My advice, do not use any additives at all until you know what you are doing.
Prime masks an issue, that being ammonia. It is akin to making your dog wear a gas mask because there is carbon dioxide in the dog house. It is much better to not have the problem (ammonia) than try and deal with it.
The rules are:
Always use RoDi Water for all additions.
Make saltwater up the day before use and circulate it well prior to use.
Match saltwater temp and SG to the tank.
Always top up the tank to a known level before you do a water change. This will prevent you slowly increasing the salt levels.
Do regular water changes.
The less filters you have, the more water changes are required. (filters- REAL live rock, not limestone rock or other non-reef derived rock, protein skimmer, deep sand bed, algal scrubber, etc...)
Once your tank has cycled, begin to concentrate on Alk, Cal and Mag.
I recommend salifert test kits.
Once you can do a test, the rest is easy.
Test FIRST for Magnesium.
Supplement the tank as appropriate to brig the Mag to 1330-1350 ppm.
I use Epsom Salts. Magnesium Sulphate.
Let the tank circulate for several hours and then Test for Alk.
Alk should be about 9dKH.
Supplement as appropriate with Baking Soda.
Let circulate for several hours.
Test For Calcium, should be about 450ppm.
Supplement with your choice of additive.
I use Dow Flake which is a road de-icer made of Calcium Chloride.
Test every week the day after doing a water change.
And thats about it.
pH is a natural function of the chemicals in the water. If your pH is off, its due to an environmental issue and should be corrected by finding the problem, not adding an additive.
pH is affected by lack of water flow, lack of surface flow, decaying matter, gunk on filters, algae around the tank top, algae exposed in the back of athe tank as water levels fluctuate. Lack of good air in the room.
Go through these and see what happens to the pH over a day or so.
To see if this is an issue, take some tank water and look at pH. Place in a large container and shake it well, reread pH. if it vaies then something is affecting the water.
ALWAYS try to deal with what is causing a problem than masking...unless you like the look of gasmasks.
--- A lot to digest, but these simple tips will get you going and keep you there.
I have set up dozens of tanks and this is the approach I always use.
At the March meeting we will begin a seminar series to teach basic water chemistry and parameters.
Ed Brookshire will speak for 30 mins on why you need to use RoDi water for all additions.
After that I will speak on basic water chmeistry, testing, using the simple supplements I listed and how to calculate what you need.
April we will endeavor to look deeper at filtration and water flow.
Regards,
Paul.
When I added a few new pieces of live rock to my display I thought nothing of it . Wham hit with a new cycle all over again and ICK . Your tank is way to young to add an anenome . You must wait atleast 6 months to a year before thinking about adding such a delicatly awesome addition. Even experienced reefers lose anenomes , they need pristine water conditions and I would suggest a bubble-tip to learn on . These are the most forgiving and easiest anenomes to raise..... You also need a seeded sponge filter that has been in the display for atleast 2 months to establish your hospital tank. Or an extra colonized hang on filter with ceramic media. If not you have to test water in Quarrantine tank daily and do massive water changes. Good Luck and be patient!!!!!!!
