Dumb question re: overflow

lcs

It's Spring!!!!!!!
Is there any reason why I couldn't/shouldn't put a ball valve between my overflow and sump? I'm thinking I might want to control the flow to help control the noise. It will be draining in to a 7" filter sock.

I haven't even had a chance to play with it yet, but the question popped into my head.
 
The flow from the overflow to the sump should always be unrestricted. Never try to regulate flow or tank level with the overflow. Regulate flows and levels with a valve on the discharge side of the return pump if any adjustment is needed.
A valve on the overflow line might be installed for maintanance purposes but leave it 100% open or 100% closed never in between. A partially closed valve can trap crud and back up the display until it overflows.
 
I would not use a ball valve on a drain line to control flow. The best way to control flow is to use a ball valve between the return pump and the display tank. Slightly closing this valve will lower flow thru the system.

It's not a horrible idea to have a ball valve on the overflow outlet for an emergency. This would be the unlikely emergency of a overflow failure, But I would not use it as a flow control device.
 
I have a couple ball valves in the basement that I use to regulate my overflow water between sump/skimmer,reverse durso/filter sock,and my refugium.But if it was just one overflow I would probably run it unretricted.Although I must say if you get a fish in the overflow.It's always nice to be able to close off drain and remove the Mega Flow in a built in overflow.
No need to send Nemo down to the basement.
 
I installed one on my sump feed so I could turn it off for maintenance.

I recently re-did the feed using flexible tubing & I kept the ball valve. It was unreasonably loud because of the amount of air getting into the line so I closed it just a bit. Now it seems to have a complete siphon & is nearly silent.
 
Thanks so much for all the input!

It was unreasonably loud because of the amount of air getting into the line
That's what I was concerned about happening.

I'm planning on flexible tubing (for ease in making changes) for most of the drain and return. The standard PVC ball valve could handle the pressure should I need to isolate the DT from the sump? I like the idea of being able to do that. Too bad they don't make 1" quick disconnects.

I'm hoping to get the overflow sometime soon so I can try all this stuff out!
 
A properly functioning overflow should not be loud. Throttling the flow with a valve is courting disaster. Adjust the air intake with a piece of airline tubing or a small valve but don't restrict the overflow. Once stuff catches on the lip of a valve disc or seat it builds up fast and chances are you will not be home at the time so a flood is inevitable.
 
How do you judge what return you need for the overflow you have?
Say for example I have a 29g tank and want an overflow.
Should i get an overflow that is rated for 300, 500, 1000, 1500 gph (does the rating matter much?
How do i decide how powerful of a return pump?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13455705#post13455705 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by lcs
The standard PVC ball valve could handle the pressure should I need to isolate the DT from the sump? I like the idea of being able to do that.

Yes. It can handle the pressure.

How do you judge what return you need for the overflow you have?
Say for example I have a 29g tank and want an overflow.
Should i get an overflow that is rated for 300, 500, 1000, 1500 gph (does the rating matter much?
How do i decide how powerful of a return pump?

-You want a return pump that has roughly the same rate of return with head loss as your overflow. If the flow of the return pump is too low an overflow could loose it's siphon. If you get one that can return water faster than your overflow can drain you'll have to throttle it back by using a ball valve or another way to reduce the flow of the return line so you don't flood your tank.

-I think the rule of thumb is 10-20x of turnover per hour. 20x or more for an SPS dominated tank. For a 29g at 20x/hr that's 580 gallon/hr turnover. 580- rate of power heads = Amount of water still needing to be moved. So if you have a powerhead that moves 300gph you need to move another 280 gallons of water.
 
I have an Eshopps 300g. Only complaint is that the nylon adjusting screw can be irritating. If I move it around & then try to tighten the wing nut the whole screw wants to turn.

I had my sump off for 2 days because of a plumbing issue. Last night around 6AM I was woken up by the sound of rushing water. Turns out the siphon finally broke. After 6 months of use the siphon has broken once, & that was after 2 days of no water moving through it.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13456534#post13456534 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by blcketnies11
Will the eshoppes start back up on their own if the the power goes out?

Yes,

Water will contunue to stay in the U tube until flow returns again.
Most problems occur because of return pumps that are not strong enough to wash bubble out that will accumulate in the U tube.
 
I have a Quiet One 3000 (780 gph) on my Eshopps 300. And yes, I have to close the ball valve slightly. I owned a Eshopps 300 on a previous tank as well - and I ran a Quiet One 2200 (580 gph). So I would assume a Mag 5 would work just fine.

The Eshopps won't lose siphon - it's a well built overflow. Of course, I never say never.

Back to the original question - I have put a ball valve on my drain. I agree that you should NOT use it to restrict flow. However, mine is ONLY for the purpose of maintinace below. If I want to shut it down for a moment - I just close the ball valve and work on the sump - then open it back up.
 
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