are comfortable.
2B >> Pick your size of tank, consider your auxillary equipment, where it goes, How you hook it up and service it.
2C >> Get ready to be PATIENT ! If you can't handle this part, STOP NOW, and set up a Carribean cruise or something. You don't need that "Aquarium Money" anyway !
If you have a lot of money, you can "read-up" while you relax. So what is a Standard Mixed Reef ? I don't know of any definition, so I'll offer one here, kind of "off the cuff".
Substrate of some kind, live rock, COMMUNITY fish ( for the most part ), Reef lighting, Softies-LPS, Sand animals, Maybe some SPS eventually( after you get the hang of it ). Auxillary equipment.
An "SPS DOMINATED" tank, IS NOT a "Standard Mixed Reef" tank. If this is your primary goal, you should at least take a serious look at "Bare Bottom Set-ups".
3A >> Pick your "Substrate System". ( you have to decide before you can proceed ) Your options:
--->> DSB of course, generally considered to be 4 or more inches of "Oolitic" sand. Some people like to be more specific about the exacting grain sizes, and possibly with some merit. I like 6" minimum for depth ( and longevity ), along with "some larger grain" at the top to avoid "storms. We can discuss this requirement forever I suppose, and probably will, for at least a long time.
--->> Standard Plenum, described in detail by Bob Goemans in his "little book" or "huge CDrom", as well as by Julian Sprung, and I don't have the reference for that at the moment. Both offer a similarly prescribed setup, that includes 4-5" of 2-4 mm gravel on top of the "plenum plumbing".
These are not difficult to set-up, but can only handle a "LIGHT BIO-LOAD", and "NO SAND SIFTERS ALLOWED", at least as described by Bob Goemans, and for this reason, I personally do not reccomend them. I believe the grain size, is "just too large".
--->> Wasting Plenum. This is my favorite of course, which I have made known very many times. I happen to believe that it is the best option, albeit probably not the "simplest", and it remains "experimental" at this point regardless. I have one in my 27 gal., but not "wasting" yet, and will have one in my 200 gal. set-up before long. Both are experiments, but at worst, I can just "not drain", and I'm running a nearly conventional sand bed anyway, so no harm done.
3B >> Lighting, Get this figured out now. Sure you can upgrade later, but what are you going to do with the original lighting, or the money you don't have any more? you have lots of options here, and MH is not necessary for the Standard Mixed Reef. Go investigate.
3C >> Live rock ( ROCK ). To some degree, how you proceed here is a matter of patience and "fortitude". Many options here.
--->>IF you want some very special shapes and caves, you may want or need to "MAKE YOUR OWN", at least for the special pieces. If so, START NOW. These rocks can require more "curing" than live rock, depending on their "make-up", and are often times used at or near the bottom. There is a lot of information here, at Garf.org, and elsewhere on the net.
--->> "Base rock" ( dead rock ). In most cases, with all the patience you now have, 70 to 80% of your rock can be base rock which is very much cheaper, and easier to cure than "live rock".
It still needs to be porous, and come from the ocean, not "mined" from "dry" deposits, as this "dry mined" rock is usually very high in Phosphates, and we need to start out right here, don't we ?
3D >> Aquascaping. This one is a "BIGGIE" I can't say enough here, This where you make or break the system, "right from the get-go", in my opinion.
--->> ALL ROCKS should be elevated above the sand by 1 to 2". This can be done creatively, to avoid the "floating in space" look.
--->> Also, the "big reef wall" to the back of the tank, has fallen out of favor recently, and so much the better. Keep flow spaces between your rocks, leave a lot of room for fish to swim, and keep a good amount of "beach" for your viewing pleasure, and the animals that "need-love" it ! ! ! Take a look at Npaden"s tank. His is a bit "severe" in this respect, but his tank runs very nicely as well ! !
3E >> Cure your rock. Fill your display tank at the same time, and add a small dose of "live sand" at the same time. You can get some from Inlandaquatics.com and various other commercial sources, as well as from your LFS, or better yet, your "buddies" tank. 5% of your total amount is plenty. Put one live rock in the tank, and the bacteria cultures will remain fed.
--->>There are many ways to do this. Do some research. My favorite method is to cure the rock in a large tub, with a power head, heater, and lights 24/7. this gets it done fast, and promotes the same kind of life in and on the rock, that will continue to be "happy" in your tank. ( Get 2 Seachem Ammonia detectors for $4.00 ea. Watch them for a while, what "fun" ! ! )
--->> It also allows you to find, capture, or trap certain hitchhikers, in your rock that you don't want. It further keeps unavoidable "build-ups" that are going to occur during "curing", in the tub, and out of your tank.
--->> Throw in plenty of crabs and snails. This would be about 1 snail per gallon. Get a wide variety of snails. For crabs, investigate, there is a lot of controversy about crabs. I would say about 1 crab for every 4 gallons, blue legged hermits, if you can't decide otherwise. These crabs and snails will mow down the algae that starts growing in very short order.
--->> If the crabs and snails are winning against the algae, then you are OK, else wise, change 50% of the water. Check the Ammonia detector.
3F >> Put your live rock in the display tank. After a couple of weeks or when the ammonia detector drops to "warning", you can start adding the rock to your tank. After the detector says "safe", you can add A fish ( or two ).
--->> Now it is time to watch for Nitrates to rise and fall. this is your continuing obligation, until Nitrates fall to a level that can support your animals. Most people consider < 5 ppm to be adequate for most animals, but not for SPS to be sure. At this point you need to start monitoring Phosphate, and this is where the fun REALLY BEGINS ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !
Yeah but what about all that "OTHER STUFF" ? You mean Kalkwasser and Calcium reactors, and refugiums( pod factories ) and turf scrubbers, and SKIMMERS, and heaters, and Phos reactors, and Nitrate reactors, and . . . . . . .
4A >> The "other stuff". OK.
--->> Heaters. Buy high quality heaters of course, and two of them at a minimum, regardless of the size of the tank. You did research didn't you ? ?
--->> SKIMMER. This is another "BIGGIE". ALMOST no one advocates running a reef tank without a skimmer anymore. Of course there are exceptions, but in a "Standard Mixed Reef" tank, I think not. Buy a VERY good appropriately sized skimmer.
--->> You will need to maintain Calcium and Alkalinity, I don't believe in hoping for "buffering" from the substrate, so, you've got additives, Kalkwasser, and Reactors. Research.
--->> Refugium. I believe that refugiums for "pod and critter" production are very helpful if you are keeping "sand animals". You can also grow some Chaeto, and/or various versions of macro algae, for Nitrate, and more importantly, Phosphate removal purposes. Just now, I prefer the Chaeto.
--->> The "turf scrubber" or "Algae tray" per PaulB can be valuable as well.
4B >> then there is the rest of "the stuff". Well, you are going to have to get back into the research, and apply that to how YOUR PARTICULAR TANK is "running". No "Magic Bullets" in this Hobby.
How is that for a starter? You mean I didn't mention High Flow, "Vodka Dosing" or something else?
How big a "buffer" do you think RC has for these "replies" any way? ? ?
Let's "chew on it" heh? ? >Barry :beachbum: :thumbsup: :wavehand: :hammer:
Last edited:
