Photo_John
New member
you dont want to run all that water through your fuge. Keep the turn over slow through your fuge so the macros can do their job (if its just a sump dont worry about flow though it).
Dumb question re: overflow
- Thread starter lcs
- Start date
you dont want to run all that water through your fuge. Keep the turn over slow through your fuge so the macros can do their job (if its just a sump dont worry about flow though it).
Everyones Hero
New member
I hear that you need high flow for the skimmer, low flow for the fuge... Everyone has their own way of doing things.
When I have an opportunity I'll build a high flow sump with a low-flow fuge.
lcs
It's Spring!!!!!!!
Great info guys! Thanks again!
I found a couple other sources for the Eshopps, but not many. Right now DFS has the best price cause they’re on sale.
I plan on having a fuge in my sump â€"œ middle section. Is the best way to reduce the flow through the fuge by adding baffles? Right now there are only two baffles â€"œ one for the box holding the filter sock and a very short one, with holes in it, to basically create a pump section. I bought this setup used from CL and I’d like to reconfigure. How much of a PITA is it to remove siliconed in acrylic?
I have a 56g tank and a 20g sump with a Mag 7 for the return. Based on what you said above I should go with the 800?
I found a couple other sources for the Eshopps, but not many. Right now DFS has the best price cause they’re on sale.
I plan on having a fuge in my sump â€"œ middle section. Is the best way to reduce the flow through the fuge by adding baffles? Right now there are only two baffles â€"œ one for the box holding the filter sock and a very short one, with holes in it, to basically create a pump section. I bought this setup used from CL and I’d like to reconfigure. How much of a PITA is it to remove siliconed in acrylic?
Everyones Hero
New member
Depends on if you have a sump or sump w/ fuge.
If it's just a sump I'd go to a bigger overflow (whatever the next biggest above the Eshopps 300 is.) If it's a sump w/ fuge I'd get the 300 & a Mag 5 or 6 depending on how far up the water has to go.
I've actually got a weird system for reducing the amount of water going back to the display. I use a PVC T. One side connects to the return pump, one leads to the display, & the 3rd leads back to the sump.
On the one leading to the sump I have a ball valve that I can open up just a bit to prevent too much water going back to the display. It allows me to control the flow back to the display without having to put unnecessary back pressure on the return pump.
Here's a pic:
If it's just a sump I'd go to a bigger overflow (whatever the next biggest above the Eshopps 300 is.) If it's a sump w/ fuge I'd get the 300 & a Mag 5 or 6 depending on how far up the water has to go.
I've actually got a weird system for reducing the amount of water going back to the display. I use a PVC T. One side connects to the return pump, one leads to the display, & the 3rd leads back to the sump.
On the one leading to the sump I have a ball valve that I can open up just a bit to prevent too much water going back to the display. It allows me to control the flow back to the display without having to put unnecessary back pressure on the return pump.
Here's a pic:
AZDesertRat
In Memoriam
By teeing and valving the return that way you are actually drawing more power and creating more heat than just valving the discharge flow to the return. Centrifugal pumps only use the power necessary to perform the work required of them, reduce the flow you reduce the watts consumed. By returning it ti the sump you are making the pump work harder since it is pumping more water (both what is going up to the display and what is going back to the sump) so it draws higher wattage and produces more heat.
This is a commonly mistaken notion and you are by no means the first to do this. If you can get your hands on a Kill A Watt meter you will see what I am talking about. Shut the valve back to the sump off and squeeze the return flow valve down to where you want it and the power condumption will go down.
This is a commonly mistaken notion and you are by no means the first to do this. If you can get your hands on a Kill A Watt meter you will see what I am talking about. Shut the valve back to the sump off and squeeze the return flow valve down to where you want it and the power condumption will go down.
Everyones Hero
New member
Wow, thanks for that post. I had done that because I heard that reducing the flow from the pump would cause the pump to burn out.
EnglishRebel
Retired Rebel Reefer
I read on a TOTM that the owner used two overflows each with a ball valve. He set the one overflow at a low level in the overflow box and one at a high level (no Dursos). He throttled back the lower overflow with a ball valve until the water level in the box rose up to the high level overflow. This method eliminated the gurgling in the overflow box because most of the return water went down the lower overflow and the rest down the higher one.
Check the post here
www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=859730
Comments?
Alan
Check the post here
www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=859730
Comments?
Alan
Last edited:
Everyones Hero
New member
I like that idea. I think it's similar to something Bean Animal or Melev did. They used 3 standpipes: One that was a full siphon, one that took in only a little water to prevent gurgling, & a 3rd as a safety backup.
blcketnies11
New member
I know the best setup would be a Eshopps 300 w/ a Mag 5 pump
But would this work?
Eshopps 800 w/ a Mag 5 pump?
Won't the pump determine how much water the overflow gets? Or would this not work?
But would this work?
Eshopps 800 w/ a Mag 5 pump?
Won't the pump determine how much water the overflow gets? Or would this not work?
blcketnies11
New member
Also would converting the Eshopps 800 1' bulk head to a 3/4' pvc pipe restrict the flow to 300-400 ish like the Eshopps 300.
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