Dwarf seahorse sump/refugium?

[NeveSSL]

Hi all,

I'm considering setting up a dwarf seahorse tank. I think it would be great if I had a refugium/sump on the system for obvious reasons. However, I am wondering if this is going to be hindered by low flow I would need to do on the return pump since their so small.

Any thoughts?

As-is, I'm thinking just a rubbermaid refugium powered with a little Eheim I have. I may use an acrylic tank and just cutting a wide overflow into it with a sponge the entire length. This would make for a good filter to catch excess food. Also, the wider it is, the flow shouldn't be as strong around it.

Any thoughts are much appreciated.

Brandon

 

[namxas]

You'll never even see the zots in a rubbermaid tub (they're only about 1.5" and pretty lazy as far as SH go). They require live food (usually Live BBS) daily (don't count on a fuge being able to sustain them, as they'll starve).

IMHO, your best bet would be to set up a dedicated 10 gal with a HOB filter and keep about 20 zots in it.

I don't recommend SH as an "afterthought" as their requirements (temp, flow, food, tankmates) really should be met for best results.

 

[NeveSSL]

Hi Greg,

Thanks for the reply. I am well aware of DSH's basic needs and I'm delving into some various options. I understand a refugium of any typical size would never sustain the little guys and I'm planning on gut loaded artemia for feeding, I'm just curious about a refugium to increase water volume and possible provide a little bit of food for them. And to have on a reverse light cycle to help with pH.

Also, I should have mentioned I'm planning on a 5g display with the rubbermaid only as a refugium/sump.

Thanks again,

Brandon

 

[namxas]

Ahhhh...I see. Lots of folks ask about keeping zots (and even larger SH species) in what they hope to be "self-sustaining" setups, so I wanted to clear that up.

 

[NeveSSL]

Thanks, man. I should have clarified a bit better.

Do you have any thoughts on how to safely implement a refugium?

It may ultimately not be worth it. I don't think I'd want to run a skimmer on this system and it would increase the size of the water changes I'd need to do due to the added volume. Hmmm... lots to consider.

Brandon

 

[con999]

well i think the chance of long term survial in this plan is very low. horses need a low temp like 70 low. all the conditions just dont match up also with all thats bacteria build up in ur DT its just not worth it

 

[Franco724]

Not only is a temperature an issue, another thing to worry about is hydroids. Most reef set ups are bound to have them and with artemia feeding they will multiply. A single incident between a young horse and a hydroid could be lethal. It is best to set them up in their own dedicated system, treated with panacur (a dog dewormer) to rid of any harmful critters.

 

[NeveSSL]

Ok, did you guys read my post at all, or did you assume that I want to keep dwarfs in a refugium?

Please read the post and see what the actual question is. Thanks.

Brandon

 

[namxas]

The issue with zots in "non-sterile" setups as mentioned is hydroids. There are a couple of ways around this:

1. Find a source for LR and macro that has been started in sterile systems (hard to do).

2. Start your own LR from sterilized dead base rock (use a pressure cooker). Don't LOL, peeps actually do this.

3. Zap your completed system with Panacur (fenbendazole):

FENBENDAZOLE (liquid) Dosage and Preparation Instructions for Hydroids
Active Ingredient: 10% Fenbendazole suspension
Indication: hydroids
Brand Names: Panacur, Safe-Guard
Note: This treatment is ONLY recommended for Seahorse fry nurseries and Dwarf Seahorse tanks that
do NOT contain invertebrates/corals. (Nassarius sp. snails have been known to survive treatment).
Residual effects of this medication may make the tank inhospitable for invertebrates for up to two years
following treatment.
Dose 1mg per gallon (0.1 ml per 10 gal) for light infestations.
Dose 2mg per gallon (0.2 ml per 10 gal) for heavy infestations.
Repeat every other day for three treatments.

Note: if you can only find the crystal form, LMK and I can give you the dosage.

Once your system has been dosed or otherwise set up as a sterile tank, make sure that this tank has all its own equipment, as even a single drop of tankwater from another system can be enuff to seed the tank with 'droids.

HTH

 

[NeveSSL]

Kind of random (???) but good info none the less, I suppose.

Does anyone have ANY ideas on adding a sump/refugium to a DSH tank? That's pretty much my only question for now.

Brandon

 

[rayjay]

Kind of random (???) but good info none the less, I suppose.
Does anyone have ANY ideas on adding a sump/refugium to a DSH tank? That's pretty much my only question for now.
Brandon

I don't understand the "random" or "I suppose" comments. You have been advised by one of the most knowledgeable people in seahorse keeping.
As for meaningful ideas on adding a sump/refugium to a DSH tank, beyond what Greg has already mentioned, you will be hard pressed to find any based on actual successful set ups, as it has seldom been done.
Under normal set ups for salt water I agree with the "more volume" concept and use it for all my tanks, but with the complexities of keeping dwarfs, I, like most hobbyists, can't see getting into a more complex set up as the size tank concerned is reasonably managed without it as long as stocking density is reasonable.
For the more complex set up, feeding can be a problem unless you are prepared to shut down any flow between sections so the food remains in the DT until eaten and excess food is removed.
If there are people out there with successful dwarf tanks connected to sump/refugium, you would be best to query on the Dwarf forum on the "org" where many more dwarf keepers can respond.
However, while I haven't done it, your original idea of a wide overflow could possibly work if you really want to go ahead with it, with the slots covered by screen material and being sure that the return flow isn't too great. It would however, require cleaning out the sponge in the overflow after each feeding to lessen the chance of bacterial problems arising.
Another low flow tank exchange I've used when the levels of each tank/container are similar is by air in an uplift tube plumbed from one to the other, but it does promote more salt creep.

 

[namxas]

Kind of random (???) but good info none the less, I suppose.

Does anyone have ANY ideas on adding a sump/refugium to a DSH tank? That's pretty much my only question for now.

Brandon

Adding a fuge to a tank, is simple mechanics, so I didn't get into that since you seem to be a reefer. I was pointing out what you'd need to do/what the likely problems of adding a fuge to a zot setup would be. If I'm mistaken, and you have no idea how to set up a sump/fuge, that's another story, and you should make you level of experience in the hobby more clear.

 

[NeveSSL]

You are correct. My question was not clear.

Lets clear it up: How would you do the overflow and general flow to/from the sump/refugium so that it would not harm the DSHs?

Brandon

 

[frogmaster421]

wow tough crowd i set mine up with a fuge and its great i just got a hob and used low flow

 

[rayjay]

WOW! Thread resurrected after close to 2 yrs.
Just curious as to how come you posted now since you've been a member for much longer?