Ebay MH bulbs

Received two 250 watt, SE 14,000 K Plusrite lamps today and have fired one up along with an existing XM 10,000 K that I have from a previous owner. I have no idea of the age of the XM, but the one in there now is the better of the two XMs I have been running. It was putting out a whiter, brighter light than the XM which I've now replaced with the Plusrite.

After running for about 5 minutes, I can see a significant color difference between the new Plusrite 14 and the used XM 10. Plusrite is more blue, which seems to validate the color temperature rating. I think once I replace the other XM with the Plusrite, I won't require any Actinic supplementation for my particular preference in overall color. I don't have a PAR meter, but using an old Gossen Sixtino 2 photographic light meter, I've found that the XM is producing a greater deflection on the meter with the diffuser covering the meter sensor. Again, this is likely normal with the difference in color temperature of the two lamps. Without the diffuser covering the light meter sensor, the readings are very close to the same. Not sure of the significance there but the meter instructions say to retract the diffuser when measuring reflected light (measure from the camera to the 'object') and to use the diffuser for measuring the 'scene' (measure from the object to be photographed to the camera). At any rate, if there's a way to convert the light meter reading to PAR or some other useful information, here are the light meter numbers for the XM lamp using the diffuser on the light meter:

ASA/DIN = 400/27
f/ vs time = 22 @ just under 60, or 16 @ just under 125, or 11 @ just under 250 and so on up to 5.6 @ just under 1000

Other info.... using a UPM Marketing EM100 Energy Monitor (similar to a Kill A Watt), I see that the two lamps are using around 450 watts with my M58 magnetic ballasts. This is similar to the readings I've seen using both XM lamps, so no significant difference there. The Plusrite lamp is physically shorter than the XM, both the screw in base and the the outer glass envelope. The base of the Plusrite has a number of slots punched into into it around the circumference but has no solder blob between the base and the glass like the XM lamp has. This may explain the absence of the discoloration on the inside lower part of the outer glass envelope. I think this happens on inital burn in to eliminate all air inside the lamp, not sure, perhaps Plusrite has a cleaner method of doing this without the solder blob. Plusrite logo and data are marked on the outer glass envelope. The inner assembly looks to be of comparable quality compared to the XM, but is a little shorter overall due to the shorter length of the Plusrite.

Seems like a good deal so far, time will tell. Later dudes & dudettes.
 
I posted a request for Sanjay to test the Plusrites. I didn't get a reply from him, or anyone else. I'll bump it and maybe if enough people reply, he'll do it.

He normally only tests 400 watt from what I remember....that is what he uses....:dance: I use them only also....:bounce3:
 
I have a question about the ebay mh bulbs:
I noticed some of them say FC2 or FC3 for the base type. What does that mean?

I have an Aqua Medic Ocean Light 1 X 250 Watt HQI Lighting System coming and I need a bulb for it. I'm not sure if I bid on the right one or not...

does anyone have a recommendation?
 
Those readings that Amoore got look very similar to Melevsreef's readings minus that closer to the top of the tank. Even under the light in the middle area of the tank Amoore didn't see as much of a jump in par as I personally would have expected. Otherwise it looks pretty spot on.
 
I just caught this thread out of the corner of my eye. Since the title is generic, I thought I'd add this thread. This was done by someone here locally in Columbus.

I own 3 250w 14k Artemis bulbs myself and have been using it for 1 month. PAR is nearly as good as Reeflux 20k but not quite. But for the price...

http://www.corareef.org/forum/showthread.php?t=7360&highlight=artemis

I did recently lose one bulb. Just stopped firing. Emailed the company and they have a new bulb on the way for me.
 
I got my new Artemis replacement 250w SE 14k bulb. Boy I didn't realize how purple it was brand new. Sitting in betwen 2 other Artemis bulbs with a month of burn, it's noticeably purple while the 1 month old bulbs are more blue.

I suspect all three will look the same in 1 month.
 
Anything new on the 150 DE 14K bulbs?
I need to buy 2 new MH, I just don't have the $$$ to spend more right now.
 
I am looking to replace my bulbs soon I am in need of info from anyone that has been running them for some time, how are they looking after the break in, any problem with them just stop running? thanks
 
I am looking to replace my bulbs soon I am in need of info from anyone that has been running them for some time, how are they looking after the break in, any problem with them just stop running? thanks

I've been running 4x 250w SE 10,000K and 8x 175w SE 10,000K for close to a month (actually, now that I think about it, today is the 31st, so exactly one month). No problems to report so far, and the color has stayed constant (no noticeable color shifts).

My corals are loving it so far; coloration and growth rates are both excellent. I took PAR readings when I first fired them (see pg. 4 of this thread), and the PAR output was more than adequate.

I sent in my PAR meter for re-calibration because I had some doubts about its accuracy. It turned out that my meter was accurate, but apogee cleaned and re-calibrated it at no charge. I was supposed to be getting it back this week, but it hasn't arrived yet - hopefully I'll have it by early next week and I'll post some updated readings when I do.

On a side note, I'm thinking of ordering a few 14,000K bulbs soon. Even though coral growth and coloration with the 10,000K bulbs are good, I just miss the aesthetics that 14,000K bulbs gave my tanks.
 
The two Plusrite 250W 14,000K bulbs I installed now have several weeks of use on them, so should be 'burned' in. Definitely less intense than the XM 10,000Ks they replaced and I suppose I'm getting accustomed to the bluer look. The lower intensity seems to be validated by the fact that the two 250 watt bulbs are only showing a 400 watt draw on the energy monitor. When I initially installed them, they were at 450 watts and the XMs were around 485 watts. I run the MH lamps for about 4 hours and use 4x54 watt T5HO for the remainder of the photo period.
 
thanks I was thinking of ordering the 14K bulbs my self. Are the 10k white or do they have a yellow tint?

The 10,000K bulbs are white, no noticeable yellow tint. Like I said, they're great bulbs, but I miss the crisp white/blue that the 14,000K produces.
 
How "blue" are the 250w DE 20k's? Windex blue? Or more subtle? I can't decide between 14k's or 20k's. I do wan't a more blueish deep ocean look.
 
I have three PFO 250w HQI pendants. Two are running off a PFO Dual ballast and one is running off a Vertex ballast. I am not sure how 2x20k's and 1x14k would look as it is a 220g and 31" tall. I just set the tank up last week after transferring all my stuff out of a few smaller tanks so I have never used MH on the tank before now.
 
I have three PFO 250w HQI pendants. Two are running off a PFO Dual ballast and one is running off a Vertex ballast. I am not sure how 2x20k's and 1x14k would look as it is a 220g and 31" tall. I just set the tank up last week after transferring all my stuff out of a few smaller tanks so I have never used MH on the tank before now.

I think you and I are looking for the same thing. I just set up my 125 two weeks ago.
Newfugeandintake011.jpg


I have never used MHs as you can tell, I still have my 4x110w VHOs running on my 125. GHETTO!

I know I want 3 MHs, and I am leaning toward plusrite HQI 14k's. I would probably order all three of the same and then if I don't like the color, I would then order 3 20k's. This way I could mix and match.
 
Back
Top