Hi,
Currently I have this simple looking, plastic valve that taps into the input line of cold water under my bathroom sink: https://reverseosmosis.com/products...MIxYv08pvV2AIVhbfACh2eTwW0EAQYASABEgJdxfD_BwE
I'm worried about future leaks, especially as the valve get's more stiff to turn it. I was thinking about
1) keeping it open always, and then putting a valve right after quick fitting. And having that actually control water to the RO DI. BUt before the line hits this valve I would have the line go to my leak on floor auto shut valve. From there it would go to valve two (gate or ball valve I guess you call it), leading to the RO DI. I'd have it this way because if that first valve (the T) is always oopen I feel it's less likely for it to fail b/c of too many foreful turns of the knob. The leak would more likely happen at the second valve, which I can stop flow to automatticaly with the water alarm shut off. (There's no way to shut off the water leading INTO the first valve with this alarm b/c that line is not a 1/4 plastic line, it's the metal main line.)
2) Using this as the tap valve:
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/mur-lok-ez-faucet-adapter-kit.html
3) Ideally I would have a quick release valve from the faucet out put itself (at the sink) but my faucet out put hole/threads are too narrow. I get a headache when I think about how to get adapaters to get the faucet threads to fit any quick release threads, unless someone can offer advice on that. I can post pics of the out put of that faucet, maybe someone has the same thing and is using a quick release like I really want to. I want to do that because that I feel is the leak safest way to go.
Thanks for any input.
Currently I have this simple looking, plastic valve that taps into the input line of cold water under my bathroom sink: https://reverseosmosis.com/products...MIxYv08pvV2AIVhbfACh2eTwW0EAQYASABEgJdxfD_BwE
I'm worried about future leaks, especially as the valve get's more stiff to turn it. I was thinking about
1) keeping it open always, and then putting a valve right after quick fitting. And having that actually control water to the RO DI. BUt before the line hits this valve I would have the line go to my leak on floor auto shut valve. From there it would go to valve two (gate or ball valve I guess you call it), leading to the RO DI. I'd have it this way because if that first valve (the T) is always oopen I feel it's less likely for it to fail b/c of too many foreful turns of the knob. The leak would more likely happen at the second valve, which I can stop flow to automatticaly with the water alarm shut off. (There's no way to shut off the water leading INTO the first valve with this alarm b/c that line is not a 1/4 plastic line, it's the metal main line.)
2) Using this as the tap valve:
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/mur-lok-ez-faucet-adapter-kit.html
3) Ideally I would have a quick release valve from the faucet out put itself (at the sink) but my faucet out put hole/threads are too narrow. I get a headache when I think about how to get adapaters to get the faucet threads to fit any quick release threads, unless someone can offer advice on that. I can post pics of the out put of that faucet, maybe someone has the same thing and is using a quick release like I really want to. I want to do that because that I feel is the leak safest way to go.
Thanks for any input.